New Mobil 1 FS 0w-40

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Ordered some last week off Amazon for the new rebate - received today and its the 'old' non FS version.
When I bought it back in April/May for the previous M1 rebate, it was FS.

Is it worth more? Anyone want to overspend for it?
wink.gif


Will my car explode if I mix them?
crazy2.gif
 
Is the current Mobil 1 FS 0W40 still considered to be the go-to-oil as before and a product that typically other oils are judged against?

Current product information of M1 sold over here is as follows:

Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 synthetic motor oil meets or exceeds the requirements of:
API SN, SM, SL, SJ
ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4

Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 has the following builder approvals:
MB-Approval 229.3
MB-Approval 229.5
VW 502 00/505 00
Porsche A40

According to ExxonMobil, Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 is of the following quality:
API CF
VW 503 01



Viscosity, mm²/s (ASTM D 445)
@ 40º C........................................70,8
@ 100º C.......................................12,9
Viscosity index................................186
MRV at -40 °C, cP (ASTM D4684).................21,600
HTHS viscosity, mPa•s @ 150 °C, (ASTM D4683)...3,6
Total base number (ASTM D2896).................12,6
Sulfated ash, wt%, (ASTM D874).................1,34
Phosphorous, wt% (ASTM D4981)..................0,1
Flash point, °C (ASTM D 92)....................226
Density @ 15 °C, g/ml (ASTM D4052).............0,8456

I used Shell Helix Ultra GTL 5W40 before in my Saab but it's price has increased by 20% or so and simultaneously price of Mobil 1 has come down considerably. Because of this I could just as well go with Mobil 1 from cost point of view.

What group oil is Mobil 1 considered to be these days?
 
Originally Posted By: Finn

What group oil is Mobil 1 considered to be these days?


There have been many posts here about M1 0w40 FS being a Gas-To-Liquid product. And some of those posts compare GTL to Group IV/V oils in terms of performance. I have not seen much proof of that though.
 
Thanks, Vlad.

With GTL in it M1 would be to some extent comparable to Shell Helix Ultras as the locally available Ultras in 5W40 and 0W40 both are Pure Plus versions.
 
How does one tell if the 0w40 is the FS version or not?

I just bought two large jugs of 0w40 which says something along the lines of "european car formula", but nothing about FS.

Google didn't help either. Is there a logo difference b/w the two?

I have a PFI C class Merc. I assume the new 0w40 FS is still the way to go?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
See post #4045581 in this thread.

Originally Posted By: superangrypenguin
How does one tell if the 0w40 is the FS version or not?

I just bought two large jugs of 0w40 which says something along the lines of "european car formula", but nothing about FS.

Google didn't help either. Is there a logo difference b/w the two?

I have a PFI C class Merc. I assume the new 0w40 FS is still the way to go?
 
Originally Posted By: superangrypenguin
How does one tell if the 0w40 is the FS version or not?

See the little "FS" on the label, just above the word "Formula"?

26640869729_1b74de9558_o.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: superangrypenguin
How does one tell if the 0w40 is the FS version or not?

See the little "FS" on the label, just above the word "Formula"?

26640869729_1b74de9558_o.jpg



Thanks Pete.

I think it was you who posted a UOA to a 2008? Mercedes C class that showed high iron. That photo is dead btw. I was trying to find it b/c I want to go more than 10,000KM on my oil change but I had high iron too. Not sure what yours was at. Just a FYI.
 
Oh poop.

I just now realized that the oil in my car is half "FS" oil and half "non FS/old M1 0w40"

What do I do now? Should I just do an early oil change and refill it with the new FS formulation?
 
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Originally Posted By: superangrypenguin
Oh poop.

I just now realized that the oil in my car is half "FS" oil and half "non FS/old M1 0w40"

What do I do now? Should I just do an early oil change and refill it with the new FS formulation?

Humor?

If they both meet the specification required by your vehicle what would prompt you to be worried?
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: superangrypenguin
Oh poop.

I just now realized that the oil in my car is half "FS" oil and half "non FS/old M1 0w40"

What do I do now? Should I just do an early oil change and refill it with the new FS formulation?

Humor?

If they both meet the specification required by your vehicle what would prompt you to be worried?


If there is a formulation change...is that not a problem?

In general, mixing two oils that are both certified for my engine is not recommend. E.g. mixing Mobil 1 0w40 with Castrol Edge Syntec 0w40. Both are approved...

I'm not the expert here, hence why I'm asking!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Originally Posted By: superangrypenguin
If there is a formulation change...is that not a problem?

In general, mixing two oils that are both certified for my engine is not recommend. E.g. mixing Mobil 1 0w40 with Castrol Syntec 0w40. Both are approved...

It actually says that somewhere in your owner's manual?
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: superangrypenguin
If there is a formulation change...is that not a problem?

In general, mixing two oils that are both certified for my engine is not recommend. E.g. mixing Mobil 1 0w40 with Castrol Syntec 0w40. Both are approved...

It actually says that somewhere in your owner's manual?


No, but it is something I have read time and time again on BITOG.

The owner's manual is sometimes not the holy grail of information. Take VAG and their oil recommendations.

Anyways, if your opinion is that I'm wrong and that mixing two approved oils for my engine is OK, please state that. I'm OK with being wrong!
 
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Originally Posted By: superangrypenguin
No, but it is something I have read time and time again on BITOG.

The owner's manual is sometimes not the holy grail of information. Take VAG and their oil recommendations.

Ahha the way you said it I thought there was some official recommendation by the manufacturer to avoid it.

Yes, mixing two oils from different manufacturers is discouraged due to the unknown effect on the additive chemistry. But that only means it isn't optimal, not that it is necessarily harmful. Especially in this case where the oil is from the same manufacturer I wouldn't personally lose any sleep over it. No one on here knows what the actual difference is anyway. A lot of people speculate but no one knows for sure. I certainly would not worry and drain my oil before the next scheduled change.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: superangrypenguin
No, but it is something I have read time and time again on BITOG.

The owner's manual is sometimes not the holy grail of information. Take VAG and their oil recommendations.

Ahha the way you said it I thought there was some official recommendation by the manufacturer to avoid it.

Yes, mixing two oils from different manufacturers is discouraged due to the unknown effect on the additive chemistry. But that only means it isn't optimal, not that it is necessarily harmful. Especially in this case where the oil is from the same manufacturer I wouldn't personally lose any sleep over it. No one on here knows what the actual difference is anyway. A lot of people speculate but no one knows for sure. I certainly would not worry and drain my oil before the next scheduled change.


Thank you
 
It won't kill the engine or anything, it's simply that now you have an unknown oil, instead of a known finished oil that has been tested and certified.

You can end up with strange viscosity and possibly change cold performance. I personally don't intentionally mix if I can help it. But when I was flat broke and driving uber and my car was consuming a qt every 2k miles, I bought the cheapest quart of oil I could find. Happened to be supertech Dino. I think the original fill was valvoline maxlife. Car is fine.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
It won't kill the engine or anything, it's simply that now you have an unknown oil, instead of a known finished oil that has been tested and certified.

You can end up with strange viscosity and possibly change cold performance. I personally don't intentionally mix if I can help it. But when I was flat broke and driving uber and my car was consuming a qt every 2k miles, I bought the cheapest quart of oil I could find. Happened to be supertech Dino. I think the original fill was valvoline maxlife. Car is fine.


After spending too many cycles on going back and forth as to if I should change the oil, I ended up doing so.

I had about an extra liter of FS oil so ended up draining all the oil in my engine, putting in the extra liter, evacuating that out too and then putting in new FS oil.

I was at 10,000km anyways. Whatever, the oil was $62 in total and the oil filter (OEM) cost me $19. No biggie. Hoping to keep this car for a while.
 
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