Buick Century drivers window won't go down

[901Memphis]

My 2002 Century drivers side window is not going down, thankfully it's stuck in the closed position.

It was working fine one day and the next day it just wouldn't open.

A couple of years ago it was getting sluggish in the cold months but I lubed everything thoroughly with silicone spray and it's been normal for at least a couple years then all of the sudden it stops without any sluggish warning.

I am not sure if this is a case of the common failed regulator or just a simple switch issue.

The driver's switches all still work for everything else and all the other windows work fine.

Regulator or switch?

 

[toneydoc]

I had a similar problem with my Jeep couple years ago. The wire that was in the harness between the body and the door broke in two. Repaired it and back in business

 

[CharBaby]

If you can hear(key on) the switch clicking when you go in the up/down position, there is power to the motor. If you remove the door panel and tap(screwdriver handle) the motor and the widow starts working again, it's the motor......this is how I do it although there is more certain procedures for checking the system.

 

[Nick1994]

These cars are known for window problems. I'm amazed it has lasted this long. My brother's 99 Century had electrical issues for the windows. Don't remember what they were though.

My brother and I would laugh when he had his Buick, we'd go on Craigslist and search for Buick Centurys and if there was 15 of them on there, 13-14 of the ads said "Windows don't work"

 

[901Memphis]

Yes I know it's infamous for window problems I just don't want to replace the regulator if it's just the switch which is the cheaper part

 

[Trav]

Use a test light on itif you cant hear anything, remove the door panel, connect the switch and see if you get power to the motor when its pressed.
W body car switches sometimes fail because water gets in the switch, if you spray some contact cleaner in the switch they come back, I have 3 of them that have been fine for the last few years after cleaning.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI

 

[artificialist]

If you push the window button and more electricity is drawn, you know it is a stuck motor or regulator. If more current isn't drawn, it is an electrical component.

If a car has a marginal battery, you can put the key into the on position, but not start the engine. Turn the dome light on, and it dims when you push the window switch, it proves the window is stuck. If it doesn't, there is an electrical problem.

 

[901Memphis]

I put a known good working switch in from another vehicle in and the same thing happens, so i am guessing its the regulator/motor assembly which is one piece purchase usually. I guess i should have known since it was slow before i lubed it.

 

[mk378]

Originally Posted By: toneydoc
I had a similar problem with my Jeep couple years ago. The wire that was in the harness between the body and the door broke in two. Repaired it and back in business


THIS is by far the most common problem with power window systems, on almost any car.

Confirm that the motor is receiving power but not moving before assuming that it is bad.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: mk378
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
I had a similar problem with my Jeep couple years ago. The wire that was in the harness between the body and the door broke in two. Repaired it and back in business


THIS is by far the most common problem with power window systems, on almost any car.

Confirm that the motor is receiving power but not moving before assuming that it is bad.


My experience with Grand Ams of that vintage is that it is not unusual for part of the regulator to break (cable, plastic guide, etc.), preventing the motor from moving the regulator.

There are lots of You Tube videos for the Buick Century. Looks like it is very easy. I've had good luck with the cheap Chinese aftermarket ones.

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: mk378
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
I had a similar problem with my Jeep couple years ago. The wire that was in the harness between the body and the door broke in two. Repaired it and back in business


THIS is by far the most common problem with power window systems, on almost any car.

Confirm that the motor is receiving power but not moving before assuming that it is bad.



I guess you're not familiar with these W body cars, the regulator is a very common failure point. Sometimes the cables wear right through the plastic guides and binds permanently

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: mk378
Confirm that the motor is receiving power but not moving before assuming that it is bad.


Tell me if I got this right:

-You first put the pointy end on the wire going to the electric motor. You put the clampy end on a good ground. If it lights, you got power to the switch.

- Now you put the pointy end on the wire going from the switch to the electric motor. You put the clampy end on a good ground. Throw the switch. If it lights, your switch is good.

Is that right ?

 

[mk378]

Connect the two leads of the light or meter to the two leads of the motor. The order doesn't matter. The motor should stay plugged in. Turn key on and press the button. The light should light up or meter show about 12 volts. If you use a meter it will be positive voltage pushing the button one way and negative the other. Lights will just light up either way.

Many systems have 12 volts from both leads of the motor to ground when at rest. It is the difference in voltage between the two leads that is important.

 

[901Memphis]

I fixed it with a Dorman made in Taiwan regulator and motor assembly. Used my Amazon prime about $50 Cuz I wanted it fixed this weekend and ordered on Thursday.

Disassembly revealed a bad motor was the culprit most like. The steel wires weren't worn through the guide all the way yet and nothing was bound up, I removed the motor from the regulator and was able to turn the old pulley with a pair of pliers pretty easy.