Undercarriage Rust Management

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Originally Posted By: Ducked
[q

You're going to spray this stuff, so wind drift is probably going to put some of it in your face, and your probably leaky sprayer is probably going to put some of it on your hands.

Then you'll probably get some of it on you every time you go under the car. .


What do you think we all do when we change our oil?

You should have seen me the other day after changing my transmission seal on the ta. My arms were totally jet black up to the shoulder. That goo is some terrific rust preventative

I had to wash 4 times with fast orange to get it mostly off. A real man gets nasty dirty.

I might sacrifice a $12 quart of klotz and mix it with wd40 to make a concoction that smells like twizzlers. Or a quart of GM grape gear oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: Ducked
[q

You're going to spray this stuff, so wind drift is probably going to put some of it in your face, and your probably leaky sprayer is probably going to put some of it on your hands.

Then you'll probably get some of it on you every time you go under the car. .


What do you think we all do when we change our oil?



I don't have to think about what you do when you change your oil.

In context, I only have to think about what I do when I spray oil under my car.

See above.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Paint what you can right over the rust, then spray your used oil with a garden sprayer thereafter. I'm not convinced the quality of the paint matters that much. 2 dollar rattle can primer adheres just as long as POR.

Cut your used motor oil with diesel to make it more sprayable. I'm trying to work out putting a 90 degree fitting on my garden sprayer wand so I can just pass it under the car without jacking.

Bottom line. Oil the heck out of it. Areas of my 40 year old cars that look perfect are where there was a steady drip from the engine and tranny. If my trans am hadnt had a wicked leaky rear tranny seal, it would be beer cans by now.



People should be properly disposing of used motor oil not spraying it on the undercarriage of their vehicle. Imagine what a mess our environment would be if when you went to Jiffy Lube, then changed your oil and filter and then sprayed the used motor oil on your vehicle's undercarriage and you drove off dripping motor oil all over for the next 500 miles.


Actually, when I was young I can remember the town I lived in Pennsylvania would bring a oil tanker of used oil and open the valves and drive around the fairgrounds and oil the road to control dust. As a kid my dad would have me take used truck oil and fling it in a half cut gallon jug all over the dirt alley to keep dust down. I would be covered in used motor oil when I was done from it blowing back. My how times have changed. Want to note, it never killed the trees or grass.
 
I know what you are all saying about rust under a car growing up in PA. I still can't get over crawling under the 14 year old Lincoln and not a speck of rust. The production stickers are still on the under carriage. Unreal difference.
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
I know what you are all saying about rust under a car growing up in PA. I still can't get over crawling under the 14 year old Lincoln and not a speck of rust. The production stickers are still on the under carriage. Unreal difference.


Well now they're using brine on the roads here all winter, which is basically a cloud of caustic mist that penetrates every millimeter of your car and rots it out faster than rock salt's wildest dreams, including everything in the engine bay.
The anti-rust technology on cars got so much better that it forced rust to up its game.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Paint what you can right over the rust, then spray your used oil with a garden sprayer thereafter. I'm not convinced the quality of the paint matters that much. 2 dollar rattle can primer adheres just as long as POR.

Cut your used motor oil with diesel to make it more sprayable. I'm trying to work out putting a 90 degree fitting on my garden sprayer wand so I can just pass it under the car without jacking.

Bottom line. Oil the heck out of it. Areas of my 40 year old cars that look perfect are where there was a steady drip from the engine and tranny. If my trans am hadnt had a wicked leaky rear tranny seal, it would be beer cans by now.



What type of garden sprayer are you using, and how well does it atomize your homemade rustproofing brew. A friend has a trailer and is looking for a cheap DIY rustproofing job and doesn't want to spend money on Fluid Film or anything else for that matter. He'd probably bounce for a cheap pump sprayer and maybe a gallon of diesel to cut his waste oil.

I tried talking him into using something good, but he won't hear it.
 
Originally Posted By: DrRoughneck
Originally Posted By: John_Conrad
cold galvanizing compound

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalo...compound-spray/

i bought a different brand from home depot this weekend for my trial

Interested. Let us know how it works out for you.


will do, i wire brushed and cleaned the old exhaust on my old truck which was beginning to rust at parts and then my son gave it 2 coats with the cold galvanizing compound.

i'm thinking of coating it with high heat paint as was suggested to me in another thread
 
Ive been blasted for this in the past, but here goes my rust preventative concoction which I have used for many years stopping rust in Ohio winters very successfully:

10 Toilet bowl wax rings (the cheap ones)
2 gallons of kerosene (AKA liquid paraffin)
2 quarts of new 30 ND motor oil
1 pint of boiled linseed oil

You can let the wax rings which are loaded with corrosion inhibitors dissolve in the kerosene or heat up with a non incendiary source at low heat. Mix it all together and it will spray well.

*People have told me this mix has a low flash point and will combust at the slightest spark or heat source. I have held fire to sprayed metal with no more combustion than undercoating.
*Others have said this mix does not have years of research backing it and will not do an adequate job. So far, it has kept my vehicles, trailers and implements rust free.
*Some have said the drying process of the linseed oil (which is a small percentage of the mix) will heat up and light off. After spraying on metal, I have not noticed a difference in temp using an infrared thermometer of more than 5 degrees.

You obviously don't want to spray it on exhaust components as with any rust preventative oil. I also keep it away from the rubber parts as much as possible. An hour after application, you have a thick, waxy, tacky film protecting your metal parts. If you park your vehicle in an attached garage, your house will smell like linseed oil so leave it out for a week or so.
 
Seems reasonable, though I'm a bit unsure about the wax. I'd expect it night form a hard skin, and perhaps trap water (like paint) but maybe the other stuff keeps it pliable. Academic for me anyway since I doubt you can get it here (and I wasn't aware of it in the UK.) I'd have to melt candles.

BTW "liquid paraffin" describes a pharmaceutical grade laxative, not kerosene, in British English anyway. Paraffin (without the "liquid") is used to describe kerosene. Your dialect may vary.
 
Paraffin is a synonym for kerosene in England? Not quite sure I understand this one... Paraffin is a type of wax, no? And kerosene is, well, kerosene. A combustible hydrocarbon.
 
Originally Posted By: buck91
Paraffin is a synonym for kerosene in England? Not quite sure I understand this one... Paraffin is a type of wax, no? And kerosene is, well, kerosene. A combustible hydrocarbon.


Depends whether you're talking as a chemist or as the geezer in the hardware store.

Paraffins are longish chain saturated hydrocarbons, so they can be waxes or liquids, depending mostly on the chain length.

Kerosene is mostly made up of liquid paraffins of varying chain length, up to about 15, though it has some ring compounds in it as well. In common usage its referred to as "paraffin" rather than kerosene in the UK, though the latter term is known.
 
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Ive been blasted for this in the past, but here goes my rust preventative concoction which I have used for many years stopping rust in Ohio winters very successfully:

10 Toilet bowl wax rings (the cheap ones)
2 gallons of kerosene (AKA liquid paraffin)
2 quarts of new 30 ND motor oil
1 pint of boiled linseed oil



Similarly to the wax, I'm a bit unsure about the boiled linseed oil. This is unstable, which is of course why it works as a paint. It'll set relatively quickly, though this process may be slowed (or perhaps prevented from completing altogether, don't know) by the other ingredients.

In this context I think it MIGHT be desirable to use something more stable, which will set more slowly. Castor oil is probably the most stable generally available vegetable oil (which of course is why it works as a 2-stroke oil) but its fairly expensive.

Canola oil is relatively stable, and its non-GM ancestor rapeseed oil was (is?) used as an industrial lubricant, notably in marine steam engines where it was said to be especially resistant to wash-off. I've used it as a tyre treatment (a whole other, and much dodgier area of experiment) but havn't tried it as a rust proofer.

I've used old sunflower oil because I had quite a lot of it. Its not as stable as Canola, but its more stable than linseed, and its cheap, so a compromise.

All the vegetable oils potentially grow mould, especially in enclosed spaces, though the other ingredients may suppress this to some extent.

Soy bean oil seems especially bad for this so I no longer use it.
 
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