Cost of owning a clunker?

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Just thought I'd throw this out there, since the prevailing logic these days seems to be to keep buying new vehicles every so often and trade in your old ones when they start to get "old" to avoid "costly" repairs. There was even a government program aimed at this, which we did not take advantage of because it just didn't make financial sense. I decided I'd add up all the costs I can remember associated with owning and maintaining our older vehicle over the years for curiosity's sake and here's what I got.

The vehicle in question is a 1999 Cavalier, as basic as they come, 3 speed auto and power nothing, bought in 2006 with roughly 100k on it for $2700. Almost exactly 10 years later, it's about to turn over 230k. Engine and transmission have never been touched except for fluid changes. I've added up the cost of all repairs I can remember being performed on it (since I started doing the work myself, the information comes from RockAuto receipts, shop visits are from memory since the last time the car saw a shop for anything was 3 years ago, and back then it was out of necessity; we lived in an apartment that didn't let us work on our vehicles). I obviously did not include standard maintenance - brakes, tires, fluids - as you'd have those expenses even on a new car. There were probably a few junkyard parts I missed, mostly broken interior pieces if I remember right.

$2700 - Purchase price

Shop work:
$400 - "Tune-up" and 02 sensors (failed smog, mother in law let the smog place do the repairs)
$1000 - A/C compressor
$300 - Starter
$600 - Heater core

Rest was done myself:
$30.07 - Coolant tank, thermostat
$5 - Instrument panel bulb
$14.16 - Valve cover gasket
$45.79 - Radiator fan
$168.41 - A/C compressor, orifice tube, receiver/dryer
$56.37 - Blower motor, serpentine belt
$79.66 - Plugs, wires, 02 sensors (failed smog again)
$64.79 - A/C line set
$16 - Heater pipe (junkyard part, had to have that day)
$49.99 - Starter

Total cost of ownership, including purchase price: $5,530.24
Cost per month of ownership: $46.08

A lot cheaper than any car payment, and that would have gone down significantly had I been able to work on it myself for the first several years.
 
Face it ...New cars are more for ego and image than purely transportation. TCO has little to do with it. I guess I could buy that it is a reward someone gives themselves for working hard and being successful.
 
My Camry has cost me $50 in repairs since last August up until last month. It's 115 degrees outside, so I had my mechanic work on it. It needed 1 wheel bearing, I decided to just do both. Ball joint boots were just starting to tear, so he changed those. I did the valve cover gasket previously and used a cheap one. It leaked oil on the heater hoses so I had him change the heater hoses and valve cover gasket. Fuel pump was leaking fuel, had him put in a junk yard one.

So cost $1100 a month ago for all that work. It was totaled in a rear end crash in March (still drive able) and the guy's insurance company gave me $3400 for it after the buyback. It's still a free car, I paid $2100 for it.
 
I bought a van recently, and got a great deal on it. I do my own work, so my expenses are relatively small. The first owner probably paid $18,000 or something for it, and they drove it maybe 100k miles. I expect to drive it 100k miles and only paid $3000 for it. That is a great deal if you ask me!
 
I've bought two new cars in my life, both when I was younger and less experienced... Neither made it to end of the payments before I sold them to get out from under payments - I hate them
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Payments continue, even when the car is not running, or running right ...

From about 1975 on I have only bought cars and trucks with at least 100K on the ODO. Anything less and the initial price is too big... All of my cars and trucks have been like your Cavalier example. Cost of ownership is minimal. I needed the money for house, kids college, many other things besides some auto ego ...

Wanna go fast, the Sportster will do that. Wanna go off road, the 215K Big Bronco will do that (and tow the boat). Wanna haul gravel or building materials, the 1970 Chevy C-20 will do that. Wanna go in style, the wife's 1997 Jag XJ6 will do that and then some
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I have a fleet which means I have spares if one goes down. I can't think of one time in 50 years when they have all been down at once - never
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And that gives me the space and time to either fix it, or get it fixed if it's beyond me ...
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Oh, I know all about the payments thing. Wife bought her motorcycle brand new and within a couple months, the whole ECU/fuel injection system had to be replaced before it would run right (one cylinder would randomly cut out, which is NOT fun when you're riding on the freeway). I can't even tell you how [censored] off she was about making payments on a brand new non functional bike.
 
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My reason for sticking to newer vehicles is reliability. My trucks must tow often, nearly daily, for my business. If I have an old clunker that leaves my guys on the roadside, I lose thousands of dollars in business until it's fixed.

I also go on multiple long trips. I can't have the aggravations of clunkers on long trips. You never know what might happen that could leave you on the side of the road paying a tow truck & repair bill as well as making you late to wherever you are headed. With an old vehicle, you never know when a caliper might start sticking, a fuse might blow or a water pump might go...

No thank you. If I commuted to a job locally & didn't have to go on long trips, perhaps I would keep vehicles past 150K miles. The biggest problem with old vehicles isn't repair costs, it's the inconvenience of the repair itself & the downtime included with it.
 
You can get lucky with a beater car or hosed. A lot depends on how the previous owner(s) treated it. Little things breaking all the time add up. If you have the time and patience to DIY, you'll of course come out ahead versus paying a shop but if the beater is your sole means of transportation, the nervousness of wondering what's going to break next isn't fun. If you're getting some clunker 4x4 just for the winter months, that's a different story.
 
Originally Posted By: Anduril
Oh, I know all about the payments thing. Wife bought her motorcycle brand new and within a couple months, the whole ECU/fuel injection system had to be replaced before it would run right (one cylinder would randomly cut out, which is NOT fun when you're riding on the freeway). I can't even tell you how [censored] off she was about making payments on a brand new non functional bike.
No warranty?
 
Of course there was a warranty; it was fixed for free but it took the dealership that long to figure out what was wrong with it before they said [censored] it and replaced the whole computer/FI system.
 
I had a 1992 Nissan Sentra that I've gotten for free from my uncle. Most expensive repair was replacing the cracked windshield that ran half in the middle. We have safety check laws and the car wouldn't pass with a cracked windshield and testing laws were getting tougher so you can't just get someone to "pass" you.

Significant repairs done were fuel pump @ 185,000mi, water pump @ 195,000mi, tune up items, fluid changes, shocks, tie rods and end linkages. Everything replaced was still the original parts.

Hence I have a huge respect for B13 Sentras and from a guy that mostly drives trucks would be the only car I would drive.
 
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I've used $600/year as a rule of thumb. For that, I'll drive it till it's not repairable or safe to drive. In todays money, it's more like $1000/year. I've sent several cars/trucks to the JY using that cost basis.
 
When this subject comes up (remember, it's with people not like us) I ALWAYS say, "The cheapest car on the road is the one which is bought and paid for".

My friend;s son just refreshed his 2002 Saab 9-3 SE with ~200K with $3,000 of work. He paid $1,600 for it 27 months ago with 123K.
That's $170 per month and he's going for the 300K club.
He uses it for work and gets an allowance/mile. I found him the car.

His grandfather used to say, "Make repairs or make payments".

My only new car was a 1995 Subaru and I still sting from buying it. I must say there were no cars around anywhere to buy and I did look.

My 2002 Volvo V70 base. Bought over 8 years ago with My 1999 Saab 9-5 SE was dear old Mom's car and came my way on her death with
Hold out for a "next tech" car whether it's hybrid, pure electric or squirrel power.
I want carbon panel construction as well as a modern power system.

My sister sold her 1999 XJ (Jeep Cherokee) 42 months ago and bought a new Mazda3i Touring Skyaktiv (1998cc) new. She loves it and I think it was a good deal.
 
Originally Posted By: Oldmoparguy1
I've used $600/year as a rule of thumb. For that, I'll drive it till it's not repairable or safe to drive. In todays money, it's more like $1000/year. I've sent several cars/trucks to the JY using that cost basis.


I am assuming you are referring to purchase price... ie- $3000 purchase price = drive for 5 years. Or do you mean $600/yr for repairs. Over that, time to junk it.
 
I bought a 1993 Jeep XJ Cherokee in 1992 new and proceeded to drive it for 305k miles. I gave it to my dad when I bought a 2010 Toyota Tacoma new in 2009. I would like to see the same out of the Tacoma.
My son is getting ready to start driving, so I picked up a 2001 XJ with 105k miles for him. I must say that I have had to do more to get it back to solid running condition than I ever had to do on the '93. Consistent maintenance makes a big difference.

The '93 XJ was to the point of just being worn out for daily driver duty. Suspension, oil leaks, valve seal leaks, etc. does great as a farm vehicle.
My goal is to get at least another 100k out of the 2001XJ and to teach my son how to maintain a vehicle in the mean time.
 
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