Originally Posted By: alarmguy
It really doesnt matter if an oil is a full synthetic, part synthetic or full conventional unless it is proven to result in less wear which rarely anyone can prove, its all marketing. They are all classified by API grade.
If your concerned about wear, use any oil in the API grade recommended by the manufacturer of the vehicle and change at or before the recommended change interval.
Everything else is just unproven reasoning and full blown marketing with words, zero facts..and massive profits for the maker of the oil.
(idahokid, you heard Syn3 is a full synthetic so you may try it now, yet you use part synthetic oil in your truck, personally i rather use part synthetics or full conventional in a motorcycle as no one has ever proved to me a full synthetic is better when it comes to wear)
It depends how you define a full synthetic and the type of engine involved. If you talk to folks that rebuild turbo charges or who like long OCI's, you will find they have a lot of evidence about both the high temp shear resistance of a full synthetic and it's ability to outlast a dino based oil.
If you do have a turbo charged engine or a petrol engine that is subject to high RPM's (Bike engines for example), German standard group 4 synthoils or GTL based oils like Shell or Penn Ultra produce better UOA figures.
There is not much evidence that there is a significant difference between a HC synthetic and a good conventional base oil when used in a typical non turbo car engine when the OCI is not in excess of 5K miles. The additives included in the oil are then the important factor, rather than the actual base stock type or mix.
If you live up North and have to use an 0wX in winter, then I suspect it would be very difficult to make an oil in that grade from a conventional base stock that would pass API spec requirements.
It really doesnt matter if an oil is a full synthetic, part synthetic or full conventional unless it is proven to result in less wear which rarely anyone can prove, its all marketing. They are all classified by API grade.
If your concerned about wear, use any oil in the API grade recommended by the manufacturer of the vehicle and change at or before the recommended change interval.
Everything else is just unproven reasoning and full blown marketing with words, zero facts..and massive profits for the maker of the oil.
(idahokid, you heard Syn3 is a full synthetic so you may try it now, yet you use part synthetic oil in your truck, personally i rather use part synthetics or full conventional in a motorcycle as no one has ever proved to me a full synthetic is better when it comes to wear)
It depends how you define a full synthetic and the type of engine involved. If you talk to folks that rebuild turbo charges or who like long OCI's, you will find they have a lot of evidence about both the high temp shear resistance of a full synthetic and it's ability to outlast a dino based oil.
If you do have a turbo charged engine or a petrol engine that is subject to high RPM's (Bike engines for example), German standard group 4 synthoils or GTL based oils like Shell or Penn Ultra produce better UOA figures.
There is not much evidence that there is a significant difference between a HC synthetic and a good conventional base oil when used in a typical non turbo car engine when the OCI is not in excess of 5K miles. The additives included in the oil are then the important factor, rather than the actual base stock type or mix.
If you live up North and have to use an 0wX in winter, then I suspect it would be very difficult to make an oil in that grade from a conventional base stock that would pass API spec requirements.
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