Broken bolt from brake caliper Buick Park Ave

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The car is a 97 Buick Park Ave that is near the end of its days due to rust and slight gas tank leak on top of tank. It was parked on the grass for a month and now moved to the garage and the left rear brake is stuck.
I was taking the brake apart to get the car driveable for cheap sell or junk yard when a bolt broke.
Removal of now broken bolt allows the caliper to swing up and then slide off its mount. It turned a few turns then broke so this caliper is going no where.
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Anyone have any ideas on getting it out? I was thinking of drilling a hole through the caliper and accessing it from that side to finish unscrewing it with some sort of tool. Or maybe an ez out from the correct side? I've never used an ez out before so I am unsure.
Any help is appreciated.
Thx

Edit: By the way, I had someone push the parking brake while I watched the mechanism and it seemed OK to me which is why I am now inspecting the brake caliper..
 
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I believe you should also be able to remove the upper mounting pin? It usually has a torx or hex head.
 
Remove the bracket off the car. I would use tweezers and if its toughly in there, use a torch and heat it up good, should help you remove it. Or maybe a socket?
 
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Can you get a hacksaw in there from the bottom to cut the bolt flush with the caliper at the boot? Then you can remove the caliper to try drilling the bolt to try an e-z out.That would trash the boot but those are cheap.
 
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IF an "ez out" is what I think it is, they often don't work, but they often do break off, and then you've got a hardened steel insert in the stub. I don't like them.

(Naturally, this is the only type of extractor readily available in Taiwan.)

The fluted straight edged extractors that you hammer in are better, but that's a pig of a location.

If I'm not confused, if you drill in from the other side, that will be equivalent to using a reverse twist (left hand?) drill bit on the stub, which is often recommended as an extraction method, though I've never tried it and can't get them here.

Quite thick steel though. It'll be hard to stay on target, and there may not be clearance for a pilot hole down the bolt hole.

Doubt it'd be critically weakened but I'm sure lots of people would disapprove.

You'll need penetrating oil, time to soak, perhaps heat cycling, and quite a lot of luck.

Or a new caliper.
 
If you can reach the bolts that hold the bracket to the car with the caliper in place, remove them and take the whole thing off. Once the caliper is clear of the rotor it will come off of the bracket then you can work on the broken bolt.
 
Originally Posted By: mk378
If you can reach the bolts that hold the bracket to the car with the caliper in place, remove them and take the whole thing off. Once the caliper is clear of the rotor it will come off of the bracket then you can work on the broken bolt.


Oh jeez that's true. The problem is simpler than I made it out to be, as long as the caliper bolts are not too corroded. I think they might be OK and not break because they are pretty big.
 
Ideally you want to solve this issue without doing anything to the calliper itself. Technically, any operation on a calliper makes that part illegal to re-install (it's considered tampering with a safety system). So, if you do perform any drilling or other operation on the calliper, don't admit it to anyone.
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
Ideally you want to solve this issue without doing anything to the calliper itself. Technically, any operation on a calliper makes that part illegal to re-install (it's considered tampering with a safety system). So, if you do perform any drilling or other operation on the calliper, don't admit it to anyone.

Oh ok. Yea I really don't want to modify it.
 
Looking at your picture again the location perhaps isn't so bad.

I was thinking of MY calipers, which might be impossible if this happened.
 
Looks like its broke pretty deep in there, are you able to slide the bushing inboard enough to clear it? Why don't you remove the top bolt to pull the caliper, then vise grips to remove the stuck fasterner (after general penetrating oil and time)?
 
Originally Posted By: Blkstanger
I'd just pull the caliper off and replace it.


+1

Good luck trying to get that broken threaded piece out. It didn't break because its threads were clean. Save your time and patience.
 
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
yes, a new bracket should be cheap


This, it's a bracket, and your bolt is called a pin. The thread won't go down far, then it'll be plain unthreaded steel.
 
you described that the left rear wheel was stuck.....so If its the caliper that is seized you will need to replace it anyways, just make sure you get a new bracket with it hardware included etc.
 
Originally Posted By: buck91
Looks like its broke pretty deep in there, are you able to slide the bushing inboard enough to clear it? Why don't you remove the top bolt to pull the caliper, then vise grips to remove the stuck fasterner (after general penetrating oil and time)?


?

Can't see how he could possibly get vice grips on it. Most of the threaded end of the pin is broken off and rusted into a blind threaded hole in the bracket.

Another bracket and another pin is probably the optimal fix. Couldn't do that with mine because there's no separate bracket. Its integral to the caliper.

Or I'm misreading the situation.

If I NEEDED to get something like that out I might try HCl down the hole.
 
Just replace it. How much time are you willing to spend fooling around with it, when you can replace the bracket (assuming the caliper works correctly) for little money? Heck, even if you had to replace both the bracket and caliper....
 
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Remove the bracket off the car. I would use tweezers and if its toughly in there, use a torch and heat it up good, should help you remove it. Or maybe a socket?


?

AFAICT neither tweezers (I THINK they are for plucking eyebrows, or maybe stamp collecting) nor a socket make any sense here.
 
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