Bonding HD Polyethylene

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Running into a snag here finding an adhesive that will work. A plus is that is doesn't have to sit overnight.

The issue is with my Volvo door latch mechanisms. I pried the motor cover off without breaking it by first evenly heating the circumference using a pencil butane torch. I let it heat soak about 15sec, then went at it carefully with a flat screwdriver.

Problem is getting it back together. Tried a Permatex gasket adhesive; no joy. Tried hot glue; it came apart inside the door within a couple of days. Went back with silicone RTV, thoroughly clamped overnight. Had one come apart inside the door. I also discovered I didn't completely seal the entire circumference with silicone. That might have been why.

Turned over the black plastic motor cover and discovered a #2. That's the code for HD-PE. So I've been reading up on PE and PP. Some pretreat with hexane, then use super glue. As a quick test, I tried Hot Stuff (red) CA without hexane or heat, then twisted. It did come apart, but with some effort. Might work with an even bead around a 8" circumference though.

Also read up on first heat treating the area to glue to oxidize it before the adhesive is applied. Inside the groove, it looks like the original sealant was a thin, black bead. Maybe I can flame treat both halves, then clamp them back together until cool. Haven't tried that.

I also found a couple of places where I could drill a small hole straight through both sections, insert a small bolt, like a #4, put a nut on the other end to form a secure mechanical connection. Unfortunately, I can't do this all the way around the perimeter due to part of the other side being obstructed, electrical tracks running through the plastic and internal gears + motor.

This will require a belt + suspenders approach. I can wrap UL-181B duct tape around one long side, plus a diagonal but that's it.

What say the brain-trust?
 
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
The issue is with my Volvo door latch mechanisms.


Are you talking about the 2 tabs that hold the latch onto the door panel?

We did this fux to her Volvo back in March and used Permatex 84107 30 min 2 part epoxy.

We did about 4 "coats".. not sure if it was needed or not, but it's held up ever since.
I believe it sets up in 30 mins, but needs to cure overnight. She let it cure for 48 hrs and just rolled the window down to get in and out.

This is what I thought OP was talking about, but I think his is a completely different generation than hers.
http://s257.photobucket.com/user/fcostley1/media/Fiat/IMG_3576.jpg.html
 
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Thanks to all for weighing in! It's now 8:20p and I'm just finishing. Reinstalling the sled's driver door lock mechanism is a RPITA...emphasis on Royal. It's like throwing 6 rings into the air and putting a single arrow through before they hit the ground. This time complicated by a small plastic (!) piece that came off the outer door handle and fell far down into the door bottom...out of reach of even my long arms. That's never happened before. Didn't realize why it was so loose first, then looked all around the concrete, then thought maybe it fell down inside the door.

Geesh.........

Rather than goo up the motor case's mortise & tenon joint so to speak, I tightly wrapped the cover & body shut with multiple layers of UL-181Bx duct tape. If it fails, at least I can remove it. Incredibly sticky acrylic adhesive though, reinforced internally, with a durable covering. Did the same repair to the RR door. Much easier lock mechanism to deal with as there is more room to work, no need to remove the outer door handle, no key lock to mess with and much shorter door.

This is a common Volvo repair for the DIY crowd. They claim to use silicone RTV. Not sure why I'm having so much trouble. I am curious if Sonneborn NP-1 urethane adhesive would work here. Unfortunately, I'm clean out after fixing numerous old water/boat shoes with the remaining open tube.

Quality DT may just be the ticket. The heat index is still 100°F as I type! Cold shower + G&T time.
 
Again, read the threads I made. No need to wonder what to use or how to do things. Its all there to do it right. You helped to guide me
smile.gif
 
Roger. Thanks for that.

I should have added that the reason I used tape yesterday was (1) So I could temp fix the latch and drive the car and (2) wait until ya'll responded. Gooping up the joint meant I didn't want to mess it up with something else I found in the garage that didn't work the last time. Not that I wouldn't use a recommended method.

I'll check out your posts and read up. Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Are you talking about the 2 tabs that hold the latch onto the door panel?

No, there is a plastic triangular sort-of shaped cover that protects the motor & gears. It also holds one end of both gear shafts. When it comes undone, the gears can move due to torque, get out of alignment which causes the locking mechanism to quit working.

I'll post a photo later.
 
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