is this drum unusable? (for 00 ford taurus)

[columnshift]

2000 Ford Taurus SES V6

So continuing my painfully slow brake job (am disabled) and i'm trying to save $45 if it's not really needed because that needs to go to replacing my 2 dodgiest tires as highest priority.

Where we last left off with our intrepid crew, I had one brake drum sticking (rear right) but the other was spinning fine (rear left). The rear right didn't want to come off due to the 'ridge' of rust that ford taurus rotors build up HORRIFICALLY worse than other cars it seems, even with the star wheel adjuster all the way out. Eventually banged the right rear off, had the drum turned to clean it up (still within spec) and now the wheel turns properly. Just to be symmetrical I moved to the left.

The left rotor couldn't be turned because it "wobbled" on the machine though. I was only trying to clear up the rust (as hand sanding is... ehh.. better than nothing, but not as good, and wont prevent the 'ridge rust' trap for later so I could use the drums longer) it's not really hanging bad so far. But they said the front of the drum was not flat like it's supposed to be. Here's a picture:

If its not obvious from picture, the new right drum is flat on the upper face, the one on the left somehow is not... and neither me nor the auto parts guy was sure how it could have gotten like that. But me thinking is that it was already on there and not seeming to hurt anything on that side (not hanging up like the other side) because it doesn't seem like a big measurement difference... provided the wheel free spins with the brakes off, and brakes straight with the brakes on it's doing it's job, so whats the problem?

Please either correct my safety ignorance or let me know if I can probably use the left rusty drum for a bit longer. I really need the $45 the new one costs to replace my dangerous tires. Option two I wonder if I stick wood under the face and try to bang it flatter if it even matters or/and then try to re-turn the drum.

EDIT: for further comparison here's the inside of the rusty drum tho i'm sorry its not as clear as I wanted

It's got a little spiral groove from the machine cut on the inside (actually more visible on the two drums comparison picture due to the light, you can see the high points of the spiral cut

 

[Rolla07]

Not sure id use it. Maybe check out scrap yards to see if they might have one that doesnt wobble? Might save you a few bucks.Rock auto has one for 16$..not sure bout shipping though.

 

[oilboy123]

Don't know if this is the one you need. Just an example though. Lot less than $45 though. I would not even think twice about using that, or banging on it. Just get a new one.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/cart/?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2Fen%2Fcatalog%2Fford

 

[Superflop]

That drum looks cracked. Where the the hat meets the side, right on the shoulder across the bottom arc. Anyways buy the cheap one off rockauto but I wouldn't use that drum.

 

[bioburner]

While you check out local salvage yards you can see if they have any decent tires. I have found several near new tires at local yards. CL is a pretty good tool in MN. Getting a used engine today with 38k on it for $400 with 30 day warranty. Just getting the head repaired(bad valve) on the engine with 179k on it was going to cost that and still have to worry about timing chain and injectors etc

 

[columnshift]

Originally Posted By: Superflop
That drum looks cracked. Where the the hat meets the side, right on the shoulder across the bottom arc. Anyways buy the cheap one off rockauto but I wouldn't use that drum.


I pulled it back off in person to recheck but I don't think it's a crack, just an open place between corner gunk.. even if i'm not quite sure if it's factory casting flash or solidified brake dust that's sorta built up around the rim. Looking on the outside of the drum everything is intact/no sign of crack I can see.

I'm not planning on using this drum indefinately, just trying to place the relative importance vs needing tires first. Not to sound trivial but unless i'm risking mechanical failure of the brake (like if it were a crack or I don't keep an eye on it) i'm just trying to get a couple more months out of it until i'm past other emergencies of "everything hitting at once"/behind on all bills already.

 

[mk378]

It's not an either/or choice. You need good brakes AND tires to have a safe car.

 

[artificialist]

Even if you were trying to save the old drum, you would need to measure the inside diameter to see if there is enough material left. If there is extreme runout, machining the drum until it is flat could easily make the drum wider than factory specifications allow.

 

[53' Stude]

Yes, please ensure drum is NOT cracked. In PA, grooves deeper than .015" is a failure and not safe. When in doubt replace the drums/drum.

 

[columnshift]

I doubt there's issues with the inside diameter being not okay, the starwheels are all the way out to contact and the one on the other side which I had turned I was told still had plenty of metal left/barely needed any cleaning up/was barely even worn outside of the rust ridge issue.

I see no evidence the drum is cracked.

I had to return the new drum already for refund to pay for someone to mow my lawn (stupid, but the city was going to fine me $200 friday and no neighbor would borrow me theirs) problem I posted on here, so i'd have to rebuy it to have a new drum. I now don't have the money to rebuy a new drum. It sounds asinine that i'm in a situation this poor but without this 2nd car working I no longer have a way to get to medical treatment I need which I can only have done out of town from where I am. (my GF needs this one to go to work so I can take the other car to go to treatment, right now she's driving mine)


I can't see how a couple mm difference of the face 'seeming' off can be a catastrophic danger - i'm wanting to just put the drum back on and test the brakes in normal and panic stops. If I sense no wobble, or wierd noises, and it seems to stop straight and true i'm wanting to drive it that way for two months until reevaluating things/can pull drums back on and see if there's been unequal wear and similar. If I sense any immediate problem (wobble, unequal braking, noises indicating a problem) I'll park the car.

Can anyone explain to me whether to expect anything other than just enhanced drum and shoe wear (which i'd have to replace anyways to keep everything even - just doing it now creates a new hardship doing it later is no big deal) if I drive it like this for two months/if there is no other sign of anything being wrong? I'm not trying to be stupid or take my life into my hands (or my GF), I just need a limpable second car until I solve the other problems that got dumped in my lap suddenly. Not having a car and not making medical treatment puts me in potential danger as equal to a car crash so there is no right or winning answer, just risk minimization. >_< If I can perceive nothing obviously wrong from the few mm off brake drum - if it brakes well after putting it on and it's not cracked I mean - what is the problem or danger?

 

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: columnshift
2000 Ford Taurus SES V6
The left rotor couldn't be turned because it "wobbled" on the machine though. I was only trying to clear up the rust (as hand sanding is... ehh.. better than nothing, but not as good, and wont prevent the 'ridge rust' trap for later so I could use the drums longer) it's not really hanging bad so far. But they said the front of the drum was not flat like it's supposed to be. Here's a picture:

That's because setting-up by the turner is flawed. Go look for another competent turner.

Quote:
But me thinking is that it was already on there and not seeming to hurt anything on that side (not hanging up like the other side) because it doesn't seem like a big measurement difference... provided the wheel free spins with the brakes off, and brakes straight with the brakes on it's doing it's job, so whats the problem?


I see no problem here.
Quote:
I can't see how a couple mm difference of the face 'seeming' off can be a catastrophic danger - i'm wanting to just put the drum back on and test the brakes in normal and panic stops. If I sense no wobble, or wierd noises, and it seems to stop straight and true i'm wanting to drive it that way for two months until reevaluating things/can pull drums back on and see if there's been unequal wear and similar. If I sense any immediate problem (wobble, unequal braking, noises indicating a problem) I'll park the car.


This is a viable option.
The 'uneven' and 'seeming off' face is NOT a mating surface. It's of no relevance.
A turner using this 'seeming off' face for setting-up is incompetent.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[demarpaint]

Have you measured that drum to see if it is safe to turn and re-use, and checked it for cracks? Looking at the pic it doesn't look to me like that drum is worth turning. Although it's hard to tell from the pic it looks a little too thin to me in places.

 

[columnshift]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Have you measured that drum to see if it is safe to turn and re-use, and checked it for cracks? Looking at the pic it doesn't look to me like that drum is worth turning. Although it's hard to tell from the pic it looks a little too thin to me in places.


The other side was turned with no problems/only needed a little to clean up the surface. I assume they are worn somewhat evenly.

 

[Nick1994]

Rear brakes don't even do that much. You might lose 1% of braking power. If that.

That's if after driving it it stops fine.

Wait 2 months and replace it.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: columnshift
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Have you measured that drum to see if it is safe to turn and re-use, and checked it for cracks? Looking at the pic it doesn't look to me like that drum is worth turning. Although it's hard to tell from the pic it looks a little too thin to me in places.


The other side was turned with no problems/only needed a little to clean up the surface. I assume they are worn somewhat evenly.

Like I said tough to tell from a pic. Measuring and a good visual inspection is the only way to tell. If it passes the visual inspection and has enough meat left to turn it go for it.

 

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: columnshift
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Have you measured that drum to see if it is safe to turn and re-use, and checked it for cracks? Looking at the pic it doesn't look to me like that drum is worth turning. Although it's hard to tell from the pic it looks a little too thin to me in places.


The other side was turned with no problems/only needed a little to clean up the surface. I assume they are worn somewhat evenly.


IME, your points are valid.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: columnshift
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Have you measured that drum to see if it is safe to turn and re-use, and checked it for cracks? Looking at the pic it doesn't look to me like that drum is worth turning. Although it's hard to tell from the pic it looks a little too thin to me in places.


The other side was turned with no problems/only needed a little to clean up the surface. I assume they are worn somewhat evenly.


IME, your points are valid.

I thought they were.

 

[columnshift]

Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: columnshift
2000 Ford Taurus SES V6
The left rotor couldn't be turned because it "wobbled" on the machine though. I was only


That's because setting-up by the turner is flawed. Go look for another competent turner.

Quote:
I can't see how a couple mm difference of the face 'seeming' off can be a catastrophic danger - i'm wanting to just put the drum back on and test the brakes in normal and panic stops. If I sense no wobble, or wierd noises, and it seems to stop straight and true i'm wanting to drive it that way for two months until reevaluating things/can pull drums back on and see if there's been unequal wear and similar. If I sense any immediate problem (wobble, unequal braking, noises indicating a problem) I'll park the car.


This is a viable option.
The 'uneven' and 'seeming off' face is NOT a mating surface. It's of no relevance.
A turner using this 'seeming off' face for setting-up is incompetent.
Just my 2 cents.

THANK YOU.

For what it's worth here's the followup.

I took the brake rotor to a a brake and alignment specialist shop and told him straight up my situation and that I didn't have enough money for a new drum. He looked at it funny for a few seconds, gave it about 7-8 whacks with what looked to be a 1 1/4lb deadblow hammer, then put it on his own turning machine because the face was back to "flat enough". (which to me looked about as good as new, maybe with a tiny ding or bump around the raised metal lip and such in the very center but looking equally flat)

The drum turned just fine and true and round on his machine. He measured and said it didn't exceed authorized factory limits. (FWIW I don't understand why people get all hung up on turning rotors and drums just because theyre thinner than they used to be - they still have absolute limits which if you turn less than that, youre safe/the mechanics of the brakes were designed to work with up to that limit. Thermal performance I doubt is more than 5% different - youre shaving off maybe tens of grams of weight, drums are heavy, removing even hundredths is not going to significantly impair anything. /Rant mode off)

He told me straight up to test it properly first to be safe and no charge until I do because he did his best job to flatten the center mountpoint to prevent wobble. I put it back on, it required a number of starwheel clicks (i could see three threads now visibly exposed which still leaves notable room left - the pads remember were still barely used) to get it to just tighten up unlike the other side (which bordered on tight even still backed off and machined honestly) - I put on the wheel, put on the lug nuts, and took it for a drive. Did some 40 to 0 stopping in a row to lightly season in things after which it grabbed noticibly better (after cooling down). Zero wobble, zero rattle, zero unequal braking (hands off goes straight after the first two stops of probably the auto adjuster or ABS system just adapting), brakes strong enough to lock up the tires.

If someone thinks what i'm doing is still unsafe you're free to tell me why - the drum face got moved out 2-3mm then banged back into place, turned drum and turns true and within spec. I'm pretty sure it will last me two months. Now I can just focus on getting the rear tires at least replaced ASAP.


FWIW i'll have a few last pictures to share, i'll either EDIT it in or make a new post if it's too late.

 

[columnshift]

Here's the drum after it got banged back flat, I didn't get a picture of the turned surface to come out but it shouldn't matter/shiny as it should be:

To the questions of 'is there cracks' in the old drum, the brand new one had similar in different places of what I have to assume is casting flash of some sort:

And since I was talking about how quickly the discs on this car rust, here's the fronts about a week later!

Thankfully the hard braking sequential stops wiped all the rust off it/it wasn't back to grindy or needing another turning, but dang do these rotors ever seem to rust faster than any other car i've had.

 

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: columnshift
The drum turned just fine and true and round on his machine. He measured and said it didn't exceed authorized factory limits......

I put it back on .....Zero wobble, zero rattle, zero unequal braking (hands off goes straight after the first two stops of probably the auto adjuster or ABS system just adapting)...

I'm pretty sure it will last me two months......


Glad that minimal expense is incurred.
It'll last you tens of years to come.... with regular brake shoe replacement.
Just monitor its typical braking distance ...