It was the hauling that had caused the excessive wear, I was frequently towing near and sometimes above the "approved" tow weight so the tacoma got strained. The engine was still in half decent shape when it finally died, the winters had caught up to me and it was too rusted out to pass NH inspection, it would have been a 2500$ fix so I decided it was better to just upgrade.
Switching to Synthetic in new Truck
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Originally Posted By: NissanHauler
I'm liking the truck a lot so far. motor definitely has more getup n' go then my old tacoma ever did. Is the OEM filter paper or synthetic media? What is the efficiency in the OEM filter as well? My driving environment with my truck is real dusty (concrete plant/quarry) so I really have to have a high efficiency air/oil filter.
As far as I know the factory filter is paper and I don't know the efficiency. I do know Nissan has no prob recommending it to 7,500 miles of use. I have used and cut open several filters that fit your motor all looked fine although I must say I get less start noise with the standard factory filter and an AC Delco filter I tried (non ecore).
Keep a close eye on your air filter in that dusty environment I have found the factory Nissan filter is quite good.
I had a 2006 Toyota 4Runner V6 before my 12 V6 Pathfinder and I was shocked at how much better the Pathfinder is for towing my 5,000 pound camper. The motor has much more power on the hills.
I'm liking the truck a lot so far. motor definitely has more getup n' go then my old tacoma ever did. Is the OEM filter paper or synthetic media? What is the efficiency in the OEM filter as well? My driving environment with my truck is real dusty (concrete plant/quarry) so I really have to have a high efficiency air/oil filter.
As far as I know the factory filter is paper and I don't know the efficiency. I do know Nissan has no prob recommending it to 7,500 miles of use. I have used and cut open several filters that fit your motor all looked fine although I must say I get less start noise with the standard factory filter and an AC Delco filter I tried (non ecore).
Keep a close eye on your air filter in that dusty environment I have found the factory Nissan filter is quite good.
I had a 2006 Toyota 4Runner V6 before my 12 V6 Pathfinder and I was shocked at how much better the Pathfinder is for towing my 5,000 pound camper. The motor has much more power on the hills.
I've already thrown in my tried and true Spectre intake filter. excuse my lack of experience but its whats worked for me, If there's a more efficient intake filter I'd like to find it
I have Magnatec 5w-30 in my 2015 Xterra right now with the same engine as you have. Working fine for me. Plan on putting Magnatec back in on my next oil change.
If it calls for SN or newer 5w-30, rather than SN/GF-5 or newer 5w-30, the way the Nissan/Infiniti manuals are worded here, you get a few more choices, if you really wanted to venture out a little.
Originally Posted By: NissanHauler
I've already thrown in my tried and true Spectre intake filter. excuse my lack of experience but its whats worked for me, If there's a more efficient intake filter I'd like to find it
Depends on what kind of efficiency you are looking for... more air flow or better cleaning.
Here is a good read. Basically, stock OEM air filters are the best way to go.
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html
And to go along with that....
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/Air_Filter_Effects_02_26_2009.pdf
I've already thrown in my tried and true Spectre intake filter. excuse my lack of experience but its whats worked for me, If there's a more efficient intake filter I'd like to find it
Depends on what kind of efficiency you are looking for... more air flow or better cleaning.
Here is a good read. Basically, stock OEM air filters are the best way to go.
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html
And to go along with that....
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/Air_Filter_Effects_02_26_2009.pdf
Originally Posted By: tig1
You might consider M1. Between me and my son we put 354K on a Ford Ranger 3.0. When sold the engine still performed very well.
Well ofcourse you are going to reccomend M1, you sometimes sound like a Mobil salesman or representative no offence lol
You might consider M1. Between me and my son we put 354K on a Ford Ranger 3.0. When sold the engine still performed very well.
Well ofcourse you are going to reccomend M1, you sometimes sound like a Mobil salesman or representative no offence lol
I am a Royal Purple guy, but am thinking about switching to Pennzoil Platinum. Of the oils you listed, I would go with PP.
Moving my titan to PP next sump change. Been towing on M1 for 90K miles trucks still tight.
Im amazed you got what you did out of that Tacoma and not surprised at all that its worn out.
I think you'll find the Nissan will cost you less in maintenance (if only no timing belts) but take a bit more care as the sprockets and chains are known to shear oil and it'll will be harder on the oil than your yota was.
M1 or PP for me.
Im amazed you got what you did out of that Tacoma and not surprised at all that its worn out.
I think you'll find the Nissan will cost you less in maintenance (if only no timing belts) but take a bit more care as the sprockets and chains are known to shear oil and it'll will be harder on the oil than your yota was.
M1 or PP for me.
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I would run your oil of choice and have a UOA after say 5 or 6,000 miles and see what they say and if you can go longer on your oil its really the only way to know. As far as towing I would run something like Chevron Dello XLE 10w30 or Mobil 1 0w40 I have used both with my 4.0 V6 Pathfinder and both should give you that extra layer of protection when under towing stress.
There are plenty of Nissan VQ40DE V6 motors with many of thousands of miles on them and many of them will not be maintained nearly as well as you plan to take care of yours so don't overthink this. I have a friend that just traded his (09) Frontier with 210,000 miles running whatever cheep oil and filters were available at WM and he changed his oil between 7-9,000 miles and the truck ran great when he traded it in. Other then the early wearing timing chain guide issues the 2005-2010 models had the Nissan VQ40DE 4.0 V6 is a real solid truck motor.
There are plenty of Nissan VQ40DE V6 motors with many of thousands of miles on them and many of them will not be maintained nearly as well as you plan to take care of yours so don't overthink this. I have a friend that just traded his (09) Frontier with 210,000 miles running whatever cheep oil and filters were available at WM and he changed his oil between 7-9,000 miles and the truck ran great when he traded it in. Other then the early wearing timing chain guide issues the 2005-2010 models had the Nissan VQ40DE 4.0 V6 is a real solid truck motor.
Originally Posted By: NissanHauler
Just got myself a new 2015 Nissan Frontier (Crew Cab, SV 4x4, VQ40DE 4.0L V6) after my old 06' Tacoma died out at ~320k miles. I ran Valvoline conventional (OCI 4500 miles religiously) and Purolator One then upon release, the Purolator BOSS filters (changed with every oil change) the entire life of the Tacoma.
I do a lot of 4000lb+ towing and want a stronger oil and to extend my OCI to 6000. I've whittled down my choices to Valvoline SynPower, Castrol Edge with Titanium, and Pennzoil Platinum.
I plan to keep the Purolator Boss filters for life. Never had an issue and my used oil looked noticeably less dark once I started using them.
Looking for other opinions, I have experience with Valvoline products but feel that it wasn't as up to the job as I thought it was with my old truck. I opened up the engine and the cams, cylinders, and bearings were more worn expected considering how much I babied the truck
When you say the Tacoma died at 320k miles, what made it stop working? Something on the engine stopped working? Just curious, Toyotas are know for their longevity. Here is a Tundra with a million miles. Yes, most owners will never see that, but, it nice to know they are built well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HnokrriP_c
The cams, cylinders, and bearings were more worn than you were expecting, is it possible you weren't getting oil flow through the engine?
Found this a little while ago, not sure if it is accurate, but food for thought. Our dad has a 2006 Tundra, I used a Wix oil filter a couple of years ago, he was saying his truck was running rough during that time. I found this, switched to the Toyota Denso oil filters, and he says it is fine now.
http://www.iatn.net/forums/2/343599/toyota-4-0-l-1grfe-engine-failure-due-to-napa-1348-filter
I have used various Valvoline products in our vehicles and farm equipment, I want to like them, I really do, but, I have had issues with them.
Another thing I noticed, on the back of the Valvoline white bottle and Maxlife bottles, it says it exceeds American, European, and Japanese wear requirements, but for the Synpower, no such wording. I thought that was interesting.
Are you open to other brands? In our dad's truck, we are using Mobil 1 TDT, he tows a 20 travel trailer for his work. He just came back from Ruston, LA, which, is fourteen hours away. He came back in 90 degree heat towing the trailer. The Mobil 1 holds up very well in the heat. The heat didn't seem to phase the oil, the engine is running great. We have used Valvoline Durablend, Penzoil Platinum and Ultra, Rotella, and now Mobil 1 TDT in it. The TDT helps the engine run with a smoothness that the other oils have not been able to match.
Just got myself a new 2015 Nissan Frontier (Crew Cab, SV 4x4, VQ40DE 4.0L V6) after my old 06' Tacoma died out at ~320k miles. I ran Valvoline conventional (OCI 4500 miles religiously) and Purolator One then upon release, the Purolator BOSS filters (changed with every oil change) the entire life of the Tacoma.
I do a lot of 4000lb+ towing and want a stronger oil and to extend my OCI to 6000. I've whittled down my choices to Valvoline SynPower, Castrol Edge with Titanium, and Pennzoil Platinum.
I plan to keep the Purolator Boss filters for life. Never had an issue and my used oil looked noticeably less dark once I started using them.
Looking for other opinions, I have experience with Valvoline products but feel that it wasn't as up to the job as I thought it was with my old truck. I opened up the engine and the cams, cylinders, and bearings were more worn expected considering how much I babied the truck
When you say the Tacoma died at 320k miles, what made it stop working? Something on the engine stopped working? Just curious, Toyotas are know for their longevity. Here is a Tundra with a million miles. Yes, most owners will never see that, but, it nice to know they are built well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HnokrriP_c
The cams, cylinders, and bearings were more worn than you were expecting, is it possible you weren't getting oil flow through the engine?
Found this a little while ago, not sure if it is accurate, but food for thought. Our dad has a 2006 Tundra, I used a Wix oil filter a couple of years ago, he was saying his truck was running rough during that time. I found this, switched to the Toyota Denso oil filters, and he says it is fine now.
http://www.iatn.net/forums/2/343599/toyota-4-0-l-1grfe-engine-failure-due-to-napa-1348-filter
I have used various Valvoline products in our vehicles and farm equipment, I want to like them, I really do, but, I have had issues with them.
Another thing I noticed, on the back of the Valvoline white bottle and Maxlife bottles, it says it exceeds American, European, and Japanese wear requirements, but for the Synpower, no such wording. I thought that was interesting.
Are you open to other brands? In our dad's truck, we are using Mobil 1 TDT, he tows a 20 travel trailer for his work. He just came back from Ruston, LA, which, is fourteen hours away. He came back in 90 degree heat towing the trailer. The Mobil 1 holds up very well in the heat. The heat didn't seem to phase the oil, the engine is running great. We have used Valvoline Durablend, Penzoil Platinum and Ultra, Rotella, and now Mobil 1 TDT in it. The TDT helps the engine run with a smoothness that the other oils have not been able to match.
The New England winters and salt-happy New Hampshire DOT rusted her out
Originally Posted By: NissanHauler
The New England winters and salt-happy New Hampshire DOT rusted her out
So the engine was fine BUT other components around the engine rusted? If so then the engine didn't quite on you obviously...
The New England winters and salt-happy New Hampshire DOT rusted her out
So the engine was fine BUT other components around the engine rusted? If so then the engine didn't quite on you obviously...
yeah, the engine/powertrain was OK, but i dont think it would have lasted another 40k or so. it was burning ~1.5qt per OCI, lots of startup noise to where it sounded like a duramax. still it still performed well but was obviously on its last legs. the frame was pretty rotted, lots of holes in the paneling. it wasnt inspectable without major frame repairs so i parted it out after cracking open the engine and got the nissan
For the amount of towing you are doing, I don't understand why you don't use full-size trucks?
With that kind of use, getting 320k out of that Tacoma is pretty good...but I would have upgraded to a full-size Tundra or Titan if you wanted to stay with an 'import' truck.
Anyway, with the extreme abrasiveness of cement dust, I'd keep oil intervals short to flush it out of the engine - air filter won't catch it all.
With that kind of use, getting 320k out of that Tacoma is pretty good...but I would have upgraded to a full-size Tundra or Titan if you wanted to stay with an 'import' truck.
Anyway, with the extreme abrasiveness of cement dust, I'd keep oil intervals short to flush it out of the engine - air filter won't catch it all.
Garage is too small, the frontier is already a tight fit.
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I would have upgraded to a full-size Tundra or Titan if you wanted to stay with an 'import' truck.
Really....
The Nissan trucks are built in Smyrna, TN or Canton, Mississippi.
Toyota Tundra is built in San Antonio, TX.
Now Chevrolet and RAM trucks are hecho en Mexico. Those are import trucks.
I would have upgraded to a full-size Tundra or Titan if you wanted to stay with an 'import' truck.
Really....
The Nissan trucks are built in Smyrna, TN or Canton, Mississippi.
Toyota Tundra is built in San Antonio, TX.
Now Chevrolet and RAM trucks are hecho en Mexico. Those are import trucks.
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I would have upgraded to a full-size Tundra or Titan if you wanted to stay with an 'import' truck.
Really....
The Nissan trucks are built in Smyrna, TN or Canton, Mississippi.
Toyota Tundra is built in San Antonio, TX.
Now Chevrolet and RAM trucks are hecho en Mexico. Those are import trucks.
What I meant was buying a 'Japanese Brand' truck...a Toyota or Nissan, as opposed to a 'big 3' truck.
That is why I put the word 'import' in quotes..I KNOW they are all mostly built in NA.
I thought people here were smart enough to understand that...guess not!
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I would have upgraded to a full-size Tundra or Titan if you wanted to stay with an 'import' truck.
Really....
The Nissan trucks are built in Smyrna, TN or Canton, Mississippi.
Toyota Tundra is built in San Antonio, TX.
Now Chevrolet and RAM trucks are hecho en Mexico. Those are import trucks.
What I meant was buying a 'Japanese Brand' truck...a Toyota or Nissan, as opposed to a 'big 3' truck.
That is why I put the word 'import' in quotes..I KNOW they are all mostly built in NA.
I thought people here were smart enough to understand that...guess not!
I have a 2010 with 103,000 trouble free miles. I've fed it many different various 5w-30s, conventional, synblend, and full synthetic. My engine has always had a lot of top end rattle and the only thing that has stopped it is M1 0w-40. The 0w-40 hasn't affected my mileage at all either.
If it were mine, I'd run a decent synthetic 5w-30 for the factory recommend OCI until the warranty is up. After that, move to the M1 0w-40 at 7,500 mile OCIs and call it good! Great truck, I love mine!
If it were mine, I'd run a decent synthetic 5w-30 for the factory recommend OCI until the warranty is up. After that, move to the M1 0w-40 at 7,500 mile OCIs and call it good! Great truck, I love mine!
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