Convoy 5W30, 2006 Jeep Liberty 3.7, 6870 mi

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Nov 30, 2004
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OIL Conklin Convoy 5W30
MILES IN USE 6870
MILES 113,774
SAMPLE TAKEN 7/12/16

ALUMINUM 12
CHROMIUM 2
IRON 128
COPPER 3
LEAD TIN 1
MOLYBDENUM 562
NICKEL 3
POTASSIUM BORON 24
SILICON 18
SODIUM 21
CALCIUM 2248
MAGNESIUM 12
PHOSPHORUS 756
ZINC 966


WATER cSt @ 212ºF 11.9




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My wife normally drives this Jeep. The oil was run for about a year, so lots of cold starts and short trips through a SD winter (though I make sure to take it out on the road for a good warm-up at least every 2 weeks). Then in June, we took it to CO and spent a few days on the trails of the San Juans. It runs very well...not sure what is going on with the high iron. I'll sample it again next year.
 
I apologize for the format being difficult to read. I thought I had it set up right, but obviously not.
 
Wow that iron is high! Holy FE batman! Has the wear been this high on other OCI/UOA with the same or other oils? If I had that level of iron in a daily driver I'd probably faint. What are universal averages for this engine?
 
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Sorry, no other UOAs on this Jeep. I sent one in last year, and the lab mixed up my sample with someone else's.
 
If the rings were toast, there would be lots of chromium as well. Im not sure what the iron is from. It would have to be from steel/steel interface like a cam and lifter/follower, so Im going to go with Chris's assessment.
 
Thanks for the replies. Like I said, it runs good, as it always has. Only used 0.5 qt oil in this OCI (nearly 7k miles), so I don't think the rings could be too bad.
 
Yep the Iron and Aluminium are both high.

I would make 100% sure this is not poor oil flow around the top end by using an oil flush additive designed for use at idle just before an oil & filter change IF you don't have any oil leaks, if you do just cut the OCI to 3000 miles and use an oil that cleans well. M1, Penn Ultra or Amsoil.

Once you have made sure the top end oil flow is good, if the Fe and Al stay high, cut the OCI to 3000 miles and try half a can of Liqui Moly Ceratec and a real dealer supplied OEM oil filter (Mobil and Amsoil also make good filters).
 
Originally Posted By: Boczech
I see that Convoy is alive and well. I was first introduced to this oil when I lived in Denver years ago.


Yes! Do/did you use Convoy?
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
I would make 100% sure this is not poor oil flow around the top end by using an oil flush additive designed for use at idle...use an oil that cleans well. M1, Penn Ultra or Amsoil.

...a real dealer supplied OEM oil filter


Convoy is one of the best cleaning oils. Whenever I've pulled a valve cover on an engine that I've used Convoy in, it's spotless. I always use NAPA Gold (Wix) filters.
 
Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
I would make 100% sure this is not poor oil flow around the top end by using an oil flush additive designed for use at idle...use an oil that cleans well. M1, Penn Ultra or Amsoil.

...a real dealer supplied OEM oil filter


Convoy is one of the best cleaning oils. Whenever I've pulled a valve cover on an engine that I've used Convoy in, it's spotless. I always use NAPA Gold (Wix) filters.


Whenever I read statements like that it always makes me have more questions.

Did you use Convoy in it since new? What do other engines of that type that used a different brand of oil look like under the valve cover? Could it just be a clean burning engine design that doesn't show much varnish?

"Dawn is one of the best soaps. Every time I've used it on my dishes, they are clean" They all kind of do that because that's their intended design.

Not to be on a soap box but these kinds of posts are one of the most frustrating things about this site. You can't just say things are facts that don't have proof.
 
Calm down, jayg. He told me to use an oil that cleans well, so I told him that I already did. You wanna use Dawn on your dishes, great! You wanna use it in your engine, that's fine by me, too! To each their own!
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
Calm down, jayg. He told me to use an oil that cleans well, so I told him that I already did. You wanna use Dawn on your dishes, great! You wanna use it in your engine, that's fine by me, too! To each their own!
thumbsup2.gif



I'm not upset and I think my analogy went over your head.
 
No, I fully understand your analogy. Just telling you that there is no reason to be so upset (or as you put it, frustrated)! Have a good evening!

Originally Posted By: jayg
these kinds of posts are one of the most frustrating things about this site.
 
Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
No, I fully understand your analogy. Just telling you that there is no reason to be so upset (or as you put it, frustrated)! Have a good evening!

Originally Posted By: jayg
these kinds of posts are one of the most frustrating things about this site.


Sure, I just think we all could contribute more subjective information than opinions stated as fact. It adds so much more meaningful information on this site to benefit others.
 
Yeah, FE is a little high - no big deal IMO. South Dakota winter - lots of short trips and cold starts - not terribly out of the ordinary. Check it again after the next run or two - I'll bet it's better.
 
Must be something in the air here in south Dakota that causes high iron and aluminum....

My last UOA showed about the same AL, and Fe in the 80's

What part of SD? Just curious.
I work in Sioux falls, but live 20ish miles out of town.
 
Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
I would make 100% sure this is not poor oil flow around the top end by using an oil flush additive designed for use at idle...use an oil that cleans well. M1, Penn Ultra or Amsoil.

...a real dealer supplied OEM oil filter


Convoy is one of the best cleaning oils. Whenever I've pulled a valve cover on an engine that I've used Convoy in, it's spotless. I always use NAPA Gold (Wix) filters.


No it's not, Calcium is in the low 2000 ppm whereas Mobil 1 0w40 has 3000 (One of the Amsoils has 4000) AND I doubt very much that it has a base stock mix with any degree of natural solvency.
If the engine is flushed clean (Use a major brand one designed for use at idle just before an oil & filter job AND if it has a high oil consumption add half a can of stop leak) and a better oil (Or Ceratec) is used, then I bet the UOA figures improve.

The Al is probably from the cylinder block and Iron is a general wear indicator, so tough to ID the source. If it's the only wear metal that is high then suspect the oil pump, otherwise it might just be driver style, like touching cold start right boot trouble. If you use good oil and filters changed at a sensible interval there will not be a big difference between summer and winter wear metals unless the engine is causing fuel contamination OR the driver is booting it when cold.

When cold starting never touch the gas pedal for 30 seconds after start to allow the oil to flow back to the cylinders.

PS: Most sludge is in the sump, it's only visible by removing the valve cover when real bad. Liqui Moly recommend removing the sump and cleaning it along with the all important oil pump intake screen if you suspect the engine is sludged up due to a flickering low oil pressure warning at hot idle or lumps in drained oil.
 
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