Rule of thumb for tightening oil drain plug?

[paulri]

I just got the drain plug tightened to the point where for the last few days, it has no longer been leaking oil.

As I was tightening it a second time, I was careful because when I read instructions on changing your oil, people often warned against tightening it too much, and stripping the threads on the drain pan.

Tightening the filter was easy. I remember the 3/4 turn after it makes contact with the base, and I was able to tighten the filter in a few seconds. No dripping oil.

Is there a rule of thumb like this, for the drain plug? I suppose after doing it a few more times, I might just get the feel for precisely how tight to get it, but I'm wondering if there is anything that can help me out. In a couple of videos, I saw people refer to manual instructions like pound-feet of torque, but there was nothing like that in my manual.

 

[supton]

Did you change the crush washer? I sometimes do, sometimes don't. I figure it's good (maybe) for a couple of uses; and I suspect a good many get way more than that.

I usually give a tug on the wrench. Eighth turn, maybe?

 

[stephen9666]

If you look in a service manual there will be a torque spec for the drain plug.

 

[JC1]

Which vehicle and are you using a new crush washer and what type of material is the new crush washer? On a honda with a metal washer 21ft lbs works. If the Toyota has a plastic washer, then just snug it up.

 

[danthaman1980]

^^^ Good question here.

If your drain plug uses a metallic crush washer, you need to change it periodically. I change the crush washer on my Mazda at every oil change, but some people re-use theirs.

If you drain plug uses a rubber gasket, that might last indefinitely. I finally changed the rubber gasket on my Chevy at about 200,000 miles. Never any leaks, just finally decided to change it.

 

[Trav]

I tighten them snug + just a little more, similar to a spark plug that uses a crush washer. Aluminum pans a torque wrench always if its an unfamiliar pan, on my VW my 40+ yr of experience hands have a good idea how tight is tight enough. On some other engines its TW time every time, they will strip quicker than bad case of diarrhea sends you to the toilet.

 

[3800Series]

I typically use the two finger rule. I also use it with spark plugs. Just put two fingers at the end of the wrench and turn until it feels tight.

Grab a gallon of milk and hold it in two finger tips move it up and down. That's about as much pressure you want to use.

 

[Kawiguy454]

As important as getting the plug tightened is to make sure the washer is CLEAN. I usually clean the washer and bolt then put the washer on the bolt and rotate it while applying pressure. Tiny bits of dirt feel crunchy and odd and if its clean you'll feel it also. Remember the old oil is full of particles so clean them. Copper or bronze washers are used so any particles crush into the metal and they will still seal. I clean them so I never replace the washer/crush washer and they don't leak.

 

[paulri]

Originally Posted By: 3800Series
I typically use the two finger rule. I also use it with spark plugs. Just put two fingers at the end of the wrench and turn until it feels tight.

Grab a gallon of milk and hold it in two finger tips move it up and down. That's about as much pressure you want to use.


That's helpful. I'll see how that works next time.

No, I didn't change the crush washer. I didn't see instructions in the manual to do that, although I will probably change it next time. I will definitely change it when I do the Honda oil.

The vehicle I just changed was teh Toyota. I am pretty sure there was a metal washer against teh drain plug itself.

 

[CR94]

Originally Posted By: Kawiguy454
As important as getting the plug tightened is to make sure the washer is CLEAN. I usually clean the washer and bolt then put the washer on the bolt and rotate it while applying pressure. Tiny bits of dirt feel crunchy ... I clean them so I never replace the washer/crush washer and they don't leak.
Excellent point. When I finally said good-bye to my Mazda at 606K, it still had its original aluminum drain-plug washer, which didn't leak.

 

[pcoxe]

I've put teflon tape on the threads of some plugs that tended to seep oil. Only around the base so no fragments could get in the pan.

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: pcoxe
I've put teflon tape on the threads of some plugs that tended to seep oil. Only around the base so no fragments could get in the pan.


Unless it's pipe thread, like on a lawnmower, the threads just serve to pull the gasket tight against its sealing surface. Better to fix leaks at said gasket surface unless it's hopeless.

 

[Ken2]

Oil plug gaskets are copper, aluminum, fiber, rubber inside steel. Copper is OK on a steel pan; not my choice for an aluminum pan, may take too much tightening to squeeze the copper into imperfections in the seating faces. Copper can be annealed by heating it red hot and dropping it into water, just the opposite of annealing steel.

 

[DP78]

I've found that some cars get a cheap replacement washer that needs replacing each time. Like a fiber gasket. I replaced the washer on my bike as a matter of course. The replacements they gave me were better than stock. Still ok the first one. I just bought a bunch of oil filters for my Honda. Came free with washers.

 

[BrocLuno]

I haven't changed a crush washer in as far back as I can remember ... I put a dab of Permatex Ultra Black RTV on the threads and run it home. Easy on the tight, like they said two fingers. Always stays, never leaks, easy off next time

 

[Eddie]

I wonder if we're getting mixed up with washers. A crush washer has a rolled cross section and you can feel it collapsing as you snug it up. A flat wash is just a plane flat washer. Totally different tighting specs for each type. Ed

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I haven't changed a crush washer in as far back as I can remember ... I put a dab of Permatex Ultra Black RTV on the threads and run it home. Easy on the tight, like they said two fingers. Always stays, never leaks, easy off next time

Then you havent changed a subaru lately eh?



Originally Posted By: Eddie
I wonder if we're getting mixed up with washers. A crush washer has a rolled cross section and you can feel it collapsing as you snug it up. A flat wash is just a plane flat washer. Totally different tighting specs for each type. Ed


Both types can be called crush washers.

My subaru has the type that actually crushes. The Hyundai is just a flat aluminum washer..

both can be called crush washers in this application.

(actually the hyundai is called a oil plug drain gasket)

 

[901Memphis]

I usually feel for the torque I like. I use a ratchet and make sure not to hold it too far away from the plug so I can only tighten it so much.

 

[blupupher]

Good-n-tight as they say.
I know most all drain plugs will have a torque spec, and as said above, some need the washer changed each oil change.
I know on my '04 Elantra, it has an aluminum washer that was supposed to be changed each oil change (dealer gave me a washer no charge with each filter I bought from them). For a while I would flip the washer and reuse it once.

I now use Fumoto's on my vehicles.

 

[ecotourist]

I have aluminum oil pans on both my vehicles so I use a torque wrench. The recommended torque is actually a bit tighter than I would have done by feel. The reason I know is I tighten the plug by hand and check with the torque wrench - which wouldn't be a very good idea if I was tightening it too much!

I reuse the washers over and over. I always take them off the drain plug and clean them very well.