EGR Fouled Up my MAP Sensor Nicely

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I had been advised that cleaning the MAP sensor after the intercooler of my 07.5 Ram 2500 (6.7 Cummins) would be a good idea.

I was not prepared for this:



I had heard the stories of the nasty encrusted crud that is formed when the EGR soot joins with the oily mist that comes through the crankcase vent through the turbo, but whoa.

But what the heck? Let's try cleaning it out.



If you're thinking, "Hey, it looks like that MAP sensor is only 90% clean and completely runined.", you would be correct. It seems the MAF cleaner and chiseling away the igneous armor resulted in complete failure, including some nice codes for powertrain and MAP sensor. She's going to be sitting until my new Genuine Cummins replacement comes in tomorrow.

Should go nicely with the replacement turbo speed sensor that failed after cleaning the oil slick out of the turbo.

Delete or not to delete? That is the question.......
whistle.gif
 
Seems to me you broke the MAP, not the EGR since it was working fine before lmao. If it aint' broke don't fix it.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I had been advised that cleaning the MAP sensor after the intercooler of my 07.5 Ram 2500 (6.7 Cummins) would be a good idea.

I was not prepared for this:



I had heard the stories of the nasty encrusted crud that is formed when the EGR soot joins with the oily mist that comes through the crankcase vent through the turbo, but whoa.

But what the heck? Let's try cleaning it out.



If you're thinking, "Hey, it looks like that MAP sensor is only 90% clean and completely runined.", you would be correct. It seems the MAF cleaner and chiseling away the igneous armor resulted in complete failure, including some nice codes for powertrain and MAP sensor. She's going to be sitting until my new Genuine Cummins replacement comes in tomorrow.

Should go nicely with the replacement turbo speed sensor that failed after cleaning the oil slick out of the turbo.

Delete or not to delete? That is the question.......
whistle.gif



That is the question:) I deleted my 09 6.4 Powerstroke 2 years ago and have had zero issues. The Cummins is a far better engine, so not sure how it's effected by the DPF and EGR, but for the 6.4 Ltr it is certain death. How many mile on your Cummins?
 
If you have no inspections, delete it. It is, however a federal offense, so choose wisely.
EGR to your engine is the same as smoking for your lungs.
 
EGR is a [censored] joke anyway, the benefit is so minimal that it shouldn't even be used anymore and especially on a sooty diesel!! DELETE it if you can! You'll save yourself a lot of money and headache in the long run! First thing I did when I got my Ford PSD! No engine should have to ingest its own [censored]!
 
I have one of those OBDII code scanners that lets you view live data. It's easy enough to just run the car while looking at the live data and concluding that the MAP sensor is working and leave it alone.
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Seems to me you broke the MAP, not the EGR since it was working fine before lmao. If it aint' broke don't fix it.


That all sounds good until one of those solid chunks breaks free and gets sucked into the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
I have one of those OBDII code scanners that lets you view live data. It's easy enough to just run the car while looking at the live data and concluding that the MAP sensor is working and leave it alone.


Working yes, but working correctly? No.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
I have one of those OBDII code scanners that lets you view live data. It's easy enough to just run the car while looking at the live data and concluding that the MAP sensor is working and leave it alone.


Working yes, but working correctly? No.


Possibly so, but I also did the same test with the engine off and the MAP sensor connected to a MityVac and also got good results from that was well.
 
Now that is something I have never tried. Could definitely save some hassle.

In this case, the part was in a condition that I would clearly call "done". Got a genuine Cummins sealed replacement for $27, so whatever. If I knew it was that cheap, I would have just left it out, ordered the part, and changed it without further action. Truck ended up with a day off to get a sun tan anyway.
 
The water/meth is a guarantee.

First order of business is to stud the cylinder head. I'm not throwing anything at this truck until the head is studded with the same ARP 625 kit I used in my 3500.

I don't even want to know what my grid heater must look like, but I will find out. The thing that spooks me the most about this carbon buildup is that engines have died from chunks breaking loose and being ingested by the engine.
 
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