'01 Mustang Gt - New ticking noise after last OCI

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Originally Posted By: Twisted1
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
You're running 4w16 now.


I am?



Well, maybe not exactly, but MMO thins out your oil further.
 
My personal favourite for the Modular is Mobil 1 AFE 0w-30, which I run in my high mileage 5.4L, and it consumes zero between changes.
 
Originally Posted By: Twisted1
Can someone school me on the would 0w be considered as a thicker oil than a 5w?


The number in front of the W is the "Winter" rating of the oil, and its ability to flow at extremely low temperatures. The artifact of this is that these oils are generally comprised of higher end base stocks to obtain that rating.

A 0w-xx meets the CCS requirements for -35C and the MRV requirements for -40C. A 5w-xx in comparison, meets the CCS requirements for -30C and the MRV requirements for -35C.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Sooo under certain conditions / temperatures the 5w would be thinner?


It is possible, as MRV/CCS don't directly correlate with VI, so it is possible for a 5w-30 to be thinner at 40C and/or 100C than a 0w-30. Heck, one can be thinner at both if comparing a Euro PCMO 0w-30 like GC to your typical ILSAC 5w-30 with a lower HTHS.

The 0w-xx designation denotes the ability to perform below the CCS and MRV limits cited, and while CCS/MRV roughly halve per a 5C increase in temperature, there's a crossover point somewhere around -15C to -10C where that no longer applies.
 
Use your current 5W20 fill as a "wash" to get the mmo out. After a day or so,drain it and replace it with your fave brand of 10W30 and an MC filter.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Use your current 5W20 fill as a "wash" to get the mmo out. After a day or so,drain it and replace it with your fave brand of 10W30 and an MC filter.


I think that's the best idea to be honest.
 
So just to update everyone, I tightened my spark plugs and the ticking sort of went away. Cyl #6 spark plug came out with just the turn of my hand. I'm leaning towards the timing chain tensioners being worn causing the chain to have too much lash and slap against the guide.
 
Originally Posted By: Twisted1
So just to update everyone, I tightened my spark plugs and the ticking sort of went away. Cyl #6 spark plug came out with just the turn of my hand. I'm leaning towards the timing chain tensioners being worn causing the chain to have too much lash and slap against the guide.
What do you mean by "sort of went away"? If it went away, went away, when you tightened your spark plugs, perhaps there's a relationship there to consider.
 
Maybe the full synthetic is causing some noise even though it's now a different brand? Years ago when I used Mobil 1 in two different GM vehicles which required two different viscosity, the engines in both vehicles were more noisy after the change. I switched back to a conventional and the extra noises went away.

Recently I changed my Honda ATV over to a full synthetic and now I have more engine ticking noises than before. I may be changing it back to a conventional at the next change.

Wayne
 
I have Motorcraft full syn 5w20 in there right now with a Motorcraft oil filter. I picked up a 5qt jug PP 10w30 Full Syn (They didn't have PU) and have another Motorcraft oil filter waiting for the change.

As far as saying that "it sort of went away" I mean that it reduced the noise some but I still here noise. Maybe there are multiple issues?

Possibilities:

- Worn timing chain tensioners?
- Worn cam followers?
 
It would be unlikely for the roller followers to be worn, they typically last the life of the engine quite easily. It could be a sticking or failed HLA though.
 
Are these taper seat plugs, or gasket plugs? I'd pull them all and look real good at the seats with a mirror and strong light.

You can get a Snap-On plug thread and seat tool that will clean the threads and tidy up the seat. A bit of Never Seize on the threads and back in and any leaking plugs (which can sound like a tick) will be gone
smile.gif
 
They are taper seat NGK plugs. The weird thing is, is that when I pulled the plugs out to re-seat them, they had dried anti-seize on the threads...
 
previous experience with 4.6 modular motors 01,02 , and 03 had issues with the tensioners , they sound like a sewing machine . best bet is to pull the front covers off of the motor to inspect , more then likely you will find them worn through and if you do a lab on your oil you will find metal and plastic in your oil if the tensioners are worn

we had this issues in a lot of squad cars from that era in our villages fleet . being out east the 5W will help in winter starts , the 30 will provide very adequate lubrication at operating temps , still look at the timing chains and tensioners
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I previously posted this above
ford spec'd 5w30 for the 4.6 modular motors and then in o5?? back spec'd everything to 5w20 for CAFE fuel economy requirements , we always ran 5W30 in all the cars with an Motorcraft 820 filter in the fleet
 
Thought I'd update everyone:

Having a baby soon and just moved into a house so all of my time and energy has been spent there (patching holes, primer and painting walls). However, I was able to figure out the issue and it was indeed the timing tensioners and timing chain guides. The passenger side was chewed up pretty bad so I bought all new OEM stuff to replace it with. Noise gone.
 
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