cant stop rear diff leak

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the truck in question is the truck I use at work, 2001 Chevy 1500 4x4 with the 5.3, its pretty beat up but its one ofthe better trucks we have when it comes to reliability and it runs great. It just turned 184k miles and I assumed it never had the rear diff serviced(I'll be doign the front and t-case soon). I drained the fluid, pulled the cover off, cleaned the magnet, and scraped the gasket off, torqued the bolts to 15 ft lbs then 30 ft lbs and filled it back up and it was fine. Later during the day I saw that it was dripping, so I pulled it back off cleaned the cover and axle housing mating surface again, and a day later it was still leaking. I used a Fel Pro gasket both times. This last time, I used Permatex Gear Oil RTV in the green tube, I didnt use a bead, i put a solid layer around the cover and the bolt holes, let it set for 20 mins, then torqued to spec,still has a slight drip. Should I go ahead and try a Lube Locker gasket? If that doesnt work then I'll be out of ideas. Any help is appreciated
 
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The "Right Stuff" black gasket maker. My Dodge Transmission pan leaked, changed it three times, just annoying leak. Used everything including Dodges sealant. Has no gasket. Used Right Stuff and dry as a popcorn [censored].
 
Make sure there are no dimples where the bolts go through the cover. Straighten as necessary. clean the cover and housing down to bare metal. Cant have any oil on either. clean the cover with brackcleaner and put a bead of silicone on the cover and around the bolt holes.

Clean the housing with the brackcleaner and immediately install the cover with out a gasket, Just your sealer. Let it set an hr then fill it up. The OEM's got away from gaskets a long time ago.
 
Use Permatex the Right Stuff Black. Make sure everything is dry and there are no oil drips. Clean with brake cleaner and then apply sealant to the cover and install. Cleanliness is everything for these applications.
 
As mentioned, make sure your cover is as flat as possible to avoid mating issues. I have seen more leaks caused by wavy stamped steel covers (timing, valve, diff) than anything else.

The indian head shellac is old school, but works. I think the Right Stuff is a bit more forgiving personally.
 
Just wire up one of those "I pee when I laugh" pads to the bottom of the cover. Should be good for 20K miles or so.
 
Originally Posted By: mk378
30 ft lb is way too much for a stamped cover.

Exactly. You sure it's not supposed to be 30 INCH pounds?
 
Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
you never had a gasket from the factory? my '06 dodge cummins has one

I have the Hemi in my 2500. They have a different transmission. Probably lighter. I know the Cummins have the gasket. The Hemi has make your own. Until I used the Right Stuff it was a nightmare.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: mk378
30 ft lb is way too much for a stamped cover.

Exactly. You sure it's not supposed to be 30 INCH pounds?


I think it is actually one brap from a 3/8" impact. Not 2, just 1.
 
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
As mentioned, make sure your cover is as flat as possible to avoid mating issues. I have seen more leaks caused by wavy stamped steel covers (timing, valve, diff) than anything else.

The indian head shellac is old school, but works. I think the Right Stuff is a bit more forgiving personally.



You should never use RTV with a gasket, it is 100% not necessary and can actually cause a leak. Shellac and high tack are made to work with the gasket not create 2 separate additional seals. RTV alone is fine. This guy is using high tack to hold the gasket which is fine but it and shellac permeate the gasket somewhat and helps prevent gasket porosity.
i tighten them slightly more than snug never 30 ft lb, maybe 10.
 
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I'm glad I didn't follow the book when I did my Liberty. They called for 25-30' lbs. I did about half that.
 
When I was a young mechanic I learned to palm a 1/4" or stubby ratchet for tightening stamped steel covers/pans and plastic parts. Heavy duty vehicles are another story. You can always go little more if needed but once a part is distorted or broken there is no going back.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
As mentioned, make sure your cover is as flat as possible to avoid mating issues. I have seen more leaks caused by wavy stamped steel covers (timing, valve, diff) than anything else.

The indian head shellac is old school, but works. I think the Right Stuff is a bit more forgiving personally.



You should never use RTV with a gasket, it is 100% not necessary and can actually cause a leak. Shellac and high tack are made to work with the gasket not create 2 separate additional seals. RTV alone is fine. This guy is using high tack to hold the gasket which is fine but it and shellac permeate the gasket somewhat and helps prevent gasket porosity.
i tighten them slightly more than snug never 30 ft lb, maybe 10.




I didn't say to use RTV on the gasket. I said that using The Rights Stuff is simply more forgiving than using the shellac method which is applied to a gasket.
 
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