So my dad's a bit of an idiot (more so than me) and got himself a 2007 Montana SV6 and of course it's got transmission problems already. Sometimes but not always, when he stops at a stop sign for example then moves again, the transmission exhibits a rather objectionable clunk. I drove it for a few minutes and it happened to me one time as well. Upshifts don't feel harsh but when I was driving it I thought I noticed what felt like a little slip or flare when it was shifting between gears. Only did that once. Is this the pressure control solenoid going bad? Are these replaceable in a yard without a lift, or would it need a garage to handle the job? I watched a video and the dude had to drop the engine cradle a bit to get at the side pan.
4T65E pressure control solenoid replacement?
- Thread starter 55Test
- Start date
- Status
I should also add that my dad wants to try some Lucas transmission fix first to see if that will do anything.
If it only does it sometimes when warming up it's a known defect with a seal, and will not get worse. If you can live with it, then leave it alone. If it is doing all the time especially after warm up, above 120 degrees, it needs repair. Not sure on a Montans but on my car it's a big deal to get at the tranny. You have to remove the entire driver side axel, loosen bolts and lower the transaxel. I might add a transmission shop will tell you all kinds of things to get your money. Get lots of opinions, but most tranny shops will want to rebuild it at big $$$$.
Last edited:
I believe there's some sort of bottom-pan shift kit that sorta bypasses the solenoid. It somehow makes the pressure fixed at "mid-throttle" so it's not jarring, but also not slam-bam shifts at WOT.
I'd keep up on the fluid/ filter changes to limp this along. Don't want clutch dust or other odd debris gunking up the filter etc.
The comments here talk about it:
https://www.amazon.com/Transgo-T84167G-4T65E-Shift-Kit/product-reviews/B008XO9ATC
I'd keep up on the fluid/ filter changes to limp this along. Don't want clutch dust or other odd debris gunking up the filter etc.
The comments here talk about it:
https://www.amazon.com/Transgo-T84167G-4T65E-Shift-Kit/product-reviews/B008XO9ATC
My parents 2005 Chevy Uplander (save vehicle) did the exact same thing. That behavior went on for at least a year (although it seemed to only happen in the summer months) before they took it to a transmission shop. They found copper filings in the pan. They ended up getting a rebuild, but shortly after the rebuilt the problem presented itself again, they ended up installing a higher stall torque converter and changed a sensor and no problems since. Sorry I know that didn't really help you, other than the fact that I believe is was the sensor that was causing the slam from a stop behavior. And buddy it did slam, not a slip, more of a slight hesitation with no RPM jump then a big slam.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
they took it to a transmission shop. They found copper filings in the pan. They ended up getting a rebuild, but shortly after the rebuilt the problem presented itself again,
Sounds like they got charged for a rebuild, but nothing was actually done. I would avoid such a place in the future. When I finally got around to dropping the transmission pan on 1995 Escort at 165 - 180 K miles (somewhere in that mile range) the magnets looked like they had all they could hold, but I now have over 237K miles on that transmission.
they took it to a transmission shop. They found copper filings in the pan. They ended up getting a rebuild, but shortly after the rebuilt the problem presented itself again,
Sounds like they got charged for a rebuild, but nothing was actually done. I would avoid such a place in the future. When I finally got around to dropping the transmission pan on 1995 Escort at 165 - 180 K miles (somewhere in that mile range) the magnets looked like they had all they could hold, but I now have over 237K miles on that transmission.
I had an 2006 Impala that would slip, then jerk into gear when starting from a stop when hot. It had the same transmission 4t-65e. Apparently, the pressure is set too low when in D and at idle so that once some wear occurs in the transmission there isn't enough to keep 1st gear engaged leading to the slipping.
Supposedly the fluid pressure is kept higher when in 1 so it won't exhibit the same slip if you start from a stop with the transmission in "1" or "L" as may be the case.
A fluid flush, and filter change didn't change anything for me, The Lucas and trans go shift kit didn't work either. As I recall, the only part of the shift kit you can install from the bottom simply shims the accumulators, firming up shifts, but not fixing the problem of low transmission fluid pressure which I believe is electronically regulated.
Ended up trading it
Supposedly the fluid pressure is kept higher when in 1 so it won't exhibit the same slip if you start from a stop with the transmission in "1" or "L" as may be the case.
A fluid flush, and filter change didn't change anything for me, The Lucas and trans go shift kit didn't work either. As I recall, the only part of the shift kit you can install from the bottom simply shims the accumulators, firming up shifts, but not fixing the problem of low transmission fluid pressure which I believe is electronically regulated.
Ended up trading it
Classic symptoms of a "Short Lip" Input Clutch Inner Lip Seal, It being intermittent....I wouldn't do jack besides getting rid of it.
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: gregk24
they took it to a transmission shop. They found copper filings in the pan. They ended up getting a rebuild, but shortly after the rebuilt the problem presented itself again,
Sounds like they got charged for a rebuild, but nothing was actually done. I would avoid such a place in the future. When I finally got around to dropping the transmission pan on 1995 Escort at 165 - 180 K miles (somewhere in that mile range) the magnets looked like they had all they could hold, but I now have over 237K miles on that transmission.
Its a locally owned and operated shop that does work for our county police department. I would like to think they wouldn't hose customers, but in todays world it wouldn't surprise me.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
they took it to a transmission shop. They found copper filings in the pan. They ended up getting a rebuild, but shortly after the rebuilt the problem presented itself again,
Sounds like they got charged for a rebuild, but nothing was actually done. I would avoid such a place in the future. When I finally got around to dropping the transmission pan on 1995 Escort at 165 - 180 K miles (somewhere in that mile range) the magnets looked like they had all they could hold, but I now have over 237K miles on that transmission.
Its a locally owned and operated shop that does work for our county police department. I would like to think they wouldn't hose customers, but in todays world it wouldn't surprise me.
Trans shops are notorious for telling customers their vehicle needs a new trans. It makes them the most money and usually fixes the issue. Now if the trans is truly dead then of course the trans shop is fine. But sometimes a mechanic is better at diagnosing and fixing smaller type issues with transmissions.
After the dealer replaced the rear main seal on my 99 Accord there was immediate flaring between 1st and 2nd. A simple drain and fill of the atf solved the issue. The service mgr drove the car and agreed with me and they did the drain and fill. If I went to a trans shop.......your car needs a new trans sir.
After the dealer replaced the rear main seal on my 99 Accord there was immediate flaring between 1st and 2nd. A simple drain and fill of the atf solved the issue. The service mgr drove the car and agreed with me and they did the drain and fill. If I went to a trans shop.......your car needs a new trans sir.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Trans shops are notorious for telling customers their vehicle needs a new trans. It makes them the most money and usually fixes the issue. Now if the trans is truly dead then of course the trans shop is fine. But sometimes a mechanic is better at diagnosing and fixing smaller type issues with transmissions.
After the dealer replaced the rear main seal on my 99 Accord there was immediate flaring between 1st and 2nd. A simple drain and fill of the atf solved the issue. The service mgr drove the car and agreed with me and they did the drain and fill. If I went to a trans shop.......your car needs a new trans sir.
It did go to our local mechanic, twice if I recall, before it went to the trams shop. They couldn't figure out the issue without opening it up they claimed. So off the the trains shop it went. At least it got new clutch packs / torque converter and some new sensors. No issues in the last 2 years since the rebuild except for an annoying slight shudder from 1st to 2nd that's been there for quite a while.
Trans shops are notorious for telling customers their vehicle needs a new trans. It makes them the most money and usually fixes the issue. Now if the trans is truly dead then of course the trans shop is fine. But sometimes a mechanic is better at diagnosing and fixing smaller type issues with transmissions.
After the dealer replaced the rear main seal on my 99 Accord there was immediate flaring between 1st and 2nd. A simple drain and fill of the atf solved the issue. The service mgr drove the car and agreed with me and they did the drain and fill. If I went to a trans shop.......your car needs a new trans sir.
It did go to our local mechanic, twice if I recall, before it went to the trams shop. They couldn't figure out the issue without opening it up they claimed. So off the the trains shop it went. At least it got new clutch packs / torque converter and some new sensors. No issues in the last 2 years since the rebuild except for an annoying slight shudder from 1st to 2nd that's been there for quite a while.
Originally Posted By: Fsharp
Supposedly the fluid pressure is kept higher when in 1 so it won't exhibit the same slip if you start from a stop with the transmission in "1" or "L" as may be the case.
My dad has said he also notices that if he pulls the selector down into 1 that it doesn't do that bump. Maybe it would also benefit from being left in the 3 position? 85-90 percent of his driving is at or below 35 mph and 5-6 miles distance.
Supposedly the fluid pressure is kept higher when in 1 so it won't exhibit the same slip if you start from a stop with the transmission in "1" or "L" as may be the case.
My dad has said he also notices that if he pulls the selector down into 1 that it doesn't do that bump. Maybe it would also benefit from being left in the 3 position? 85-90 percent of his driving is at or below 35 mph and 5-6 miles distance.
Originally Posted By: 55Test
My dad has said he also notices that if he pulls the selector down into 1 that it doesn't do that bump. Maybe it would also benefit from being left in the 3 position? 85-90 percent of his driving is at or below 35 mph and 5-6 miles distance.
You'd have to try it and see.
I wonder if you could have a shop change the transmission line pressure settings to raise the pressure some when you're in D and at a stop. I dont know how possible or easy it is to reprogram the tcm/ecm (whatever it's called).
My dad has said he also notices that if he pulls the selector down into 1 that it doesn't do that bump. Maybe it would also benefit from being left in the 3 position? 85-90 percent of his driving is at or below 35 mph and 5-6 miles distance.
You'd have to try it and see.
I wonder if you could have a shop change the transmission line pressure settings to raise the pressure some when you're in D and at a stop. I dont know how possible or easy it is to reprogram the tcm/ecm (whatever it's called).
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Those transmissions suck. I'd trade it in.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
No issues in the last 2 years since the rebuild except for an annoying slight shudder from 1st to 2nd that's been there for quite a while.
Hmmm, it might need a drain and fill that the trans shop could perform since they're familiar with it. Also maybe a quart of Lubeguard Red and/or their other product Dr. Shudder Fix both available on Amazon. The Shudder Fix is a very small amount that can be added via the dipstick tube. So you can easily diy.
No issues in the last 2 years since the rebuild except for an annoying slight shudder from 1st to 2nd that's been there for quite a while.
Hmmm, it might need a drain and fill that the trans shop could perform since they're familiar with it. Also maybe a quart of Lubeguard Red and/or their other product Dr. Shudder Fix both available on Amazon. The Shudder Fix is a very small amount that can be added via the dipstick tube. So you can easily diy.
So, my dad had the van checked at a transmission specialist shop (on the dealer's dime) and they said the pressure control solenoid is definitely bad and something about 2 solenoids that control the torque converter lockup were also putting out poor data on their transmission scanner thing. Shop said the front subframe would have to be dropped, one of the axles would have to be removed then both transmission pans would have to be removed to inspect for any debris then they'd go from there. Looking at 1000 bucks just to even check for problems. The dealer took the van back and this coming Tuesday will be at the dealer-only auctions looking for another van for my dad.
I had an 02 Oldsmobile Intrigue that would do that occasionally if it got hot. The pressure control module would allow the trans to slip between shifts. This causes the computer to go to a hard shift mode to prevent more slippage. Easy fix though. Instead of tearing the entire front end apart to replace the pressure control module, I did the Trans Go shift kit myself. I owned the car for several years after I did that kit and it never did it after that.
- Status
Similar threads
