Looks fine to me...clean it out with break cleaner and re-assemble and run it
stuck 2000 ford taurus drum.. vs special tool?
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Originally Posted By: columnshift
Originally Posted By: punisher
Guys it ain't too tough. Two screwdrivers, one smaller. Small screwdriver in the slot first to press back the "lever" that contacts the adjustment wheel. Another screwdriver to rotate the wheel. You can get a generic brake tool, kind of like this: https://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-KDT287-A...keywords=KDT287 that will work to. Takes a bit of feel, almost like lock picking, to do it easy.
Only not too tough when you know what to feel for!
I still dont, I tried fiddling around with the brake drum off and I still couldn't figure out (by feel with my eyes closed) how to get the lever up while moving the starwheel.
Didn't matter though, it's off, and I can adjust from the front now.
Now is the perfect time to learn. With theach drum off you can fish the tools in from the backside and see what needs to be done on the front.
There will be an arm that is pressing on the starwheel. You need to push that away while using another tool to spin the starwheel.
Originally Posted By: punisher
Guys it ain't too tough. Two screwdrivers, one smaller. Small screwdriver in the slot first to press back the "lever" that contacts the adjustment wheel. Another screwdriver to rotate the wheel. You can get a generic brake tool, kind of like this: https://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-KDT287-A...keywords=KDT287 that will work to. Takes a bit of feel, almost like lock picking, to do it easy.
Only not too tough when you know what to feel for!
Didn't matter though, it's off, and I can adjust from the front now.
Now is the perfect time to learn. With theach drum off you can fish the tools in from the backside and see what needs to be done on the front.
There will be an arm that is pressing on the starwheel. You need to push that away while using another tool to spin the starwheel.
That's plenty enough brake lining.
Grinding, filing, sanding off the ridge is fine, even if you intrude a little on the wearing surface. You don't even need to take all of it all, most off is enough.
I usually use a mounted stone or a sanding drum, the larger the diameter the better.
For a really good job, pull each shoe away from the backing plate with a prybar or flat screwdriver, and put a LITTLE BIT of brake grease on the bearing surface. By LITTLE BIT, I mean just a little smear.
Grinding, filing, sanding off the ridge is fine, even if you intrude a little on the wearing surface. You don't even need to take all of it all, most off is enough.
I usually use a mounted stone or a sanding drum, the larger the diameter the better.
For a really good job, pull each shoe away from the backing plate with a prybar or flat screwdriver, and put a LITTLE BIT of brake grease on the bearing surface. By LITTLE BIT, I mean just a little smear.
You have to peel back the wheel cylinder dust boots to check for leaks.
If those brake shoes do not use rivets to hold the friction material to the backing plate, you have a huge amount of brake shoe life left. If you find a leak at a wheel cylinder, replace it immediately, or it will soon ruin the brake shoe by fluid contamination. If any kind of lubricant gets on a brake friction lining, the lining is ruined.
If those brake shoes do not use rivets to hold the friction material to the backing plate, you have a huge amount of brake shoe life left. If you find a leak at a wheel cylinder, replace it immediately, or it will soon ruin the brake shoe by fluid contamination. If any kind of lubricant gets on a brake friction lining, the lining is ruined.
JUST SHARING UPDATES!
This thread can be considered "done" but I like to finish out threads with the information that worked for me (and pictures of maybe whatever state things were in for comparison) in case anybody goes looking for similar answers and finds my threads.
I finally got the drum off with a combination of a 2.5lb sledge with pulling on the opposing side (so that it couldn't slip back and lose progress as the smacks made it jiggle around). Thankfully the drum seemed still usable afterwards/not destroyed so I guess it takes a moderate beating safely.
Lessons learned:
- First off, after I smacked the drum off, rain was coming, so I put the drum back on for protection. MISTAKE! It got as stuck as it was the first time before I could resume it 3 days later!
(this is after hand sanding down the rust ridge as much as I could by hand, which wasnt much/just cleaned up some of the roughness is all I could achieve) So DONT PUT IT BACK ON.
- I had the drum turned at the local shop, a few thousands cleaned it up nicely in a way hand sanding failed to.
- I discovered what I was doing wrong once I had the drum off - nothing! The reason my starwheel adjuster wouldn't adjust any further to loosen the drum is that it was already at the maximum backing off! I tried messing with it from the front and there was no more backing off possible. (this is what made me decide to turn the drums as hand sanding still wouldnt let the drum fit back on without sticking/hanging up bad)
- After turning that drum, it slipped right on with the cleaned up surface. The tire and wheel seems to spin freely now for the most part like it should.
Since apparently Fords have a HORRIBLE problem with those rust ridges building up and adjusting the starwheel from the back is such a PITA due to poor poor design, i've decided in the future to do prevention. I'm going to pull the rotors periodically and turn them whenever theyre showing signs of starting to hang up with a new rust ridge. Since it took 120k to get to this place i'm pretty sure every 30k from now on is plenty of inspection interval to just pull off, look, and put back on. Turning them if theyre starting to "ridge up". I think this would prevent alot of future trouble for other Ford owners too.
Here are the pics to show
This is the drum before I turned it. The rust ridge was bad enough to catch the shoes even with the starwheel 100% backed off and was making the drum heat up from a few miles of light driving at city speeds/wouldn't freespin on the jack.
It cleaned up nicely! Slid right back on, spins freely now, comes back off when I pull to inspect.
This thread can be considered "done" but I like to finish out threads with the information that worked for me (and pictures of maybe whatever state things were in for comparison) in case anybody goes looking for similar answers and finds my threads.
I finally got the drum off with a combination of a 2.5lb sledge with pulling on the opposing side (so that it couldn't slip back and lose progress as the smacks made it jiggle around). Thankfully the drum seemed still usable afterwards/not destroyed so I guess it takes a moderate beating safely.
Lessons learned:
- First off, after I smacked the drum off, rain was coming, so I put the drum back on for protection. MISTAKE! It got as stuck as it was the first time before I could resume it 3 days later!
- I had the drum turned at the local shop, a few thousands cleaned it up nicely in a way hand sanding failed to.
- I discovered what I was doing wrong once I had the drum off - nothing! The reason my starwheel adjuster wouldn't adjust any further to loosen the drum is that it was already at the maximum backing off! I tried messing with it from the front and there was no more backing off possible. (this is what made me decide to turn the drums as hand sanding still wouldnt let the drum fit back on without sticking/hanging up bad)
- After turning that drum, it slipped right on with the cleaned up surface. The tire and wheel seems to spin freely now for the most part like it should.
Since apparently Fords have a HORRIBLE problem with those rust ridges building up and adjusting the starwheel from the back is such a PITA due to poor poor design, i've decided in the future to do prevention. I'm going to pull the rotors periodically and turn them whenever theyre showing signs of starting to hang up with a new rust ridge. Since it took 120k to get to this place i'm pretty sure every 30k from now on is plenty of inspection interval to just pull off, look, and put back on. Turning them if theyre starting to "ridge up". I think this would prevent alot of future trouble for other Ford owners too.
Here are the pics to show
This is the drum before I turned it. The rust ridge was bad enough to catch the shoes even with the starwheel 100% backed off and was making the drum heat up from a few miles of light driving at city speeds/wouldn't freespin on the jack.
It cleaned up nicely! Slid right back on, spins freely now, comes back off when I pull to inspect.
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