Dash swap: Cavalier

[supton]

on 2002 Cavaliers, can one swap dashboards without undue grief? Like computer woes or days of work.

Person I know is selling a pair of Cavaliers, essentially parts cars, but it looks like it may be possible to make one good one out of them. But a dash swap may be in order.

 

[doitmyself]

Check out the Youtube videos showing the process. It doesn't look too hard.

 

[supton]

Yeah, it doesnt look bad. The seller said something about gauges not working, and I know clusters can be coded to the ecu, so not sure if I can swap clusters "easily". Assuming it is really dead.

 

[BigD1]

Give Digital Dash Solutions a call because they will know what needs to be done about the cluster.

http://www.fixmygauges.com/

 

[eljefino]

From what into what?

I do know that era cav is pretty modular.

I took a 2000 cavalier engine, transmission, and computer and connected it up to the body harness by the firewall of a 2004. Everything worked-- gauges, emissions, etc. "The story" is chevy wanted the ecotec in 2000 but they couldn't make enough so they wired it up to be "ecotec ready". The older, 1999 and prior, are very different electrically.

Sure there were random pins in the connectors that went unused/ were for future expansion. But, electrically, they seemed to want to make everything "open-source".

 

[supton]

Local guy has two 2002 Cav's, with the 2.2L OHV (not Ecotec) and 4AT's. He started swapping parts between them, which is a shame, as the donor car is rust free (or close enough). Problem is, after looking again, it's got some significant leaks (oil? PS? ATF? all?), no (or low) coolant, nasty brake fluid, he said the gauges didn't work, the injectors and starter are removed. Bought as a parts car (albeit running, but it died on him on the drive home) for the other one, which has arch rot, crusty brake lines, and a pretty beat interior (and shows 232k on the clock). Neither run.

[The better one has bad front end toe, I think someone off-roaded it. I should jack it up and look better. Tire wear is with the tall edge of the ramp on the forward tread block. It was huge wear too. I didn't feel like dropping my jack into the mud to see if this was the front control arm or something else.]

 

[Nick1994]

I wouldn't touch them even if they were free.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I wouldn't touch them even if they were free.


Eh, they were close by. Not something I'd normally be interested in, but the price is right, and it might be interesting to work on.

Starting to wonder if I just need non-primary wheels--usually I'm thinking about something I can put 20k/year onto, maybe I should flip it around and get something I put 2k/year onto. You know, the rarely-used backup. I'm already putting off work on my truck on the premise that I can't have the downtime, in case I can't finish the job before I need to use it again. I mean, I've been putting off a valve cover gasket (for leaking spark plug tubes).

 

[daves87rs]

Quite a few folks have done dash swaps on J body.org....will be some good info there...

 

[Andrew1972]

Is all that work worth $3500 car - cost pair of donors - misc parts you'll need - your hours of labor?

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: madRiver
Is all that work worth $3500 car - cost pair of donors - misc parts you'll need - your hours of labor?


I figured, I'd give myself a full grand for a budget, for both purchase and repair. If it did not move after that, then call the tow truck to take away the piles.

 

[dishdude]

I like Cavi's, I had two of them. I don't think I'd touch these two. One is rotted out and the other was off roaded? Pass.

 

[eljefino]

The fluid leaks are the deal breaker for me.

I'm pretty good at buying clunkers and there's always twice the drama once I get 'em home.

Suck it up and get an actual ecotec cavalier. They leak less than the 2.2s. I'll even give you a motor if you find a dead one-- the amusement factor for me would be worth it.

If you can get all the subframe bolts free from the unibody these heaps are VERY easy to powertrain swap. Just unbolt everything and drop them out of the bottom.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3332074/8

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: supton


Starting to wonder if I just need non-primary wheels--usually I'm thinking about something I can put 20k/year onto, maybe I should flip it around and get something I put 2k/year onto. You know, the rarely-used backup.


If you're implying low-use means low maintenance, doubt this works.

My car is non-primary wheels (Primary wheels are a bicycle, some trains, gf's car and scooter...) but I don't think it needs less maintenance because of that. Probably the other way around. If I used it more it'd work better.

 

[supton]

Nah, I know it'll need just as much work as if it were worked more. But instead of spending >$5k to get something "good", spend $2k (preferably less) and just try to milk the last bit of life. Instead of buying something I would like to drive daily, buy something that I drive only when I need to.

Different line of thought for me. I always figured I'd only drive my truck on the weekends, it's a low mpg vehicle, didn't want to own forever, etc. Now that I've been driving it for a while... it's kinda grown on me, actually. Perfect it's not. Its main issue has nothing to do with it, but rather the fact that I live too far from parts stores. If anything happens, it's 30 miles to the store. Or 2-3 days to ship a part.

 

[Nick1994]

I think I'd get a reliable commuter and have the truck as a backup vehicle so it keeps the miles off and less rust.

Because your truck and the Camry will both reach high miles soon. Then you have 2 vehicles to replace at the same time.

I know you didn't like the Versa, but in my area they're selling for $8,499 stick shift. Kinda hard to beat. If a $2k car will last 30k miles and be full of repairs, a $8,499 Versa ($10k after taxes) ought to have almost no repairs for 125k miles or so, and make it to close to 200k before getting rusty and time to sell. It would be paid off before the wife's Camry is time for replacement, 1 car payment at a time. Also more time to spend with the family instead of under a car playing with it. I'd think a new Versa would be less of a penalty box to drive than a Cavalier.

$2k car for 30,000 miles is $0.066 per mile for purchase price
$10k car for 200,000 miles is $0.05 per mile for purchase price

Go on Autotrader and search all new cars from price low to high.

 

[supton]

I dunno, the Versa I drove was a penalty box. Like, need to wear earplugs on highway bad. At $10k I could deal, but still more than I wanted to spend.

Will look later; a search last night (more local than not) didn't yield in that price range.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: supton
I dunno, the Versa I drove was a penalty box. Like, need to wear earplugs on highway bad. At $10k I could deal, but still more than I wanted to spend.

Will look later; a search last night (more local than not) didn't yield in that price range.


Found them: $8,500 but $700 documentation fee (and a trip to VA). Too bad I also found my prior review of the car.

I totally hear what you are saying, but I ruled out the option back then, and I think my conclusion still stands.

 

[pandus13]

Originally Posted By: supton
I dunno, the Versa I drove was a penalty box. Like, need to wear earplugs on highway bad. At $10k I could deal, but still more than I wanted to spend.


$500-800 at an auto-audio shop for sound insulation......
since you do 15k miles per year, you will get to 150,000 miles in 10 years.
how much is 500-800 bucks over 10 years?

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: pandus13
Originally Posted By: supton
I dunno, the Versa I drove was a penalty box. Like, need to wear earplugs on highway bad. At $10k I could deal, but still more than I wanted to spend.


$500-800 at an auto-audio shop for sound insulation......
since you do 15k miles per year, you will get to 150,000 miles in 10 years.
how much is 500-800 bucks over 10 years?


Fair point.