Numbers matching

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What does this phrase mean?

Is it when the casting (or forging) (or placards) on the engine, frame and transmission all have the same numerals?


Does the engine have two sets? One for the heads and one for the block?



Where can a fellow find these numbers on his car to see if it is all original?
 
If I'm correct, I think it means everything that came from the factory is still there, even if rebuilt. It's not a new engine mated to the original transmission, etc.
 
All original parts.and those parts have numbers stamped on them at the factory and are on the build sheet. Makes a muscle car more valuable.

Some people will go to great lengths to restamp replacement parts in order to make a car more valuable.
 
It's losing it's prestige as the older generation dies off. Doesn't mean a thing on a 1980 Corvette that came with a 305.
 
In simplistic terms, it means "the chassis, engine, and transmission are all the ones that came together from the factory." In practice the actual "proof" varies a bit between manufacturers and even over time with the same manufacturer.

In specific terms, say for my 1969 Coronet R/T, the full vehicle VIN is stamped on the placard that is riveted to the dash. The VIN is also stamped in 2 other locations into the metal of the chassis itself- the radiator core support, and under the weatherstripping of the trunk lip. Having all of those together and the same (without tampered rivets on the dash placard) makes the full chassis "numbers matching." Having replaced suspension components, brakes, etc. doesn't matter because those aren't uniquely identified to the car in the first place.

The engine has a PARTIAL copy of the VIN stamped on the block just above the oil pan rail, and so does the transmission. Those partial VINs match the 3 VINs on the chassis, so the complete vehicle is "numbers matching."

It is also preferred if the fendertag under the hood matches the VIN, all the options it shows match the actual vehicle, and best of all if a matching paper "build sheet" was found in the car (my build sheet was long gone, for that car, although I have it for my '66.) The "build sheet" was used by workers as the car passed down the line and they installed various equipment that it called out. It wasn't ever required to stay with the car, but it was common practice to stuff it between the springs and foam of the rear seat at the end of the line (at least for Chrysler products).

It is different for years when there were different numbers of VIN stampings and different stamping locations. Other manufacturers differ as well.

Usually there's some leeway granted in special cases, or at least there used to be in the collector car community. For example, an engine that was a factory dealer replacement would have a special tag identifying it as a warranty engine, but no VIN matching the car. All in all, the whole "numbers matching" thing seems to matter a lot less than it did 20 years ago.
 
I traded in a 4Runner once where a shopping basket hit the passengers side front fender and made a pretty big dent in it. They replaced the whole fender. I traded in that car and the used car appraiser at the dealership noticed the number missing and asked about it. After I explained the damage was superficial they gave me what the car was worth for trade it.
 
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
What car are you trying to de-code?



2003 Chevrolet 6.0 NV4500 3.73 G80 Silverado.


I just think it would be kind of neat to see the same stamping sequence in more than one place. My passenger side head has a three digit number, but the driver's side looks like different markings. I have a printout from the dealer on my truck. It is not quite a build sheet but explains everything like a build sheet would.
 
I think it really only matters to serious collectors if everything is numbers matching. I personally don't care about a numbers matching car, but to each their own. If is has a new or updated drivetrain awesome!
 
As others have mentioned - it generally means that the engine and transmission have the proper VIN code that matches the VIN tag on the car. Some people may take it more loosely to mean that the casting numbers match (the engine and transmission are the original type.)

I cant speak to GM, but on my 1970 Ford, the last 5 or 6 digits of the VIN were stamped on one of the cylinder banks. (it was very hard to find - I had to really clean off the block and search to find it - on the back of the engine on one cylinder bank) the block casting number was above the oil pan rim above the starter; as was the date code. the cylinder heads had no VIN that I could find, but did have casting codes and date codes on them.

I imagine that it matters most IF you have a special edition from the factory and want to ensure that it is genuine and not a fake replica.

on my Ford, the block was cracked - so my replacement engine is not "numbers matching". I don't really care - it was a plain Jane Cougar XR7 and not a Dan Gurney special or an Eliminator.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
What car are you trying to de-code?



2003 Chevrolet 6.0 NV4500 3.73 G80 Silverado.


I just think it would be kind of neat to see the same stamping sequence in more than one place. My passenger side head has a three digit number, but the driver's side looks like different markings. I have a printout from the dealer on my truck. It is not quite a build sheet but explains everything like a build sheet would.


Every 6.0L truck engine (With aluminum heads) I have ever seen have "317" casting number heads, The passenger head has the casting number at the front, The drive side head will have the number at the back where it's hard to see.
 
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