2000 Ford Taurus SES V6
So continuing my painfully slow brake job (am disabled) and i'm trying to save $45 if it's not really needed because that needs to go to replacing my 2 dodgiest tires as highest priority.
Where we last left off with our intrepid crew, I had one brake drum sticking (rear right) but the other was spinning fine (rear left). The rear right didn't want to come off due to the 'ridge' of rust that ford taurus rotors build up HORRIFICALLY worse than other cars it seems, even with the star wheel adjuster all the way out. Eventually banged the right rear off, had the drum turned to clean it up (still within spec) and now the wheel turns properly. Just to be symmetrical I moved to the left.
The left rotor couldn't be turned because it "wobbled" on the machine though. I was only trying to clear up the rust (as hand sanding is... ehh.. better than nothing, but not as good, and wont prevent the 'ridge rust' trap for later so I could use the drums longer) it's not really hanging bad so far. But they said the front of the drum was not flat like it's supposed to be. Here's a picture:
If its not obvious from picture, the new right drum is flat on the upper face, the one on the left somehow is not... and neither me nor the auto parts guy was sure how it could have gotten like that. But me thinking is that it was already on there and not seeming to hurt anything on that side (not hanging up like the other side) because it doesn't seem like a big measurement difference... provided the wheel free spins with the brakes off, and brakes straight with the brakes on it's doing it's job, so whats the problem?
Please either correct my safety ignorance or let me know if I can probably use the left rusty drum for a bit longer. I really need the $45 the new one costs to replace my dangerous tires. Option two I wonder if I stick wood under the face and try to bang it flatter if it even matters or/and then try to re-turn the drum.
EDIT: for further comparison here's the inside of the rusty drum tho i'm sorry its not as clear as I wanted
It's got a little spiral groove from the machine cut on the inside (actually more visible on the two drums comparison picture due to the light, you can see the high points of the spiral cut
So continuing my painfully slow brake job (am disabled) and i'm trying to save $45 if it's not really needed because that needs to go to replacing my 2 dodgiest tires as highest priority.
Where we last left off with our intrepid crew, I had one brake drum sticking (rear right) but the other was spinning fine (rear left). The rear right didn't want to come off due to the 'ridge' of rust that ford taurus rotors build up HORRIFICALLY worse than other cars it seems, even with the star wheel adjuster all the way out. Eventually banged the right rear off, had the drum turned to clean it up (still within spec) and now the wheel turns properly. Just to be symmetrical I moved to the left.
The left rotor couldn't be turned because it "wobbled" on the machine though. I was only trying to clear up the rust (as hand sanding is... ehh.. better than nothing, but not as good, and wont prevent the 'ridge rust' trap for later so I could use the drums longer) it's not really hanging bad so far. But they said the front of the drum was not flat like it's supposed to be. Here's a picture:
If its not obvious from picture, the new right drum is flat on the upper face, the one on the left somehow is not... and neither me nor the auto parts guy was sure how it could have gotten like that. But me thinking is that it was already on there and not seeming to hurt anything on that side (not hanging up like the other side) because it doesn't seem like a big measurement difference... provided the wheel free spins with the brakes off, and brakes straight with the brakes on it's doing it's job, so whats the problem?
Please either correct my safety ignorance or let me know if I can probably use the left rusty drum for a bit longer. I really need the $45 the new one costs to replace my dangerous tires. Option two I wonder if I stick wood under the face and try to bang it flatter if it even matters or/and then try to re-turn the drum.
EDIT: for further comparison here's the inside of the rusty drum tho i'm sorry its not as clear as I wanted
It's got a little spiral groove from the machine cut on the inside (actually more visible on the two drums comparison picture due to the light, you can see the high points of the spiral cut