Some of you might have remembered my astonishment when the brand new OEM ACDelco (not professional or advantage) drums came out of the box warped when I mounted them on my Silverado after putting new brake shoes on it. After not being able to tolerate it any more I returned them to amazon (after ACDelco helped me out with the warranty) for a refund. I purchased some Carquest drums next. Same thing. I thought to myself "you got to be doing something wrong." Today I took the truck into a trusted shop. Sure enough, it was just warped drums. He said he put them on a lathe and there was noticeable warp. I tell you what, I'm sick of these [censored] parts. It seems like it doesn't matter anymore what brand you buy, everything is suspect. I don't have a freakin' brake lathe in my basement. It sucks to not be able to count on new parts to be true and round.
Brake Drums Warped Out of Box..Part 2
- Thread starter CapitalTruck
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Rotors and drums can warp if they're stored stacked standing up.
Thats what the tech mentioned, stacking stuff real high with forklifts.
Imagine going through this B.S. every day on almost every job that aftermarket parts are used on.
What really sucks is of its an old car and OE parts are no longer available, its a nightmare.
What really sucks is of its an old car and OE parts are no longer available, its a nightmare.
I bought a second set of rear rotors for my car and they are warped as well. Not rocket science to get this stuff right..... but you would think it was. Or is it apathy.........?
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They are stacked completely full in shipping containers in China and by the time they get to the U.S., the bottom ones are warped from all the weight that has been on top of them. That never used to happen when they were made in North America.
Originally Posted By: Kruse
They are stacked completely full in shipping containers in China and by the time they get to the U.S., the bottom ones are warped from all the weight that has been on top of them. That never used to happen when they were made in North America.
Was just going to say that myself....happens quite often at the big box stores...
They are stacked completely full in shipping containers in China and by the time they get to the U.S., the bottom ones are warped from all the weight that has been on top of them. That never used to happen when they were made in North America.
Was just going to say that myself....happens quite often at the big box stores...
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Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I bought a second set of rear rotors for my car and they are warped as well. Not rocket science to get this stuff right..... but you would think it was. Or is it apathy.........?
With rotors you need to measure runout. Rotors don't actually warp. You just get runout stacking. You might have a loose bearing or you didn't prep hub face correctly.
I bought a second set of rear rotors for my car and they are warped as well. Not rocket science to get this stuff right..... but you would think it was. Or is it apathy.........?
With rotors you need to measure runout. Rotors don't actually warp. You just get runout stacking. You might have a loose bearing or you didn't prep hub face correctly.
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I bought a second set of rear rotors for my car and they are warped as well. Not rocket science to get this stuff right..... but you would think it was. Or is it apathy.........?
With rotors you need to measure runout. Rotors don't actually warp. You just get runout stacking. You might have a loose bearing or you didn't prep hub face correctly.
^^^agree^^^, My guess is that the flange is half of the problem here. Flange runout and rotor runout can usually cancel each other and a good shop will check both or use an on-the-vehicle lathe to correct any excess. Even new rotors may need to be turned on the vehice to correct runout problems when required.
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I bought a second set of rear rotors for my car and they are warped as well. Not rocket science to get this stuff right..... but you would think it was. Or is it apathy.........?
With rotors you need to measure runout. Rotors don't actually warp. You just get runout stacking. You might have a loose bearing or you didn't prep hub face correctly.
^^^agree^^^, My guess is that the flange is half of the problem here. Flange runout and rotor runout can usually cancel each other and a good shop will check both or use an on-the-vehicle lathe to correct any excess. Even new rotors may need to be turned on the vehice to correct runout problems when required.
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Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I bought a second set of rear rotors for my car and they are warped as well. Not rocket science to get this stuff right..... but you would think it was. Or is it apathy.........?
With rotors you need to measure runout. Rotors don't actually warp. You just get runout stacking. You might have a loose bearing or you didn't prep hub face correctly.
I have a dial indicator that I use when replacing the rotors on my vehicle. I move the rotor around (to various positions on the hub) until I get the least movement. I had to replace a hub once because the runout on that was too bad. However, I think it's a bit of a stretch to suggest that rotors don't warp. Why then would it ever help to do an off the car machining of rotors? I know on the car helps to cancel out some of that nonsense, but I have had my rotors machined off the car before (to a perceived benefit).
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I bought a second set of rear rotors for my car and they are warped as well. Not rocket science to get this stuff right..... but you would think it was. Or is it apathy.........?
With rotors you need to measure runout. Rotors don't actually warp. You just get runout stacking. You might have a loose bearing or you didn't prep hub face correctly.
I have a dial indicator that I use when replacing the rotors on my vehicle. I move the rotor around (to various positions on the hub) until I get the least movement. I had to replace a hub once because the runout on that was too bad. However, I think it's a bit of a stretch to suggest that rotors don't warp. Why then would it ever help to do an off the car machining of rotors? I know on the car helps to cancel out some of that nonsense, but I have had my rotors machined off the car before (to a perceived benefit).
Originally Posted By: Kruse
They are stacked completely full in shipping containers in China and by the time they get to the U.S., the bottom ones are warped from all the weight that has been on top of them. That never used to happen when they were made in North America.
Might have happened to the Chinese, though, if they'd been buying any.
They are stacked completely full in shipping containers in China and by the time they get to the U.S., the bottom ones are warped from all the weight that has been on top of them. That never used to happen when they were made in North America.
Might have happened to the Chinese, though, if they'd been buying any.
They didn't need rotors for bicycles...the common transportation method whenever rotors were still made in the U.S.!
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Originally Posted By: CapitalTruck
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I bought a second set of rear rotors for my car and they are warped as well. Not rocket science to get this stuff right..... but you would think it was. Or is it apathy.........?
With rotors you need to measure runout. Rotors don't actually warp. You just get runout stacking. You might have a loose bearing or you didn't prep hub face correctly.
I have a dial indicator that I use when replacing the rotors on my vehicle. I move the rotor around (to various positions on the hub) until I get the least movement. I had to replace a hub once because the runout on that was too bad. However, I think it's a bit of a stretch to suggest that rotors don't warp. Why then would it ever help to do an off the car machining of rotors? I know on the car helps to cancel out some of that nonsense, but I have had my rotors machined off the car before (to a perceived benefit).
Off the car machining cuts the rotor to zero runout in relation to the hat off the car. On car cutting cuts it relative to ALL of the runout stacking from the hat/flange/etc.
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I bought a second set of rear rotors for my car and they are warped as well. Not rocket science to get this stuff right..... but you would think it was. Or is it apathy.........?
With rotors you need to measure runout. Rotors don't actually warp. You just get runout stacking. You might have a loose bearing or you didn't prep hub face correctly.
I have a dial indicator that I use when replacing the rotors on my vehicle. I move the rotor around (to various positions on the hub) until I get the least movement. I had to replace a hub once because the runout on that was too bad. However, I think it's a bit of a stretch to suggest that rotors don't warp. Why then would it ever help to do an off the car machining of rotors? I know on the car helps to cancel out some of that nonsense, but I have had my rotors machined off the car before (to a perceived benefit).
Off the car machining cuts the rotor to zero runout in relation to the hat off the car. On car cutting cuts it relative to ALL of the runout stacking from the hat/flange/etc.
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