Originally Posted By: pscholte
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: pscholte
Thanks for the info. Obviously you cannot just go to the lubrizol tool and select what LOOKS to be the best coverage out of all the specs listed. I always use full synthetic. It is choosing "the best" protection based on specs among the synthetics that I am striving for.
Well, let me tell you one case.
I had a roommate when I was in graduate school. She bought VW Passat with 1.8T engine and 150hp (2001). That engine is notorious for oil sludge if bad oil is used (non synthetic and some synthetics). My friends A4 with that engine had a sludge bomb and he used M1 5W30 (synthetic, but not specified for Euro engines). Anyway, she was totally oblivious about car. I had to check her car since she bought it because it looked good. One day I check oil and dipstick was completely dry. So I switch car to T6, due to thickness to see whether it would prevent some leaks. It did bit better then GC 0W30 that was in, but still she would regularly manage to go down to 2.5qt out of 4.2qt in the sump.
Guess what? Car still drives with 230K!!! So, stick to good synthetic and enjoy the ride.
edyvw,
It sounds from your example that not only the "quality" is important but matching specs to the car is REALLY important. I can't resist. Am I right in thinking that even if an oil is SN or whatever the current North American standard is I REALLY want it to also have some "nice" ACEA and Euro manufacturers ratings too?
Again, it depends whether you car call for it. For us Euro owners API rating does not mean anything and to certain extent even ACEA. What really matters for me in this case is what VW and BMW say.
If your car calls for API SN, let's say 0W20, putting 0W40 ACEA A3/B3 B4 might create issues, increase MPG etc.