Long term protection
- Thread starter whip
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'm with you. I'd pay a little more for the Collinite and not have to worry about staining trim, or taking the extra time to mask it, or being extra careful applying it.
Haven't done it in a while but try any vegetable oil...should come right off.
I'm with you. I'd pay a little more for the Collinite and not have to worry about staining trim, or taking the extra time to mask it, or being extra careful applying it.
Haven't done it in a while but try any vegetable oil...should come right off.
A bit like, what is the best oil, there will never be a consensus.
I prefer Ultima Paint Guard Prep, followed by Ultima Paint Guard Plus sealant or Zaino AIO with a follow-on of Zaino clear seal (CS).
Once a year with Paint Guard Prep (or Zaino AIO) and quarterly with Paint Guard Plus sealant (or Zaino CS).
I prefer Ultima Paint Guard Prep, followed by Ultima Paint Guard Plus sealant or Zaino AIO with a follow-on of Zaino clear seal (CS).
Once a year with Paint Guard Prep (or Zaino AIO) and quarterly with Paint Guard Plus sealant (or Zaino CS).
Possible stupid question...... I'm looking at the Duragloss website. https://www.duragloss.com/index.php?route=common/home I'm not seeing any of the products that were mentioned above. I'm not seeing any numbered porducts like 501. 105, 501 and 601 were all mentioned. Am I looking at the wrong site, or are they called something different?
Their site isn't the best. You need to click under the left side "categories" and then search in the various links. They list their products by name, not by number.
Here's where you end up for the "105": ..... https://www.duragloss.com/16-oz.-Duragloss-TPP-(Total-Performance-Polish)
I concur with Curtis Newton about product consensus. There are too many variables: environment, applicator technique, etc..
Here's where you end up for the "105": ..... https://www.duragloss.com/16-oz.-Duragloss-TPP-(Total-Performance-Polish)
I concur with Curtis Newton about product consensus. There are too many variables: environment, applicator technique, etc..
Originally Posted By: whip
Possible stupid question...... I'm looking at the Duragloss website. https://www.duragloss.com/index.php?route=common/home I'm not seeing any of the products that were mentioned above. I'm not seeing any numbered porducts like 501. 105, 501 and 601 were all mentioned. Am I looking at the wrong site, or are they called something different?
The number should be printed on the label of each product so just look at the picture. 105 will be under Exterior Polishes, then click on Total Performance Polish. 601 is under Pre-Polishing Agents, then click Polish Bonding Agent. The 501 is under their Marine/RV section then click on Marine/RV Polish. And just to make things a little more confusing, if the product comes in a larger container the number will change a few numbers higher. Ie, 601 will become 603.
Possible stupid question...... I'm looking at the Duragloss website. https://www.duragloss.com/index.php?route=common/home I'm not seeing any of the products that were mentioned above. I'm not seeing any numbered porducts like 501. 105, 501 and 601 were all mentioned. Am I looking at the wrong site, or are they called something different?
The number should be printed on the label of each product so just look at the picture. 105 will be under Exterior Polishes, then click on Total Performance Polish. 601 is under Pre-Polishing Agents, then click Polish Bonding Agent. The 501 is under their Marine/RV section then click on Marine/RV Polish. And just to make things a little more confusing, if the product comes in a larger container the number will change a few numbers higher. Ie, 601 will become 603.
I use Duralast 101 or 111 with the 601 polish bonding agent and it lasts over a year on my Mustang but it does stay under a carport or in a garage when not driven.
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Originally Posted By: grampi
Duragloss, Collinite, and Zaino will all outlast Nufinish...
Zaino certainly won't. I've never seen it last more then 4 months on an outside car and I've done a lot of vehicles with it. Duragloss and collinite are good long lasting waxes but do not outlast NuFinish...not in any measurable way(like splitting hairs)
Nufinish would serve you very well for long term protection.
I've had Zaino last over a year...
Then with those conditions your vehicles are seeing, NuFinish would last 2 years. No way Zaino lasts even close to a year. Don't take my word though....it is all over the forums that it is not know for its durability.
Is it ok to use a quick detailer over the Nufinish
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Originally Posted By: grampi
Duragloss, Collinite, and Zaino will all outlast Nufinish...
Zaino certainly won't. I've never seen it last more then 4 months on an outside car and I've done a lot of vehicles with it. Duragloss and collinite are good long lasting waxes but do not outlast NuFinish...not in any measurable way(like splitting hairs)
Nufinish would serve you very well for long term protection.
I've had Zaino last over a year...
Then with those conditions your vehicles are seeing, NuFinish would last 2 years. No way Zaino lasts even close to a year. Don't take my word though....it is all over the forums that it is not know for its durability.
Is it ok to use a quick detailer over the Nufinish
Originally Posted By: Branson304
Nu Finish has worked well for me for the longterm. I did a Nu Finish treatment in October 2015 on the Fiesta & it still beads to this day. The beads aren't as "uniform" as they once were but it's almost a year later... I have applied a couple treatments of Turtle Wax Ice Spray wax after washes before & that's it.
I also Nu Finish'd the Taurus around the same time & it was still beading well when I decided to wax it again in March.
I am no expert on waxes & detailing but I have seen Nu Finish last, so I'd go for that. The bottle recommends you do a second application about a month after the first, I never did so I can only imagine how long it may last if you did!
Congrats, beading means nothing for protection and Nu Finish isn't very good in this regard.
Use a quality Sealant instead of a wax. Follow the usual prep like wash, claybar, etc. beforehand. Good to go.
Nu Finish has worked well for me for the longterm. I did a Nu Finish treatment in October 2015 on the Fiesta & it still beads to this day. The beads aren't as "uniform" as they once were but it's almost a year later... I have applied a couple treatments of Turtle Wax Ice Spray wax after washes before & that's it.
I also Nu Finish'd the Taurus around the same time & it was still beading well when I decided to wax it again in March.
I am no expert on waxes & detailing but I have seen Nu Finish last, so I'd go for that. The bottle recommends you do a second application about a month after the first, I never did so I can only imagine how long it may last if you did!
Congrats, beading means nothing for protection and Nu Finish isn't very good in this regard.
Use a quality Sealant instead of a wax. Follow the usual prep like wash, claybar, etc. beforehand. Good to go.
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Originally Posted By: Branson304
Nu Finish has worked well for me for the longterm. I did a Nu Finish treatment in October 2015 on the Fiesta & it still beads to this day. The beads aren't as "uniform" as they once were but it's almost a year later... I have applied a couple treatments of Turtle Wax Ice Spray wax after washes before & that's it.
I also Nu Finish'd the Taurus around the same time & it was still beading well when I decided to wax it again in March.
I am no expert on waxes & detailing but I have seen Nu Finish last, so I'd go for that. The bottle recommends you do a second application about a month after the first, I never did so I can only imagine how long it may last if you did!
Congrats, beading means nothing for protection and Nu Finish isn't very good in this regard.
Use a quality Sealant instead of a wax. Follow the usual prep like wash, claybar, etc. beforehand. Good to go.
Ummm....NuFinish is a polymer sealant and not a wax and is one of the longest lasting products on the market. It protects better than most. Beading is also a sign of protection, as long as there is beading or sheeting action, there is a layer between your paint and the weather thus a layer of protection on your paint.
Originally Posted By: Branson304
Nu Finish has worked well for me for the longterm. I did a Nu Finish treatment in October 2015 on the Fiesta & it still beads to this day. The beads aren't as "uniform" as they once were but it's almost a year later... I have applied a couple treatments of Turtle Wax Ice Spray wax after washes before & that's it.
I also Nu Finish'd the Taurus around the same time & it was still beading well when I decided to wax it again in March.
I am no expert on waxes & detailing but I have seen Nu Finish last, so I'd go for that. The bottle recommends you do a second application about a month after the first, I never did so I can only imagine how long it may last if you did!
Congrats, beading means nothing for protection and Nu Finish isn't very good in this regard.
Use a quality Sealant instead of a wax. Follow the usual prep like wash, claybar, etc. beforehand. Good to go.
Ummm....NuFinish is a polymer sealant and not a wax and is one of the longest lasting products on the market. It protects better than most. Beading is also a sign of protection, as long as there is beading or sheeting action, there is a layer between your paint and the weather thus a layer of protection on your paint.
Originally Posted By: miata10ae
Zaino certainly won't. I've never seen it last more then 4 months on an outside car and I've done a lot of vehicles with it. Duragloss and collinite are good long lasting waxes but do not outlast NuFinish...not in any measurable way(like splitting hairs)
Nufinish would serve you very well for long term protection.
[/quote]Is it ok to use a quick detailer over the Nufinish [/quote]
Absolutely. I've had good luck experimenting with Eagle one wax as you dry over the last few years. It's one of the longer lasting spray waxes available and is very easy to use. You apply it while the car is wet which saves you a little bit of labor and the results are typically very good.
Zaino certainly won't. I've never seen it last more then 4 months on an outside car and I've done a lot of vehicles with it. Duragloss and collinite are good long lasting waxes but do not outlast NuFinish...not in any measurable way(like splitting hairs)
Nufinish would serve you very well for long term protection.
[/quote]Is it ok to use a quick detailer over the Nufinish [/quote]
Absolutely. I've had good luck experimenting with Eagle one wax as you dry over the last few years. It's one of the longer lasting spray waxes available and is very easy to use. You apply it while the car is wet which saves you a little bit of labor and the results are typically very good.
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Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Originally Posted By: Branson304
Nu Finish has worked well for me for the longterm. I did a Nu Finish treatment in October 2015 on the Fiesta & it still beads to this day. The beads aren't as "uniform" as they once were but it's almost a year later... I have applied a couple treatments of Turtle Wax Ice Spray wax after washes before & that's it.
I also Nu Finish'd the Taurus around the same time & it was still beading well when I decided to wax it again in March.
I am no expert on waxes & detailing but I have seen Nu Finish last, so I'd go for that. The bottle recommends you do a second application about a month after the first, I never did so I can only imagine how long it may last if you did!
Congrats, beading means nothing for protection and Nu Finish isn't very good in this regard.
Use a quality Sealant instead of a wax. Follow the usual prep like wash, claybar, etc. beforehand. Good to go.
Ummm....NuFinish is a polymer sealant and not a wax and is one of the longest lasting products on the market. It protects better than most. Beading is also a sign of protection, as long as there is beading or sheeting action, there is a layer between your paint and the weather thus a layer of protection on your paint.
Incorrect! A freshly painted panel beads water. Also, Nu Finish is garbage compared to a real sealant.
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Originally Posted By: Branson304
Nu Finish has worked well for me for the longterm. I did a Nu Finish treatment in October 2015 on the Fiesta & it still beads to this day. The beads aren't as "uniform" as they once were but it's almost a year later... I have applied a couple treatments of Turtle Wax Ice Spray wax after washes before & that's it.
I also Nu Finish'd the Taurus around the same time & it was still beading well when I decided to wax it again in March.
I am no expert on waxes & detailing but I have seen Nu Finish last, so I'd go for that. The bottle recommends you do a second application about a month after the first, I never did so I can only imagine how long it may last if you did!
Congrats, beading means nothing for protection and Nu Finish isn't very good in this regard.
Use a quality Sealant instead of a wax. Follow the usual prep like wash, claybar, etc. beforehand. Good to go.
Ummm....NuFinish is a polymer sealant and not a wax and is one of the longest lasting products on the market. It protects better than most. Beading is also a sign of protection, as long as there is beading or sheeting action, there is a layer between your paint and the weather thus a layer of protection on your paint.
Incorrect! A freshly painted panel beads water. Also, Nu Finish is garbage compared to a real sealant.
And the argument goes on as to weather or not beading = protection. What I want to know, is how does one know when to re-wax if beading doesn't mean anything? By the feel of the slickness, or what????
You'd honestly need a paint microscope to even tell.
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Originally Posted By: Branson304
Nu Finish has worked well for me for the longterm. I did a Nu Finish treatment in October 2015 on the Fiesta & it still beads to this day. The beads aren't as "uniform" as they once were but it's almost a year later... I have applied a couple treatments of Turtle Wax Ice Spray wax after washes before & that's it.
I also Nu Finish'd the Taurus around the same time & it was still beading well when I decided to wax it again in March.
I am no expert on waxes & detailing but I have seen Nu Finish last, so I'd go for that. The bottle recommends you do a second application about a month after the first, I never did so I can only imagine how long it may last if you did!
Congrats, beading means nothing for protection and Nu Finish isn't very good in this regard.
Use a quality Sealant instead of a wax. Follow the usual prep like wash, claybar, etc. beforehand. Good to go.
Ummm....NuFinish is a polymer sealant and not a wax and is one of the longest lasting products on the market. It protects better than most. Beading is also a sign of protection, as long as there is beading or sheeting action, there is a layer between your paint and the weather thus a layer of protection on your paint.
Incorrect! A freshly painted panel beads water. Also, Nu Finish is garbage compared to a real sealant.
Bull [censored]. I've painted plenty of cars and a freshly painted panel does not bead at all like a freshly waxed panel, not even remotely close! I'd have to think that this was Grampi! Sounds just like him! This is been hashed out so many times and it's been proven that NuFinish is one of the best sealants on the market. Lots of car snobs say it's garbage and have never even used it. It will outperform most of the high dollar non-over-the-counter products on the market. It does not shine the best or have the best look but it is indeed one of the most durable and longest lasting. I've seen the beading versus no beating argument and I've done a massive amount of research on it and 25 years of professional detailing with 15 of those being full-time and I absolutely am convinced that strong tight beads are a solid indicator of protection. This is been hashed out so many times on the forum you just need to go back and spend some time reading about it. I'm not gonna waste my time arguing with with people who don't have a clue.
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Originally Posted By: Branson304
Nu Finish has worked well for me for the longterm. I did a Nu Finish treatment in October 2015 on the Fiesta & it still beads to this day. The beads aren't as "uniform" as they once were but it's almost a year later... I have applied a couple treatments of Turtle Wax Ice Spray wax after washes before & that's it.
I also Nu Finish'd the Taurus around the same time & it was still beading well when I decided to wax it again in March.
I am no expert on waxes & detailing but I have seen Nu Finish last, so I'd go for that. The bottle recommends you do a second application about a month after the first, I never did so I can only imagine how long it may last if you did!
Congrats, beading means nothing for protection and Nu Finish isn't very good in this regard.
Use a quality Sealant instead of a wax. Follow the usual prep like wash, claybar, etc. beforehand. Good to go.
Ummm....NuFinish is a polymer sealant and not a wax and is one of the longest lasting products on the market. It protects better than most. Beading is also a sign of protection, as long as there is beading or sheeting action, there is a layer between your paint and the weather thus a layer of protection on your paint.
Incorrect! A freshly painted panel beads water. Also, Nu Finish is garbage compared to a real sealant.
Bull [censored]. I've painted plenty of cars and a freshly painted panel does not bead at all like a freshly waxed panel, not even remotely close! I'd have to think that this was Grampi! Sounds just like him! This is been hashed out so many times and it's been proven that NuFinish is one of the best sealants on the market. Lots of car snobs say it's garbage and have never even used it. It will outperform most of the high dollar non-over-the-counter products on the market. It does not shine the best or have the best look but it is indeed one of the most durable and longest lasting. I've seen the beading versus no beating argument and I've done a massive amount of research on it and 25 years of professional detailing with 15 of those being full-time and I absolutely am convinced that strong tight beads are a solid indicator of protection. This is been hashed out so many times on the forum you just need to go back and spend some time reading about it. I'm not gonna waste my time arguing with with people who don't have a clue.
Originally Posted By: old1
And the argument goes on as to weather or not beading = protection. What I want to know, is how does one know when to re-wax if beading doesn't mean anything? By the feel of the slickness, or what????
Beading is absolutely one of the best ways to know if your paint is being protected regardless of what some of the Internet commandos think. I've been a professional detailer for 25 years and I know how this works. This argument actually seems to be recently new with some of the younger generation. They think they are scientists. It's actually quite a simple concept to understand.
Slickness and beading don't always go hand-in-hand. With a lot of sealants and waxes you will notice that as the slickness wears off the beading is less and less tight. Most waxes will bead longer than the slickness stays on the paint.
And the argument goes on as to weather or not beading = protection. What I want to know, is how does one know when to re-wax if beading doesn't mean anything? By the feel of the slickness, or what????
Beading is absolutely one of the best ways to know if your paint is being protected regardless of what some of the Internet commandos think. I've been a professional detailer for 25 years and I know how this works. This argument actually seems to be recently new with some of the younger generation. They think they are scientists. It's actually quite a simple concept to understand.
Slickness and beading don't always go hand-in-hand. With a lot of sealants and waxes you will notice that as the slickness wears off the beading is less and less tight. Most waxes will bead longer than the slickness stays on the paint.
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Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Incorrect! A freshly painted panel beads water.
You can smear all kinds of stuff on a panel to make it bead, doesn't mean is protected. There is no factual info to prove beading is a sign of protection. It's all speculation and personal opinion. I never rely on beading as a sign of a UV protected panel. Plus, I'd rather have sheeting anyway and choose my protection based on the sheeting ability, no beads for me please.
Incorrect! A freshly painted panel beads water.
You can smear all kinds of stuff on a panel to make it bead, doesn't mean is protected. There is no factual info to prove beading is a sign of protection. It's all speculation and personal opinion. I never rely on beading as a sign of a UV protected panel. Plus, I'd rather have sheeting anyway and choose my protection based on the sheeting ability, no beads for me please.
Originally Posted By: FastEddie
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Incorrect! A freshly painted panel beads water.
You can smear all kinds of stuff on a panel to make it bead, doesn't mean is protected. There is no factual info to prove beading is a sign of protection. It's all speculation and personal opinion. I never rely on beading as a sign of a UV protected panel. Plus, I'd rather have sheeting anyway and choose my protection based on the sheeting ability, no beads for me please.
I would partially agree with this statement but just as there's no way to prove that it is protecting there's also no way to prove it is not. We know that most waxes and sealants are very good for car paint and designed to protect and preserve. I have pictures of cars that are 20+ years old that have been waxed/sealed twice a year and they're paint jobs are still in like new condition. That's because the product used on the paint was protecting and preserving it. All of those products I've seen over this long period of time showed very tight beading on the paint.
This is why I believe and argue in favor of beading.
Edit to add:
I also believe sheeting is a great indicator of protection. If customers want sheeting action then I use something that sheets. Fully agree that sheeting is a very desired quality in the sealant/ wax. I personally see sheeting action and beading as both very desirable traits.
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Incorrect! A freshly painted panel beads water.
You can smear all kinds of stuff on a panel to make it bead, doesn't mean is protected. There is no factual info to prove beading is a sign of protection. It's all speculation and personal opinion. I never rely on beading as a sign of a UV protected panel. Plus, I'd rather have sheeting anyway and choose my protection based on the sheeting ability, no beads for me please.
I would partially agree with this statement but just as there's no way to prove that it is protecting there's also no way to prove it is not. We know that most waxes and sealants are very good for car paint and designed to protect and preserve. I have pictures of cars that are 20+ years old that have been waxed/sealed twice a year and they're paint jobs are still in like new condition. That's because the product used on the paint was protecting and preserving it. All of those products I've seen over this long period of time showed very tight beading on the paint.
This is why I believe and argue in favor of beading.
Edit to add:
I also believe sheeting is a great indicator of protection. If customers want sheeting action then I use something that sheets. Fully agree that sheeting is a very desired quality in the sealant/ wax. I personally see sheeting action and beading as both very desirable traits.
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