2016 Ford F-150 Engine Question

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
1,291
Location
Texas
Might consider trading in my 2012 Mazda CX-9 V6 (40,000) for a 2016 Ford F-150...are the Eco (V6s) as reliable as the V8s? Any real world advice would be appreciated.

Best,
 
IMO Ford truck makes one of the best powertrains on the planet. When the turbo V6's go 200k trouble free miles I will be sold. Until then more components = More things to go wrong. I am more concerned with the aluminum body unless all you use it for is getting groceries or transporting stuffed animals.
 
Originally Posted By: Kawiguy454
IMO Ford truck makes one of the best powertrains on the planet. When the turbo V6's go 200k trouble free miles I will be sold. Until then more components = More things to go wrong. I am more concerned with the aluminum body unless all you use it for is getting groceries or transporting stuffed animals.
The 2017 Superdutys are getting Aluminum sheetmetal!
 
I think Ford should've employed a panel system for the truck beds to facilitate repairs.

A Ford salesman told me the weight savings is 700 pounds. I'm not sure I believe him.
 
Going from an '04 F150 Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.4 V8 to a '16 F150 Supercrew F150 with the 2.7 TT V6, I'd believe the truck lost 700 lbs. Peak HP and Torque are not that much different from the 5.4 (though the power delivery curves are much different), but the truck moves so much better it is hard to believe unless you've driven both. I'd also note the GVWR between the old truck and new truck is 700 lbs lighter with roughly the same payload in my case.
 
I have driven a 5.4 2V and 3V engine and they seem to really need to wind up to get moving. I bet a 2.7TT with the same torque numbers would feel a lot more powerful just because it can be delivered at such a low RPM.
 
A friend is a contractor with the 3.5 EcoB. Has over 100K with no engine problems. His last Ford was a 2002 F250 with the 5.4. He pulls a tandem wheel trailer which is very heavy. He claims the 3.5 out pulls the 5.4 and gets 4-5 MPG better doin it.
 
So far I have seen no issues with the 2.7. When the 3.5 first came out we did a few, but them it has been pretty solid. Just the usual early spark plug replacements like most turbo engines.
 
Thanks to all. Will go take a look at them. Really appreciate your time and advice.
 
I just sold my 2014 F150 with the 3.5 EB and bought a 2016 model with the 5.0. While the motor change wasn't the only difference I was chasing, I did make the 5.0 a non-negotiable. The EB had gobs of power and all, but it was the most twitchy motor I've ever owned. I suppose it's common with FI motors, but I much prefer the smooth response of the 5.0. So far fuel economy has been -1mpg compare to the EB.

As far as reliability, I can't speak to that. I had no motor problems in the 18,000 miles that I owned the EB. My only concern was the idea of the valves caking up with deposits, with no Ford-approved remedy. Whether my motor was afflicted, I will never know. There were no symptoms that I noticed. I understand that the 2017 3.5EB's will have no DI and port, so that should fix this problem (if it was in-fact a problem).
 
The GDI research carries on - the BMW & VW saga (my buddy has one yucked up now) - lots of learnings but not enough shared. Toyota with two injection points so some detergent gasoline passes the valve ?
Since it was a genuine worry to you - was there an oil you felt was the best choice for 3.5 eB as it relates to buildup ?
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
The GDI research carries on - the BMW & VW saga (my buddy has one yucked up now) - lots of learnings but not enough shared. Toyota with two injection points so some detergent gasoline passes the valve ?
Since it was a genuine worry to you - was there an oil you felt was the best choice for 3.5 eB as it relates to buildup ?


Yes, when I first bought the EB I read up on it for days. I found compelling (to me at least) commentary that led me to believe that Castrol Edge with Ti (5w30) was the best oil for preventing valve deposits in that motor. If I recall, much of that research was gained from this site. But again, whether it made any difference, who knows.
 
After some reading tonight...I think the 5.0 is the way to go for me as well. The stop/start feature on the 2.7 will drive me crazy and don't want to have to push a button every time I start the truck to disable it. Thanks again to all. Night
 
Ford has worked out the kinks on the EB motors. With that said, my F150 is powered by the 5.0 Coyote
wink.gif
 
I've found the start/stop on the 2.7 to be very easy to modulate to get it to do what you want.

When you come to a stop, and you want it to kick in, just come to a complete stop and stay there. No creeping to fill in space if folks in front of you creep. Don't want it to kick in? Then leave a enough room to creep just a little - and it will never activate.

Honestly, it only took me less than three days of driving to figure it out, slightly change my driving, and now I don't even think about touching the disable button. And you start to realize how much gas we waste just sitting and idling at traffic lights...
 
Thanks for the info MNgopher. Maybe an engineering concern, but doesn't that constant shutting on and off put more wear on the engine rather than letting the engine run? Just a thought and a little OCD perhaps. Thanks
 
In terms of wear from starting, I'm not overly concerned. One of the many things that defeats the start/stop is if the engine is cold. It honestly has not been cold enough to figure out what that temp actually is, but most of the concern is on cold starts causing wear. On top of that, it appears they've built some strategies into the engine to keep the oil where it needs to be - note that to check the oil level, you have to wait at least 15 minutes after the engine was running to get an accurate reading (see the edmunds story on the dealer who didn't get the memo and overfilled the engine with 10 quarts of oil!).

Will it be harder on the starter /battery? Perhaps, but those are supposedly engineered to deal with it. The battery is an AGM from the factory.

There are a whole slew of things that will prevent the start stop from working. Off the top of my head:
-Engine too cold
-Demand for Heating or Cooling (though it will shut off if the demand is not High, and then restart when it thinks it needs to)
-Steering wheel angle is high (ie: in a turn or actively steering).
-Any motion what so ever, including just twitching your foot on the brake - its much more sensitive than the last car I drove with Auto start stop - a bmw X5.
-Tow/Haul mode shuts it off
-Low battery charge
-Windshield defrosters are on

and the list goes on, and on...

I wasn't sold on it when I first experienced it, but it is pretty easy to get to it to do what you want...
 
I look at it this way - tough to go wrong with any of the engine choices. Want the V8? Go for it! Wasn't my choice this time around, but by all accounts, it is a fine motor.

bcardinal is a nice voice to have on the board - gets at the "frequency" of issues with some of these things, and a solid voice on parts/maintenance on these things...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top