'mower wont start' and i'm getting fined in 3 days

[columnshift]

hi, I have a Briggs around 4hp magnetron something or other (I cant find a manufacture plate and it was swapped onto a different mower 'body' so i'm honestly not sure, but its the same 1990's briggs'n'stratton as most others with a square plastic cover and a pull start) which of course doesn't want to start now but started fine a couple of weeks ago.

I'll skip the "poor me" story, i'm just unexpectedly short until my work check arrives friday after the grass grew more than I thought while out of town due to excessive rain. (I miscalculated out of town grass growth rate) I bought a rebuild kit with the last of my cash but the last time I tried to rebuild a carb I screwed it up so was hoping to try other stuff first. I need to get this cut by thursday.

Since I always use Stabil (Pri-G actually) to keep the gas more tolerable I was a little surprised. I'm wondering if there are 'quick and dirty fixes' and inspections that I don't know about, and alternatives short of rebuilding the carb.

Super quickie facts version:
- usually takes a few pulls to get started but thats because there's no primer button
- this time when I pull on it (and I pulled it about 80-90 times) i almost never even hear the pops of it showing it's partially touching off the mixture at least
- shooting carb cleaner in there didn't fix it
- using carb cleaner as starting ether doesn't seem to be touching it off any better
- yet there is spark! i pulled the plug wire, put a screwdriver tip in and set it near the block.. i can see the little blue spark jump to the block so it didn't suddenly lose spark

Clearly i'm too rich, or too lean. Spraying the carb cleaner (as ether) should richen it up enough (always did in past 100% of time) in light spurts that i'd assume it should touch off even if not staying running. I'm not even sure what to inspect as I suck at small engines. After extended yanking and spraying pulling the plug showed it was wet but that was after experimenting a bit too. (trying more spray since it wouldnt start as is)

What are the quick'n'dirty fixes I can try during the day tomorrow? (that if they dont work I can just barely afford the carb kit and will try again but fear failure if anyone can suggest a 'best of' rebuilding video i'm all ears too) I'll be looking for videos and how to myself of course, I just figure you guys will know things that I may not find.

 

[beanoil]

I'd try another plug. I've seen spark outside, but no spark under compression. Can you get a spray of ether from somewhere?
You only need fuel, air and spark at the right time. Flywheel keys have been known to shear, causing out of time spark. That's worth a check.

 

[expat]

Borrow another mower.

 

[69GTX]

I got to that point with my 3 year old mower. It would take dozens of pulls sometime. Finally, I took the carb apart since I already did everything else. After, all I did a few carbs on my cars in the old days. The mower never ran again. Wouldn't attempt to start...no doubt due to my man-handled carb. Bought a new mower. And I don't take carbs apart anymore...lol. In the 10 years since I've had 2 more mowers...and no issues. Use good gas, stabilize gas over winter, add some fuel and carb cleaners along the way.

 

[Nitronoise]

As an elected official , I would advise you to contact your community and ask for an extension due to financial hardships

most communities would rather do that then fine you or Lein your property and have Public works come in and mow your yard

 

[TmanP]

Next time, instead of the Stabil, find nonoxygenated gas (non-ethanol)- it's a little more per gallon but shouldn't gum your carb as much. In Minnesota, it's certain 91 octane. Look on the following link to find a station near you. http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=MN We've never drained the carb on multi-year OPE with this stuff and it starts right up in the spring. Sounds like you've tried or others have suggested most everything. Good luck.

 

[Rolla07]

See if a neighbour can mow it for you or ask to borrow their mower.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: columnshift
I cant find a manufacture plate


That kills it right there. I can't help you without the engine numbers. Briggs & Stratton makes about 300 different engines. That wall of text you put up is useless.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
That wall of text you put up

Columnshift did not put up a "wall of text". His post is logcally-composed, with lots of relevant and fairly well-written information. Just like GearHeadTool's posts.

I think Columnshift is our old buddy GearHeadTool, back again!

 

[old1]

You either have low compression, possibly carbon under a valve, or not a strong enough spark. A good spark will jump 1/4 inch. I would try a new plug, gapped to .020 gap. course it is very hard to find problems without having hands on. Check the flywheel key also.

 

[CT8]

Rent one

 

[Superflop]

Yeah pull the plug clean it with a wire brush and regap to whatever it should be 15 or 20 I'd guess. Then dump a cup or two of berrymans b12 in the tank. Drop the fuel out of the bowl, let it Refill and hope for the best. Oh yeah check your air filter isn't clogged or soaked.

 

[Lubener]

Spray some ether into the air intake and see if it tries to start. Carb cleaner won't do it. Its behavior will tell you to if you need to dig into the carb. Like stated, don't overlook that flywheel key. I have solved many problems because they "half" shear, throwing timing off. You need spark, air, fuel and compression to make things go. Make sure the plug is good, air filter isn't blocked up or the head gasket isn't blown. I can't stress enough about that flywheel key.

Don't give up like one suggested because you have no model number. Anyone who knows what they are doing can solve most of these problems without a model number. Its just an excuse because they have no solutions to offer.

 

[Ducked]

As above (apart from the "wall of text" baloney) plus you could try butane as an alternative to carb-cleaner-as-starting-fluid. Lots of aerosols (eg WD40) use it as a propellant. Check fuel delivery. If none suspect fuel filter. Check compression (thumb on plug hole might be enough for a mower engine) but if it ran recently its probably not that.

IF you have to get into the carb:-

(a) Daresay carb kits are good things, but I've never had one and I've rebuilt carbs a few times (maybe 8 or so) and so far, touch wood, they've always run afterwards. In your situation I certainly wouldn't buy one until I knew for sure it was needed.

(b) If you open it up and it doesn't look gummed it might not be worth dismantling any further.

(c) Small engine carbs (I've mostly done motorcycles) are pretty simple, but you still have to avoid loosing things and breaking things.

The first can be done by sellotapeing the bits in sequence on a piece of A4 paper with notes/labels, taking lots of digital pictures, and doing the disassembly on a soft towel so the bits dont bounce.

Best to have an uncluttered work area and FFS NO UNCOVERED DRAINS.

Avoid breaking things by only using tools that fit and allowing time for penetrating oil to do its thing.

Specifically, use a spring-loaded centre punch to drive out float pivot pins. This gives control and avoids smashing the fragile casting.

(d) Carb cleaner is of exaggerated usefulness. I only use it for soaking small components in a small whisky bottle, which I rub on another to generate ultrasonics. For general cleaning I use hot/boiling laundry detergent with a toothbrush, (old) brake fluid, water, and ethanol or acetone.

I use a 10ml hypodermic with a screw-on needle for pressure-washing jets etc.

 

[bioburner]

I wouldn't over think the issue. I have a push mower that seems to hatch out a plug every 2 years and a coil every three. Its fourteen years old. Start with plug as your already proven spark.

 

[Rand]

Are you actually using fresh gas?

 

[SHOZ]

I have a small Briggs on my pressure washer. It has a small tank on top of the fuel tank that the carb actually draws fuel from. I've found this over time with the use of ethanol gas will get a lot of water and cause starting and running issues. PITA t take it all apart too.

 

[Lubener]

I hope you got this resolved instead of being fined by Big Brother.

 

[wander2039]

What's the gasket between the carb and tank look like. I've had one with issues and the gasket was torn. Having a hard time with my Briggs and it's due to the elbow. Still starts though just rough. Also you might look at the flywheel and make sure the key isn't broke and timing isn't off.

 

[Evili]

Pave your lawn, paint it green and scrap the mower.

Problem solved.