0/20 spec really?

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Originally Posted By: Tech819
Originally Posted By: dblshock
I'd think it may benefit from the higher film strength


This is where the problem is. I'd think


YEP. Durrr my uninformed opinion is worth more than millions of $$ in r&d.
 
is there a down side to a 5/30? I can't think of any other than efficiency.
 
Originally Posted By: dblshock
beyond a small 0/20 efficiency advantage I cant see paying a premium for this Honda/CAFE driven spec for the new 1.5T engine, fact I'd think it may benefit from the higher film strength of say a 5/30 or at worst a 5/20? agreed, long as it's full synthetic...is there any support for this sort of thinking?


You'll notice the difference at 400,000 miles.....maybe
 
Originally Posted By: dblshock
is there a down side to a 5/30? I can't think of any other than efficiency.


Initial start up wear.....
 
I can't think of a down side to 5w30 vs 0w20 unless its colder than -30C outside.
To me, the 5w40 Delvac you use in the Highlander is as good as it gets.
But then again, I'm not a thin oil fanboi either.
 
Originally Posted By: dblshock
do the 5/30 oils protect better than 0/20 oils apples to apples? can that be said?


No. it is up to the engine design. I have always found that the manufacturer's recommendation works in a mechanically sound engine.
 
M1 0-20 has performed very well in my 2.0 and 2.3 Duratech engines. This weekend I will be driving to Florida for the 20th time in my Fusion and I have 6K on this oil change. By the time I get back it will have 9K. Also I have one trip to Maine, all on M1 0-20AFE. Fsskier, a member here used M1 0-20 in his Escort and logged 300K at 20K OCIs, and his engine performed well when sold. I use 0-20 for the great cold starts(less wear), clean engines, and no signs of engine wear to date, and all at 10K OCIs!!!!
 
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
It's always good to find out what the oil spec is for the same car in other countries, such as Australia.


How is that relevant unless ur driving it in Australia?
 
Change on schedule and treat your car with care (no high rev's / loads when cold) and you should have no problems. Honda makes some of the worlds most reliable engines, they wouldn't recommend an oil that would damage engines and in turn damage their reliability.
 
I have the same engine in my 16 Civic. When it comes to cold start up in the winter months 0w-20 is a great choice, you will get more wear starting your engine up in cold temps than you will driving 80 mph down the highway in summer. I've take a couple highway trips at 75 mph thus far and the engine is working pretty easy at that speed.

After many years of 20 weight oils in the North American market can anyone put to higher rates of engine failures or wear because of the change in oil weights ? Myself I am not seeing or hearing about higher rates of engine failures since 20 weight oils were introduced.

The only concern I had with my engine was related to fuel dilution with it being direct injection, but I have not tested the oil to see if this engine has dilution issues.
 
0w20 for track? From M1,PUP 0w20, or Redline probably. Looking at M1 website,R18's have 0w20 or 0w30 recommended. Change it before you track and maybe after.If you are going to run this car hard,consider changing oil and filter every 5k tops.You got a nice car,oil is cheap compared to engines.I got the 15 Civic SE 1,8L and have run 0w20 and its been trouble free. Changed FF at 6000, took one free 0w20 Honda Synblend 0w20 freebie and then used my last two freebies and brought 0w20 Full Synthetic.
 
Originally Posted By: dblshock
would 0/20 be appropriate to take this to a track with?


Your are going to track this little engine?
 
Sounds to me like you've already made up your mind and are just looking for reaffirmation from other members. Do as you wish. I'd stick with the 0w20.
 
If it calls for 0w20 why would you use something else? Some of these engines wear best on low viscosity oil believe it or not they can really benefit from that very fast oil flow at start up... Years ago when engines were not built with such precision the thicker stuff was in.. I remember when i was a kid in my families engine shop in the 70's 10w40 and even strait 30 in some was very common.. I remember when the 5w30 was recommended in the early to mid 80's we all thought that was too thin also. Then when 5w20 came out same thing. But now most engines last longer than ever. now there is 0w20 and maybe soon a 0w10..

I have heard at an engine seminar that some of the race cars use a 10 weight for added HP
 
Originally Posted By: JS2000
After many years of 20 weight oils in the North American market can anyone put to higher rates of engine failures or wear because of the change in oil weights ? Myself I am not seeing or hearing about higher rates of engine failures since 20 weight oils were introduced.

Ford went back to 5w-30 after decades of recommending 5w-20 in the modular engines in the Super Duty trucks and vans last year. Higher wear in certain high-mileage conditions were cited as the reason for the change. Since these trucks aren't rated by the EPA they can make the change without repercussions. Ford also specs a 30 in truck ecoboost engines and a 50 in certain 5.0 apps.
 
0w20 works fine in engines designed to run it, put it in an engine that was not designed for it like the UOA from a Turboed Miata i saw had about 250ppm of lead in it and lots of iron...
However if i had a car speccing 0w20 i'd be very tempted to run a 0w30
 
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