Want to use MMO to clean neglected engine.Confused

[UltrafanUK]

Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
My current OCI in my SL2 was 1 quart of MMO, with Mobil 1 TDT 5w-40 and a bottle of STP HM. Initially it burned off at a slightly higher rate but now the rate is diminishing at an improved rate. I hope to get the consumption rate to >2k miles per quart.

I have been doing a lot of engine braking on deceleration hoping that helps in this process.



Real sludge collects in the sump, so what is in the Pics looks like residue from the use of a conventional base oil that might have been run a bit too long.
If the engine has a turbo I would not use a drive around Scourer like Marvel MO (Or the Liqui Moly equivalent). Amsoil and Liqui Moly both make very good idle use only flush additives that are used just before an oil and filter change. So unless you need to drop the sump because of lumps in the oil, or a flickering low oil pressure warning at hot idle, all you need to do is either a few short runs with Mobil 1 (Or Penn Ultra) OR use an idle flush.

If you mix 2 additives and an oil all made by different companies it's anyones guess what the result will be, as the chemical iteractions will be far too confusing for any Tribi guru to figure out.

 

[crw]

I just now stumbled on this thread... I have the same engine as the OP, and the same rattle on cold startup. I've had the car for about three months, and I have seen evidence of neglect from the previous owner. Having used MMO in the past, I decided yesterday to put 8 oz. in, and I'm already close to the end of my OCI.

Today, my rattle is almost gone! The engine is smoother and quieter.

I'm going to run this for another few days, then dump it for M1 0w-40.

 

[UltrafanUK]

Originally Posted By: crw
I just now stumbled on this thread... I have the same engine as the OP, and the same rattle on cold startup. I've had the car for about three months, and I have seen evidence of neglect from the previous owner. Having used MMO in the past, I decided yesterday to put 8 oz. in, and I'm already close to the end of my OCI.

Today, my rattle is almost gone! The engine is smoother and quieter.

I'm going to run this for another few days, then dump it for M1 0w-40.


Sounds correct, although I don't like using any drive around oil scourer (Liqui Moly name for their version of Marvel) unless I know how bad the sludge is. If it's bad then I always try and drop the sump to clean the oil pump intake screen first. The risk concerns blocking the oil filter OR the turbo feed line. If I can't do the sump clean, then I just flush the emptyish engine with Bio diesel to shift the sludge in the sump, then use LM idle only flush IF the engine has no oil leaks. Otherwise I just do several short OCI's with a major brank cleaner, like Castrol GTX 15/40 HM or Maxlife 10w30 (Both cheap in the EU).

 

[Revving2Redline]

Dont use MMO. Try Motor Oil Saver/LM Mos2 from Liquimoly.Its got esters and the Mos2 will cling to carbon along a good oil with short oci. Grab a good filter too. No engine flushes,just asking for problems lol.

 

[andyd]

Originally Posted By: Marco620
Dont use MMO. Try Motor Oil Saver/LM Mos2 from Liquimoly.Its got esters and the Mos2 will cling to carbon along a good oil with short oci. Grab a good filter too. No engine flushes,just asking for problems lol.
What does it smell like?

 

[Sealbilly]

Start up rattle on most nissan engines are usually caused by the timing chain before the oil pressure operated tensioner is full pumped up. Use a good oil filter with a anti drain valve thingy in it and use oil weight that is speced for the car. I had a nissan truck that did the same thing. I changed the timing gears, chain, guides and tensioner and it went away.

 

[MolaKule]

Originally Posted By: Legend11
Last year I purchased a 2001 Infiniti QX4 (engine: V6 VQ35DE) with 125,000 miles. I believe the engine was not properly taken care of regularly and would like to clean it safely the best I can. I changed the oil from whatever was in there to Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30 FULL Synthetic with FRAM ToughGuard filter and ran it for 1500 miles. At 126,500 I changed the oil again with the same FULL Synthetic oil and filter. Now 3,000 miles later at 129,500 I just changed the oil again.

The question is: Should I switch back to Conventional (Mobil 1 5w-30 conventional) on the next few changes while using MMO? How many changes with MMO should I use before I can revert back to my Mobil 1 5w-30 High Mileage Synthetic? I plan on using 20% MMO in the crankcase? Would this be considered too aggressive?

Any thoughts on this would be helpful. I'm 99% sure I'm overthinking and should just do it already.

The main things i want to accomplish:
1) Clean-up any neglect as I don't have service records and suspect little maintenance
2) Fix a random rattle at cold start-ups. Believe this is tied to lack of oil pressure in the timing chain tensioner which could be result of sludge/build-up

Also, I purchased an older Honda Civic 1991 and plan on doing something similar. It is extremely low mileage for it's age (124,000 miles) and I want to clean up anything that might have resulted with it sitting for long and rarely being driven.

Thank you!


The only OTC cleaner that works gently and one that I have personally tried in those engines is:

http://rislone.com/product/engine-treatment/

in a VQ35DE, for a Nissan '03 PathFInder.

It has cleaners and Anti-wear additives to supplement the displaced engine oil additives.

Add it, bring engine up to operating temperature, and then idle for 15 minutes or longer, and then change oil and filter.

In other words, use it as a "Flush."

[Note: The author has no pecuniary interest in the suggested product or company].

 

[MrQuackers]

From the Rislone FAQ:

"Do I have to flush my oil after using Rislone Engine Treatment?

No, Rislone Engine Treatment is formulated to be left safely in the crankcase for the life of the oil change for maximum performance. It is not an engine flush and does not require draining.
"

 

[Graham Piccinini]

I have tried Rislone engine treatment for a couple OCIs and I have seen the crankcase before and I have seen it after. Result is - no noticeable change at all. As the engine was consuming oil during the intervals - I was topping it off with more Rislone. Did not work in my heavily sludged engine, and the sludge did not become any softer either, unfortunately...

 

[Graham Piccinini]

So now just trying to see if Pennzoil's 0w40 SM oil does anything...

 

[MolaKule]

Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
From the Rislone FAQ:

"Do I have to flush my oil after using Rislone Engine Treatment?

No, Rislone Engine Treatment is formulated to be left safely in the crankcase for the life of the oil change for maximum performance. It is not an engine flush and does not require draining.
"


You don't HAVE to use it as a flush but if you have proof of a heavily sludged engine you want to change the oil and filter immediately after using any cleaner for the first time.

Leaving it in won't hurt the engine, but oil and filter changes need to be done after using any cleaner in case the cleaner has dislodged large pieces of crud.

 

[MolaKule]

Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian
I have tried Rislone engine treatment for a couple OCIs and I have seen the crankcase before and I have seen it after. Result is - no noticeable change at all. As the engine was consuming oil during the intervals - I was topping it off with more Rislone. Did not work in my heavily sludged engine, and the sludge did not become any softer either, unfortunately...


You mean you took the pan off and found sludge in the pan or in the top end?

I can say first hand it cleaned the VVT system of crud in a Nissan Pathfinder within 20 miles of driving with only 16 oz. in the oil.

 

[MrQuackers]

Good points MolaKule. I appreciate your contributions!

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian
I have tried Rislone engine treatment for a couple OCIs and I have seen the crankcase before and I have seen it after. Result is - no noticeable change at all. As the engine was consuming oil during the intervals - I was topping it off with more Rislone. Did not work in my heavily sludged engine, and the sludge did not become any softer either, unfortunately...


You mean you took the pan off and found sludge in the pan or in the top end?

I can say first hand it cleaned the VVT system of crud in a Nissan Pathfinder within 20 miles of driving with only 16 oz. in the oil.
I have inspected the top end, under valve cover, and no difference there at all after almost 10k miles with Rislone.

 

[gallydif]

Originally Posted By: Legend11
Bump!

Finally getting around to working on this truck as it's been parked for quite some time. Giving it a complete tune-up and trying to diagnose the loud rattle at startup. Popped off a timing chain cover today and look at all the sludge!

Should I continue with the Mobil 1 5w30 High Mileage Oil? It's very tempting to throw something else in there to help take this "baked on" sludge off...

You had been using M1HM for over a year now and look at all that crude on there.
Funny thing is that Mobil advertises it'll take off a lot of sludge using them for just 1 OCI. Marketing gimmick.
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why-the-...s-running-clean

 

[OVERKILL]

An oil's primary function is to keep parts properly separated and lubricated. Secondarily, it is to keep things clean and prevent deposits. While it may slowly remove buildup left from a previous lubricant, expecting it to clean off baked-on varnish, particularly in short order, is a bit ridiculous. An oil is not a high potency solvent and making it so would cause it to become a poor lubricant. Likewise, a high potency solvent isn't a good lubricant.

The picture from the Mobil link shows some light sludge, which is soft and far easier to remove than what is pictured above. You'd have a hard time taking the above off with a brush and varsol, so why would one expect an oil to take care of it?

 

[racin4ds]

Originally Posted By: gallydif
Originally Posted By: Legend11
Bump!

Finally getting around to working on this truck as it's been parked for quite some time. Giving it a complete tune-up and trying to diagnose the loud rattle at startup. Popped off a timing chain cover today and look at all the sludge!

Should I continue with the Mobil 1 5w30 High Mileage Oil? It's very tempting to throw something else in there to help take this "baked on" sludge off...

You had been using M1HM for over a year now and look at all that crude on there.
Funny thing is that Mobil advertises it'll take off a lot of sludge using them for just 1 OCI. Marketing gimmick.
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why-the-...s-running-clean


M1 marketing gimmick? say it ain't so! That kinda talk will get you banned on here with all the M1 fanboys!

lol, I personally hate the stuff myself, causes every engine I run it in to make noticeably more noise which I know is anecdotal but its enough to keep me from ever using it again.

 

[gallydif]

^ haha. That's one of two things you can't bad mouth here. The other being Fram oil filters.

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian
I have tried Rislone engine treatment for a couple OCIs and I have seen the crankcase before and I have seen it after. Result is - no noticeable change at all. As the engine was consuming oil during the intervals - I was topping it off with more Rislone. Did not work in my heavily sludged engine, and the sludge did not become any softer either, unfortunately...


You mean you took the pan off and found sludge in the pan or in the top end?

I can say first hand it cleaned the VVT system of crud in a Nissan Pathfinder within 20 miles of driving with only 16 oz. in the oil.


I've similarly noticed it stopped a lifter ticking in my father's old Chrysler LeBaron (K-car) 2.2L 4-cyl. The previous older couple who owned it short tripped a lot and hardly changed the oil due to the fact they were not driving much towards their ownership. So there was definitely some sludge but I cleaned it out over time using Rislone along with HDEO and Mobil 1 10W-30...

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted By: gallydif
Originally Posted By: Legend11
Bump!

Finally getting around to working on this truck as it's been parked for quite some time. Giving it a complete tune-up and trying to diagnose the loud rattle at startup. Popped off a timing chain cover today and look at all the sludge!

Should I continue with the Mobil 1 5w30 High Mileage Oil? It's very tempting to throw something else in there to help take this "baked on" sludge off...

You had been using M1HM for over a year now and look at all that crude on there.
Funny thing is that Mobil advertises it'll take off a lot of sludge using them for just 1 OCI. Marketing gimmick.
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why-the-...s-running-clean


He said it was "parked for some time". How would any oil do any cleaning on a previously "abused" vehicle that had been sitting?