I need to purchase 4 new rotors for my truck. I live in ny so rust is an issue. The current ones are warped and I'd rather just buy new ones then try and cut them. I can get napa premiums for 30 a piece, ultra premiums for 80, autozone duralast golds for 50 each, and carquest wearever for 30 a piece. I don't usually keep vehicles for more than a year. What would be the best option right now? What is everyone's experiences with any of these?
Advice on some rotors?
- Thread starter 02s4audi
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2014
- Messages
- 1,187
Do as you wish, but you asked for advice on rotors...That's the title of the thread.
Find a shop near you that uses Pro-Cut on car rotor machining systems. http://www.procutusa.com/
These machines take into account your wheel bearing pre-load and machine the rotors to match; while the rotors are on the car. Your rotors will last 60K+ miles instead of 20K without warpage.
If you usually only keep vehicles a year or so, why are you bothering to replace rotors instead of the vehicle?
Find a shop near you that uses Pro-Cut on car rotor machining systems. http://www.procutusa.com/
These machines take into account your wheel bearing pre-load and machine the rotors to match; while the rotors are on the car. Your rotors will last 60K+ miles instead of 20K without warpage.
If you usually only keep vehicles a year or so, why are you bothering to replace rotors instead of the vehicle?
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
If you usually only keep vehicles a year or so, why are you bothering to replace rotors instead of the vehicle?
+1
If you usually only keep vehicles a year or so, why are you bothering to replace rotors instead of the vehicle?
+1
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Do as you wish, but you asked for advice on rotors...That's the title of the thread.
Find a shop near you that uses Pro-Cut on car rotor machining systems. http://www.procutusa.com/
These machines take into account your wheel bearing pre-load and machine the rotors to match; while the rotors are on the car. Your rotors will last 60K+ miles instead of 20K without warpage.
If you usually only keep vehicles a year or so, why are you bothering to replace rotors instead of the vehicle?
When I lived in NY, the rotors would rot from the inside out well before they wore out. I would replace. If you want to go cheap there are some vendors on ebay who sell OK rotors, just check feedback. It's all from China either you buy from Autozone, or you buy from ebay.
Do as you wish, but you asked for advice on rotors...That's the title of the thread.
Find a shop near you that uses Pro-Cut on car rotor machining systems. http://www.procutusa.com/
These machines take into account your wheel bearing pre-load and machine the rotors to match; while the rotors are on the car. Your rotors will last 60K+ miles instead of 20K without warpage.
If you usually only keep vehicles a year or so, why are you bothering to replace rotors instead of the vehicle?
When I lived in NY, the rotors would rot from the inside out well before they wore out. I would replace. If you want to go cheap there are some vendors on ebay who sell OK rotors, just check feedback. It's all from China either you buy from Autozone, or you buy from ebay.
Centric Premium
what truck?
Cheap rotors, premium pads. The rotors on my car would warp all the time no matter if I used cheap ones or good ones. Last time I needed brakes though, it was the winter so I just let my indy do it instead of doing it myself. He did a better job than I did cleaning off all the rust and lubing everything and the rotors didn't warp.
Obligatory:
Originally Posted By: 02s4audi
I'm changing them because they're warped and shake. It irritates me
So your truck is less than a year old and needs new rotors already?! Wow.
To answer your question, get the cheapest ones if they last as long as you plan to keep the truck. If you keep the truck for 2-3 or more years get better ones (OEM). You have OEM ones on now? What mileage on the rotors?
I'm changing them because they're warped and shake. It irritates me
So your truck is less than a year old and needs new rotors already?! Wow.
To answer your question, get the cheapest ones if they last as long as you plan to keep the truck. If you keep the truck for 2-3 or more years get better ones (OEM). You have OEM ones on now? What mileage on the rotors?
I used wearever severe duty from advance auto, i had a discount code.
Here is a thread on the avalanche brake job.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3410446/Avalanche_brake_Job#Post3410446
Here is a thread on the avalanche brake job.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3410446/Avalanche_brake_Job#Post3410446
Originally Posted By: 02s4audi
I need to purchase 4 new rotors for my truck. I live in ny so rust is an issue. The current ones are warped and I'd rather just buy new ones then try and cut them. I can get napa premiums for 30 a piece, ultra premiums for 80, autozone duralast golds for 50 each, and carquest wearever for 30 a piece. I don't usually keep vehicles for more than a year. What would be the best option right now? What is everyone's experiences with any of these?
Some advice on keeping whatever rotors you use from becoming "warped" themselves: don't keep the brake pedal depressed once you come to a complete stop after an extended application of the brakes.
Whether it's briefly letting up a couple of times or just shifting into park and releasing them altogether, the objective is to prevent the brake pads from baking onto the rotors when they're super-heated, as that can cause the rotors to become uneven in those exact spots.
So for example, you are traveling along at 55 mph and suddenly notice a yellow light at the upcoming traffic signal, causing you to quickly and forcefully apply the brakes to come to a stop. Once your vehicle has come to a stop, if you just leave your foot on the brake the whole time while waiting for the light to turn green, that could lead to the condition which is commonly (mis?)diagnosed as warped rotors. To avoid this, simply release the brakes a couple of times (or altogether after shifting to park) while sitting still.
This is certainly not a cure-all for warped rotors, but it will definitely go a long way to mitigating the circumstances which can lead to rotors needing to be replaced due to vibration during high speed braking, aka brake jutter.
I need to purchase 4 new rotors for my truck. I live in ny so rust is an issue. The current ones are warped and I'd rather just buy new ones then try and cut them. I can get napa premiums for 30 a piece, ultra premiums for 80, autozone duralast golds for 50 each, and carquest wearever for 30 a piece. I don't usually keep vehicles for more than a year. What would be the best option right now? What is everyone's experiences with any of these?
Some advice on keeping whatever rotors you use from becoming "warped" themselves: don't keep the brake pedal depressed once you come to a complete stop after an extended application of the brakes.
Whether it's briefly letting up a couple of times or just shifting into park and releasing them altogether, the objective is to prevent the brake pads from baking onto the rotors when they're super-heated, as that can cause the rotors to become uneven in those exact spots.
So for example, you are traveling along at 55 mph and suddenly notice a yellow light at the upcoming traffic signal, causing you to quickly and forcefully apply the brakes to come to a stop. Once your vehicle has come to a stop, if you just leave your foot on the brake the whole time while waiting for the light to turn green, that could lead to the condition which is commonly (mis?)diagnosed as warped rotors. To avoid this, simply release the brakes a couple of times (or altogether after shifting to park) while sitting still.
This is certainly not a cure-all for warped rotors, but it will definitely go a long way to mitigating the circumstances which can lead to rotors needing to be replaced due to vibration during high speed braking, aka brake jutter.
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Do as you wish, but you asked for advice on rotors...That's the title of the thread.
Find a shop near you that uses Pro-Cut on car rotor machining systems. http://www.procutusa.com/
These machines take into account your wheel bearing pre-load and machine the rotors to match; while the rotors are on the car. Your rotors will last 60K+ miles instead of 20K without warpage.
If you usually only keep vehicles a year or so, why are you bothering to replace rotors instead of the vehicle?
I found a shop fairly close by that does this.
Do as you wish, but you asked for advice on rotors...That's the title of the thread.
Find a shop near you that uses Pro-Cut on car rotor machining systems. http://www.procutusa.com/
These machines take into account your wheel bearing pre-load and machine the rotors to match; while the rotors are on the car. Your rotors will last 60K+ miles instead of 20K without warpage.
If you usually only keep vehicles a year or so, why are you bothering to replace rotors instead of the vehicle?
I found a shop fairly close by that does this.
No one is going to bring up the "rotors don't warp" controversy?
Rotors are simply a hit or miss purchase. I have had good success using the cheap rotor/excellent pad philosophy. The three cheaper rotors in the OP might all be equivalent, with the AZ one costing more only due to a longer warranty. I do think that the "better" rotors might have a slightly better success rate due to better quality control....maybe. Painted hats are nice in the salt zone, but you can achieve the same effect with a paper thin application of grease/paste (molykote77, etc.)if you wish.
Don't fret too much over this. There is no perfect answer.
Rotors are simply a hit or miss purchase. I have had good success using the cheap rotor/excellent pad philosophy. The three cheaper rotors in the OP might all be equivalent, with the AZ one costing more only due to a longer warranty. I do think that the "better" rotors might have a slightly better success rate due to better quality control....maybe. Painted hats are nice in the salt zone, but you can achieve the same effect with a paper thin application of grease/paste (molykote77, etc.)if you wish.
Don't fret too much over this. There is no perfect answer.
Everyone should see for themselves.
Its worth watching your own rotors (if turnable) on a lathe to see if what you felt in the pedal and wheel was a warped rotor or pad imprinting.
I haven't had any street vehicles actually "warp" a rotor - but I've sure had non uniform pad imprinting.
My titan from the factory was the worst Ive ever owned. I had to completely change out the rotors and pads, and add SS lines before I had real brakes
UD
Its worth watching your own rotors (if turnable) on a lathe to see if what you felt in the pedal and wheel was a warped rotor or pad imprinting.
I haven't had any street vehicles actually "warp" a rotor - but I've sure had non uniform pad imprinting.
My titan from the factory was the worst Ive ever owned. I had to completely change out the rotors and pads, and add SS lines before I had real brakes
UD
I got some rotors from RA that were finished on the hat and in the vanes. They were not that expensive. Electrophoretic Coated they call it.
Dura International was the brand and around $25 each for my Accent.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6796744&cc=1441280&jsn=360
Dura International was the brand and around $25 each for my Accent.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6796744&cc=1441280&jsn=360
CENTRIC
- Status
