How often do you guys clean your EGR valve? Our CRV had 150K and hasn't been touched. No issues with the car. Just wondering if you do this as routine maintenance.
Thanks
Thanks
Cleaning EGR valve
- Thread starter ARB1977
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It's probably application specific as well as the driving style specific, but overall if there is not enough flow through the EGR a code will be set, thus eliminating IMO the need for any maintenance. Our Mazda 3 is over 140k and I have not touched it and I am not planning to unless I get a fault code. Some things are better left alone until there truly is a problem.
Never done in on my 1995 Escort, and I have around 237K miles in it.
In most cases, EGR systems are far more reliable than they used to be. I wouldn't mess with it unless you know you have a problem. I don't know of any specific issues with the K-series EGR system; I'd not mess with it.
That's what I figured. Thanks.
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
How often do you guys clean your EGR valve? Our CRV had 150K and hasn't been touched. No issues with the car. Just wondering if you do this as routine maintenance.
Thanks
Luckily, you don't usually have to clean the actual EGR valve, as the distribution manifold is right on top of the intake manifold on the forward side of the 2.4 engine.
The manifold shares its distribution duties with the PCV valve, so if you decide to clean it, both are right there to clean at the same time. Its about 7 10mm bolts that you only torque to 9 or 10 ft-lbs iirc, and there is a metal gasket that the factory service manual says to replace, but I have reused mine twice on a honda 2.4, and a dozen times on an older honda 2.2 OBD-1 engine with no leaks.
On the old OBD-1 engine, I could tell when it needed cleaned because there would be a stumble at 1,900 rpm where the engine was expecting egr gasses to burn and a plugged port in the manifold would be the culprit. I had no such symptoms in the new to me 2.4 engine, but figured it had never been cleaned so I had the pleasure of cleaning 130K of black gunk out of it with CRC carb/throttle body cleaner, which cuts right through the black tar that builds up in there.
None of the ports down into the intake manifold were actually plugged after 130K, but were dirty with black ashy tarish gunk, so it felt good to clean them. I think the newer models don't plug like the old motors due to cleaner burning, and the fact that the holes are about twice the size going into the manifold so it would take much longer to plug.
It makes quite a mess to hose down the manifold plate you remove, so have some cardboard or a bunch of paper towels down to catch all the gunk.
Let me know if you have any questions about the procedure!
How often do you guys clean your EGR valve? Our CRV had 150K and hasn't been touched. No issues with the car. Just wondering if you do this as routine maintenance.
Thanks
Luckily, you don't usually have to clean the actual EGR valve, as the distribution manifold is right on top of the intake manifold on the forward side of the 2.4 engine.
The manifold shares its distribution duties with the PCV valve, so if you decide to clean it, both are right there to clean at the same time. Its about 7 10mm bolts that you only torque to 9 or 10 ft-lbs iirc, and there is a metal gasket that the factory service manual says to replace, but I have reused mine twice on a honda 2.4, and a dozen times on an older honda 2.2 OBD-1 engine with no leaks.
On the old OBD-1 engine, I could tell when it needed cleaned because there would be a stumble at 1,900 rpm where the engine was expecting egr gasses to burn and a plugged port in the manifold would be the culprit. I had no such symptoms in the new to me 2.4 engine, but figured it had never been cleaned so I had the pleasure of cleaning 130K of black gunk out of it with CRC carb/throttle body cleaner, which cuts right through the black tar that builds up in there.
None of the ports down into the intake manifold were actually plugged after 130K, but were dirty with black ashy tarish gunk, so it felt good to clean them. I think the newer models don't plug like the old motors due to cleaner burning, and the fact that the holes are about twice the size going into the manifold so it would take much longer to plug.
It makes quite a mess to hose down the manifold plate you remove, so have some cardboard or a bunch of paper towels down to catch all the gunk.
Let me know if you have any questions about the procedure!
Originally Posted By: KingCake
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Like that guy the other day that went to clean his perfectly functioning MAP sensor and broke it. Somehow he blames the EGR system.
Since this is an obvious dig at me, I'll take one at you:
1. You're an idiot, because that was not a perfectly good MAP sensor. It being completely encased in rock like soot was causing idle surge that mysteriously went away the very moment the sensor was replaced.
2. The EGR system is to blame, because it is the one that discharges the soot onto the MAP sensor in the first place.
But thanks for trying to armchair diagnose a situation on a truck you've never laid hands on, and don't understand the operation of.
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Like that guy the other day that went to clean his perfectly functioning MAP sensor and broke it. Somehow he blames the EGR system.
Since this is an obvious dig at me, I'll take one at you:
1. You're an idiot, because that was not a perfectly good MAP sensor. It being completely encased in rock like soot was causing idle surge that mysteriously went away the very moment the sensor was replaced.
2. The EGR system is to blame, because it is the one that discharges the soot onto the MAP sensor in the first place.
But thanks for trying to armchair diagnose a situation on a truck you've never laid hands on, and don't understand the operation of.
Originally Posted By: KingCake
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Like that guy the other day that went to clean his perfectly functioning MAP sensor and broke it. Somehow he blames the EGR system.
If it ain't broke works if it doesn't ever actually break, but there is something to be said for preventative maintenance keeping it that way.
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Like that guy the other day that went to clean his perfectly functioning MAP sensor and broke it. Somehow he blames the EGR system.
If it ain't broke works if it doesn't ever actually break, but there is something to be said for preventative maintenance keeping it that way.
No need to touch it. My engine was idling poorly. Eventually the check engine light came on. Ended up being the EGR valve. I replaced it instead of just cleaning it. Reason being the rubber part was hard and not as 'bouncy'. Felt the rubber part of the new one. Night and day difference. Car still idled poorly after that tho. I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body. Throttle body was disgusting. Caked up inside and out. Now it idles like a dream. And the engine is much more responsive too!
EGR in gasoline engines are a totally different animal than EGR systems in diesel engines.
In short:
- EGR in gas - don't touch it unless there is a code.
- EGR in diesel - get rid of it ASAP, if you can still pass inspection.
In short:
- EGR in gas - don't touch it unless there is a code.
- EGR in diesel - get rid of it ASAP, if you can still pass inspection.
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Originally Posted By: SOHCman
Originally Posted By: KingCake
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Like that guy the other day that went to clean his perfectly functioning MAP sensor and broke it. Somehow he blames the EGR system.
If it ain't broke works if it doesn't ever actually break, but there is something to be said for preventative maintenance keeping it that way.
The EGR system doesn't require maintenance. You're one of those guys that replaces a good OEM fuel pump with some chinese no name from ebay for "maintenance".
Originally Posted By: KingCake
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Like that guy the other day that went to clean his perfectly functioning MAP sensor and broke it. Somehow he blames the EGR system.
If it ain't broke works if it doesn't ever actually break, but there is something to be said for preventative maintenance keeping it that way.
The EGR system doesn't require maintenance. You're one of those guys that replaces a good OEM fuel pump with some chinese no name from ebay for "maintenance".
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: SOHCman
Originally Posted By: KingCake
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Like that guy the other day that went to clean his perfectly functioning MAP sensor and broke it. Somehow he blames the EGR system.
If it ain't broke works if it doesn't ever actually break, but there is something to be said for preventative maintenance keeping it that way.
The EGR system doesn't require maintenance. You're one of those guys that replaces a good OEM fuel pump with some chinese no name from ebay for "maintenance".
Oh boy, more kingcake trolling. I suppose in your mind you think you speak for all mankind, never having a clogged up egr system yourSELF, no one else could possibly have had one, right? Right???
Bye, Felicia!
Originally Posted By: SOHCman
Originally Posted By: KingCake
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Like that guy the other day that went to clean his perfectly functioning MAP sensor and broke it. Somehow he blames the EGR system.
If it ain't broke works if it doesn't ever actually break, but there is something to be said for preventative maintenance keeping it that way.
The EGR system doesn't require maintenance. You're one of those guys that replaces a good OEM fuel pump with some chinese no name from ebay for "maintenance".
Oh boy, more kingcake trolling. I suppose in your mind you think you speak for all mankind, never having a clogged up egr system yourSELF, no one else could possibly have had one, right? Right???
Bye, Felicia!
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
- EGR in gas - don't touch it unless there is a code.
Yes, or if you have a tailpipe smog test at speed and it fails NOx, that is what the EGR is designed to reduce.
The EGR is designed to be inactive at idle. It is very unlikely to cause an idling problem unless stuck open.
- EGR in gas - don't touch it unless there is a code.
Yes, or if you have a tailpipe smog test at speed and it fails NOx, that is what the EGR is designed to reduce.
The EGR is designed to be inactive at idle. It is very unlikely to cause an idling problem unless stuck open.
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