You know your clutch is slipping when....

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That's some slippage. Usual test is in top gear and full throttle--the most resistance to vehicle speed change, most torque applied to do so.

Only clutch I've lost broke the pressure plate so it wouldn't disengage--clutch pedal down could get a pinch of slippage, but not actual disengagement.
 
When you put the nose up against a telephone pole and the tranny in 3rd. Let the clutch out slowly and give it some gas. If it won't kill the engine, it's toast ...
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
When you put the nose up against a telephone pole and the tranny in 3rd. Let the clutch out slowly and give it some gas. If it won't kill the engine, it's toast ...


I had an old '63 Galaxie with a leaking rear main seal. The telephone pole thing would dry the clutch out for another 200 trouble-free miles, which equated to about a quart of oil.
 
This is on my Altima. I think it's getting to the point that I may stop all maintenance and see how long it goes. Although I will need some used tires to make it through winter
 
When I had a slipping clutch is noticed the most during full throttle accelerations in gear 2,3,4

rpm's woud go up but the mph didn't increase as they used to. Was pretty obvious.
 
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My R1 did that for a while when power band set in. I thought it was the clutch so I decided to test it. Talk bout pucker factor when your assend steps out at 112mph
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A clutch is truly gone when there is no drive in any gear including reverse.
I've actually seen this and it happened with little warning. I've since become a lot more wary of slipping clutches.
I've driven sticks where you could drop the clutch in first at idle and not kill the engine and the car ran and drove fine as long as you avoided the slip band.
 
You know the clutch is shot when the seller admits it in his ad. He said it would need to be towed. I nursed it home and drove it little bit more before I replaced everything from the swing arm to the rear main seal.
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You know the clutch is shot when, you pull the inspection cover to find stuff that looks like fiberglass insulation around the outside of the bell housing, and little half pieces of heat-treated blue and brown rivets fall out! An early 90's GMC S-15 that, from what I could conclude, had been driven 'til it wouldn't go no more.
 
I don't drive on the highway with my Nissan because it's just a work car and all the roads are 45 mph so I can't test 5th gear but I tested 4th gear at 40-45mph and if you full throttle in gear it doesn't slip.
 
Your car won't go either forward or backward. Had that happen to my '86 Volvo 740 Turbo - in the garage. First car I've ever had towed.

The linkage was broken. But the clutch plate itself still had life in it (at 180,000 km) though we changed it anyway "because we were there".

I was out of town at the time and heard about all this second hand.

The electric overdrive began to slip on hard upshifts too (I did say it was a 740 Turbo). It felt a lot like a bit of wheelspin but without the drama. I stopped doing those hard shifts and it was fine for many thousands of Kms. The overdrive eventually failed too; it suddenly would no longer shift into overdrive. By then I'd found a mechanic who could refurbish it. It was all good after that.
 
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