Feeling defeated.

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Been in the engine business for a long time try calling a fuel injector company and talk to them its free try it now or do it after you spend $1000.00 someone that is a lot of help and will walk you through it is named Bill from mr injector i don't know him but he always had answers for us. I don't know if it violates board rules to post phone numbers but you can look it up or pm me if its not against any rules here. You can also look up simular businesses they are out there.
 
How about keeping your foot on the accelerator to keep it from dieing? Or do you want to continue to spend on parts you don't need and waste time chasing gremlins?

Eventually it'll throw more codes or something will fail. Why get in a big toot to fix a marginal driveability problem on a 1000 dollar car?
 
How did you adjust the TPS and did you follow the idle lean procedure afterwards... it has been a while but I seem to recall these being very finicky about the base idle learn procedure. Not sure if it was resolved by 1995, but earlier ones were well know for crankshaft position sensors causing stalling as well and would not set a code.

I'd place injectors as a "highly unlikely".
 
If it were a chrysler I'd suspect "any" sensor that's on the ECM regulated +5 volt power bus being half-shorted and dragging that bus down, thereby dragging down (up?) the TPS reading. The cure is to unplug various sensors and to see if the regulated 5 volts is really exactly 5V.

Another party trick is to grab the harness while it's running and start yanking. See if you can stall it.


But I like the ground idea. Tomato, tomah-to.
 
Does this car have the type of temp sensor that is both the coolant temp sensor and the gauge temp sensor or are these two separate? My 92 cavalier had similar symptoms and my car just has one sensor for both and it turned out to be my temp sensor causing the issue. If your car has separate ones, it might be the coolant temp sensor causing the problems. What kind of shape is your thermostat in?

Wayne
 
When my 94 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8L had a similar problem - died at closed throttle when coming to a stop - it was the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve - problem solved for me.

 
Isn't this one of the infamous intake manifold leaker engines?

I concur on burnishing all the grounds and battery terminals, also remove and burnish and replace every connector you can find.

Usually Trav can check/tune/rebuild all your fuel injectors for a reasonable price, ask him. Since it's a secondary vehicle it's worth the down time for the peace of mind.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If it were a chrysler I'd suspect "any" sensor that's on the ECM regulated +5 volt power bus being half-shorted and dragging that bus down, thereby dragging down (up?) the TPS reading. The cure is to unplug various sensors and to see if the regulated 5 volts is really exactly 5V.

Another party trick is to grab the harness while it's running and start yanking. See if you can stall it.


But I like the ground idea. Tomato, tomah-to.


Excellent idea
 
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Isn't this one of the infamous intake manifold leaker engines?

I concur on burnishing all the grounds and battery terminals, also remove and burnish and replace every connector you can find.

Usually Trav can check/tune/rebuild all your fuel injectors for a reasonable price, ask him. Since it's a secondary vehicle it's worth the down time for the peace of mind.



Nah, it's a series 1 L27 they do not suffer from the lower/upper intake manifold failures.
 
Originally Posted By: 3800Series
The scanner can read the cars data (sorry this is new to me) and I watched the temp rise from 93-120 before I looked at other things. The TPS is throwing a vallue of 4.55v constant at idle.


4.55v at idle? That's your clue. Should be .5 to .8v at idle.

Possible causes:

-Defective sensor install
-Defective sensor
-Open or short wire
-PCM
 
Originally Posted By: 3800Series
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Check for vacuum leaks. I just went through something similar on daughters camry. I decided to look at the hoses that go to the air cleaner. It has two bellows type hoses, both were cracked on the bottom, letting in air after the MAF sensor. Fouls everything up with the fuel ratios. New air hose, car runs perfectly now. Just as an off chance idea, no scanner finds this type of thing.


Already have, in fact I replaced all the vacuum lines.

I spent a lot of time checking the vacuum hoses too. The ones I am talking about are from the throttle body to the air filter casing. Not really vacuum hoses, they are about 3 in diameter bellows like things, air intake hoses. Both were cracked on the bottom where couldn't be seen. Caused lean codes and MIL on. I don't know if your car has them.
 
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