Best SAE30 weight oil?

[BrocLuno]

Rotella T1 or Delo... May depend on price... I can get either locally from jobbers.

The bigger cam'd cars will get Delo 15W-30 SD in lieu of VR-1, now that it's no longer available in Calif

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Well I get where you are coming from, but that ain't where I'm at. Remember, I came to BITOG to learn about oils, not play the "what does your owners manual say" game... I don't care what the OEM specs for 2010 and up vehicles because I will likely die before I own one.

That's true, but that doesn't mean you can't take advantage of modern oils. I clearly don't just go by what the manual says, either, assuming I can use a reasoned alternative. There's little that attracts me to a 30 year old oil. While there undoubtedly have been some incremental improvements, the best advances will be in the more modern oils. The oil companies finished the bulk of their R&D on these monogrades decades ago.

VI does have a value in heat, too, not to mention fuel economy. As I mentioned, I'm not going to chase that one attribute though, nor any other single attribute, including lack of VIIs.

VM free synthetics certainly do have a future. But, that future will need a better price point.

Our Walmarts have monogrades at some pretty decent prices in their house brand in 5 gallon pails. Of course, that's way, way too much oil for something like my lawnmower or my snowblower. Yes, I'd use a monograde in my snowblower since it's always stored in the heated garage.

But, they both tend to get leftovers that are hanging around.

 

[userfriendly]

Once again Garak;
If 5w40 year round makes you happy, by all means carry on.
Please don't feel that you have to defend what you do, your position, or what makes you happy.
Plain & simple.

 

[Garak]

This is an oil discussion board. That's what we do here - discuss oil choices. I feel no need to defend what I do. I've been able to successfully avoid seasonal oil changes based upon ambient temperatures almost without exception for over thirty years. And, that's in a climate where our hottest days of the year are some of the hottest in North America and where our coldest days of the year are some of the coldest in the civilized world.

If my oil choices have allowed me to run the same sump fill all year round, in winters below -40 C to +40 C summer days, I don't think there's much that needs defending or justification.

 

[userfriendly]

In my opinion SAE mono-grades are modern engine oils with the best base stocks and additive packages available.
They are backed up with decades of positive feed back and favorable UAO's.
There is no reason to believe that the absence of OEM approvals is an indication that mono-grade engine oil development is stagnant.
Or the customer base is stuck in the past.
With modern base stock selection and additive packages, VII free mono-grades may contain synthetic base stock,
and many pass winter grades.

Garak;
This and other mono-grade threads are started to discuss VII free non-synthetic engine oil.
Not mono-grade vs. 5w50 or 0w40.
Once again, please don't feel that you must defend your choice of engine oil.
Use what makes you the happiest.

 

[KCJeep]

I do seasonal oil changes because I am a BITOG'er that likes to tinker and they are fun. I could easily run PYB 10w30 all year and be done with it.

 

[Red91]

Broc, most of what were having rebuilt is OHV, pushrod V8 and in line 6 engines. We have an '84 SBC 305 we're picking up Monday. As of late, we've done a SBC 400, a '99 Jeep 4.0 6 cylinder, and a '98 Dodge 2.5 4 cylinder. The 305 is going to be run in on Delo 30, and possibly the Lucas additive, possibly not. I think the Delo is enough, especially considering it's a bone stock 305 with low spring pressures.

 

[BrocLuno]

Yeah, I think you're right. GM's OES additive was/is a great product. ZDDP+ (by Rislone) has worked for me in the past. But I agree with userfriendly, modern monogrades are likely good enough all by themselves.

They can't chase OEM certification as they won't make the cold pour point specs. It would be silly of them to even try. But for folks out west and down south in spring, summer and fall, they are great choices.

Marine and general aviation make do on mono-grades just fine. Some of their engine rebuilders specifically state not to use multi's and/or synthetics for the first three oil changes...

And I have come around on the shared sump motorcycle engine thinking. Mono/GL4 or GL5 is the way to go. Something off the Allison list

Absolutely nothing to shear down at all. The Harley has separate oils for the tranny/primary and the engine. But none of my Honda's do. They are all going to straight SAE30 unless they are going to the desert to run, then it'll be SAE40...

I see absolutely no advantage for me for wide viscosity spread. I have nothing to gain - zero. But, if I can do a better job protecting the upper ring band with a mono, yah hoo. I hate tearing down a 40 year old engine an looking at 0.015~20 taper (or more) and beat up rings.

The EFI motors are pretty good at keeping the cylinders decent. But all the carb'd stuff needs help. And in my world, that's most of the engines.

And as I get older, I'm seriously leaning on backward on cars and and trucks. In part to get out of Kalif SMOG regs and part because it's stuff I can work on w/o a lap-top...

I just need to find a clean 1974 Celica fast back

 

[Red91]

I get where you're coming from. I prefer my Roadmaster to the Cruze by a great margin. Just no comparison.

 

[userfriendly]

I like the TO-4s and mono-grades with FT lifters, as it helps give them a little traction needed to make them spin.
Mixed sliding and rotating lifter to lobe action.
The convex lifter fits the lobe taper.

 

[Silk]

New oil for my 1974 motorcycle which speced 30 back in the day.

http://aegisoil.co.nz/engine-oils/diesel-engine-oils/series-2-20-30-and-40-motor-oils/

 

[SR5]

Silk, that oil is only for virgins, are you sure you qualify ?

 

[Silk]

My dear Stornello has only had one neglectfull caregiver, I'm trying to prove I'm not all bad. Says diesel on the contaainer, but on the website it's for petrol and diesel. Who knows what the base oil is, not from here anyway. I was told Caltex many years ago.

 

[BrocLuno]

Virgin oil is the pathway to jihad. Soon you'll be dreaming of 70 Virgin Oils

 

[4WD]

Been reading a number of things on DIrect Injection and the intake valve carbon.
Top tier fuel and top shelf oil - and not much else.
There is little chance for the fuel to clean the valve neck when injected below.
But your heartburn over VI makes me wonder if they have a role in the oil related build up
(Ground rubber and the like).
Could there be less build up with - say - a Royal Purple SAE30 synthetic ?

 

[BrocLuno]

Some of this may have bearing on the discussion of Conventional vs Synthetic in another thread

 

[wemay]

DELETE*

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: SR5
Silk, that oil is only for virgins, are you sure you qualify ?




Hahahahahaha! SR5, you just made coffee come up through my nose with that one!

 

[merconvvv]

What is the minimum hths for an sae 30.
And if anyone knows the actual hths for pyb sae 30 sn rated.

Was thinking of blending it or sae 40 with qsud or pp 10w30.

Read somewhere on bitog that m1 10w30 is pretty much a straight 30. If true would this also apply to m1 10w30 hm though i dont like boosted levels of seal conditioners. Is the hths improvement coming from viscosity modifiers or a heavier base oil. The viscosity index is nearly identical as are most of other properties for these two m1 oils.

I like to do atleast 2 oil changes per year while i am young

 

[zeng]

SAE requirements for xW30 is minimum HTHS of 2.9 cP.
PYB SN 30 hths is 3.35 ish cP, I suppose.