02 Silverado 5.3L Overheating

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2002 Silverado 5.3L with 302,xxx miles.

Drove back from Sacramento to Los Angeles about a month ago and right when we hit the Grape Vine the temperature gauge began to climb close to 210 and 235 deg F.
When descending down the Valley, the gauge needle dropped to around 185 deg F. It was warm outside (85 deg ) on the way up.

Up until this past Monday, the needle pretty much has stayed between 185-210 deg F on warm to hot days.

Monday:
Outside Temp was 95 deg F-100 deg F in Southern CA.
Was driving around with my family from store to store with the AC on.
There was a few stores where only got off while my family stayed in the truck with the AC on.
I quickly went in and out of the stores to then jump back into the already running truck to do some more errands.
On our last stop, I jumped off the truck to run into the store for a 5 minute oil filter purchase.

I jumped into the truck and noticed a funny smell.
I then looked at the temp gauge and the needle was 2 lines from the red 260 on the gauge.
The AC was on but blowing warm air.
Checked coolant level and it looked fine

I quickly took off and was crossing my fingers that the movement of the truck would cool the truck down.
The gauge needle slowly began to move towards normal operating temp and it slowly settled at just below 210 deg F.
AC was turned back on and it began to cool like normal.
Checked coolant level and it was fine.

Drove truck for the next few days and have not noticed anything since.

Not sure where to start.
Water pump, coolant and thermostat were changed 2 years ago.
Replaced coolant again 1 year ago.

Not sure if these symptoms are indicating a problem with the fan clutch, if so, how do I test.
On my other cars (old Mercedes), I use the old simple newspaper on the fan test (when car has been driven and idling) to verify the fan clutch is OK

Can this method or test be used for Silverados?

What else could be causing these symptoms?

Any tips or recommendations are greatly appreciated

Please advise
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Definitely sounds like the thermal clutch is staying disengaged; do you not hear the higher fan noise on cold start, and when it gets hot?

Hayden 2786 is only $37 on Amazon, and an excellent replacement/upgrade: https://amzn.com/B000C3DD5E


+1
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Definitely sounds like the thermal clutch is staying disengaged; do you not hear the higher fan noise on cold start, and when it gets hot?

Hayden 2786 is only $37 on Amazon, and an excellent replacement/upgrade: https://amzn.com/B000C3DD5E


I hear the higher loud fan kick in when taking off, and the higher fan noise disappears or faints as you continue to drive.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
But you only hear it (higher fan noise) on cold start, and not at any other time, correct?


Well, I have only noticed the loud fan comes on cold start (morning), especially when the morning is already kind of warm and after long stops (shopping at a mall or visiting relatives.
Again, its the loud fan noise that dissipates as you drive for a few seconds.

I just used a newspaper to see if i could get the fan to stop and the fan shredded the newspaper edges.
I then turned off the truck and went to try to see how much resistance is on the fan while spinning it.
I grabbed a fan fin and spun the fan hard to see how many times it would rotate.
The fan fin that I used to rotate probably moved almost half of a full turn. So If it was 12 o'clock, it moved to 5 o'clock position.

Not sure if this method is even reliable because I have heard that fans on other cars work completely different.
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
Was it an oem thermostat? If not get an a/c delco
Is the fan or Fans all working as they should?


YES, OEM thermostat and water pump.
 
What kind of coolant did you use two years ago? Did you mix the oringinal DexCool with something else (which is a big no-no)?
 
I'd be the guy to throw parts and say to change out the fan clutch. Most guys recommend replacing the fan clutch with the water pump and since you replaced most of the cooling system and kept the original fan clutch it won't hurt to change it out.
 
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
What kind of coolant did you use two years ago? Did you mix the oringinal DexCool with something else (which is a big no-no)?


Concentrated Dexcool with distilled water.
 
Originally Posted By: shinyWheels
When you changed the coolant, did you burp it?


Well, not sure if did it right but I used the "turn on the truck while at an incline, without the reservoir cap, and then idle to 2k rpm."
Has always worked but not sure if this is the best way
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Gito
I grabbed a fan fin and spun the fan hard to see how many times it would rotate.
The fan fin that I used to rotate probably moved almost half of a full turn. So If it was 12 o'clock, it moved to 5 o'clock position.

Not sure if this method is even reliable because I have heard that fans on other cars work completely different.


I have been driving my 2001 Silverado farther than usual in hot weather the past few days, enough to bring on the hot fan noise. I just tried the hot spin test, and mine barely moved at all--maybe from 12 to 2 o'clock.

I'm not sure if that helps you or not, but the symptoms do make it sound like the fan clutch is giving out.
 
An internally plugging up radiator WILL MIMIC a bad fan clutch as not enough hot water can get through the radiator to cause the fan clutch to engage. An externally plugged radiator can cause the same issues.

To test a radiator to see if it is internally plugged, I warm an engine till the thermostat is open, normal operating temp, and have someone rev up the engine to about 3000rpm while I observe the return hose (could be the top or bottom hose depending on the flow direction) from the radiator to the engine and see if it collapses, or gets real "soft" like it's got a vacuum in it, as if it is sucking water but cannot get it through the hose fast enough (plugged radiator). I will also put on a glove, and feel the engine outlet hose (very hot) going to the radiator and see if it gets harder as the rpm goes from idle to 3000rpm which would be another sign of a plugging/plugged radiator. USE CAUTION when working around a hot engine and hoses, squeezing a radiator hose that is weak could rupture it causing severe burns.
 
The fan clutch has friction surfaces inside that are very similar to brake shoes. They also wear out just like brake shoes. If you can spin the fan at all just after you shut off the engine after running it long enough for it to be hot, then the clutch is bad. Just on years alone being a 02 it is time to replace the fan clutch.

It would probably be a good idea to use some loctite on the nuts that hold on the clutch.
 
If you do replace the fan clutch i would go with an oem replacement if at all possible.

I tried the hayden on my dodge and the amount of drag it put on was unbelievable. Might have been defective though because it felt like the fan never disengaged. Also it was the 'standard' cooling so i would hate to see the drag from the heavy duty one.

Replaced with oem and my idle overheating was solved and no crazy drag from engaged fan.
 
OK, my best guesses:

1. issue with fan
2. radiator (externally) clogged with bugs, dirt, etc.
 
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