Adding drain plug to transmission pan

[Rocko1]

Originally Posted By: slinky
I've used the $10 B&M drain plug on a few of my vehicles w/o any leaks. I put a small bead of RTV around the plug just to be sure.
I think the people that have had problems with leaks have overtightened the inner nut and deformed the nylon gasket.


This. While welding the nuts is the best option-have someone do this cost $10 at the most, if installed correctly with some gasket sealer I don't see an issue. Some pans with built in drain cost close to $100.

 

[turtlevette]

You could just drill a hole and use one of those expandable rubber plugs. Then you don't have to take the pan off.


I might go that way with my vette.

 

[wander2039]

I used one of the Dorman's on the RV and it leaked. First around the inner plug and finally fixed that with teflon tape. But messing with that has loosened the outer piece. Have to take off the pan next time and remedy it. I'll just buy new pans from now on. If I had a welder I'd try that next.

 

[rkpatt]

So no vote of confidence for using JB Weld (or even JB Weld w/ copper washers) vs the nylon gaskets/washers to seal the drain plug assembly faces to the pan ?

Does JB Weld have the heat and chemical resistance to for this job (hot ATF ) ?


Yes I know that brazing or welding is the best of option to fasten and seal the plug. I just didn't want to the extra time lining up someone to braze it in if there is decent alternative

 

[wander2039]

Actually I thought about using JB Weld. Don't see why it wouldn't work. Dad used it on the old Allis Chalmers oiler and held up fine to the heat. Was like that for over 10 years till we sold it. Problem is if you can get it clean enough.

 

[FastLane]

I e heard good things about the B&M plug. My friend used JB Wels instead of the washer and it worked perfectly. He used locktite on the threads.

 

[LeakySeals]

I just did a fluid exchange at the cooler line and it was so simple I would prefer that over the drain plug even if I had one. Same process for changing the filter with no plug do the Exchange first and the pan is mostly empty when you remove it

 

[dlundblad]

I bought a pan and had a friend weld a B&M drain plug on it. Not sure if the heat warped the nut(s), but the thing wouldnt stop leaking even with tape.

For me at least, siphoning through the dip stick tube works the best.

 

[buck91]

Originally Posted By: Bluestream
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...618#Post1895618


Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Kestas, Here is what I have been using for drain plugs. Brass reducer fitting with a fine thread hex plug that threads in. These can be bought at any auto or plumbing place, and can be had in smaller or larger sizes. I weld in the bung, but I expect it could be soldered in as well. Has a lower profile than the B&M plug kit, and is 1/3 the price.

I like that! NPT threads shouldn't leak to start with, plus a good threadlocker to keep it from backing out and it looks like a winning. The only concern I would have is most pans are either thin stamped steel which wouldn't offer much engagement or the cast aluminum pans where I'd worry about stress cracking at the fitting?

 

[MRtv]

Why can't you just go to a pick a part place and take a pan off an old vehicle. I have done that many times to get parts for my 97 F150 Junk yards are full of them. Drill that pan and put the drain plug in. I would think JB Weld would work well.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: beanoil
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
If you can have a nut welded in that might be better. I put one of those kits on a vehicle and it wouldnt stop leaking. Not enough that it needed top up but still made a mess of the underside.

This is my experience also. I never could stop the weeping from the B&M kit, even with copper washers. Aftermarket pan or welding is the sure way.


I had a friend weld a B&M plug to a new pan and the darn plug itself wouldn't stop leaking.

Perhaps the plug assy. became warped from excess heat?