So what do we think of BelRay?

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I use Bel-Ray gear saver 80-85 wt or hondaline 80-85 gearoil in my Cr250, 500 and crf450R transmission side. I think the Honda gear oil shifts smoother withless false neutrals. I use Belray thumper racing 10-40 or summer 20-50 in the 250 and 500 and the transmission side of the 450R and these seem to shift smoother than the gearsaver with less missed shifts than the gearsaver. I run Honda 10W-40 with moly or Bel-ray friction modified 10W-40 in the 450R engine side. both seem to work fine. I pulled the Bel-ray MSDS .1 to .25% antimony, no moly. I am wondering how much Moly the Honda oil has?
 
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correction on the belray MSDS
Antimony, Tris(dipentylcarbamo dithi

oato)

Classification: DSD: Xn;R20/22, N;R51/53

1 - < 3 %


2-piperazin-1-ylethy lamin e < 0,3 %
 
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Originally Posted By: BigCahuna
Sunruh, is it because you had a bad experience with GTX, that your don't recommend it? Alot of people use that oil and I haven't seen any posts about motor damage by anyone that uses it. I used it 30+ years ago in my bikes and never had an issue.,,


You've been lucky.Or,you don't do a lot of city miles,or canyon carving.I'll bet you do most of your riding on the open road,right? Plus,it's not really the motor you should worry about.Highway miles are pretty easy on the clutch and trans,and the clutch and trans are where modern car oils will actually damage your machine.

GTX is not m/c oil. In fact,it ain't the same stuff it was a few years ago.They've had to take a lot of the good stuff out of it to make it pass the API certs,and not ruin the cat converters.On the newer oils,I think,SJ on up,they've put in "fuel economy enhancers" that will make your clutch slip.Also car oil doesn't have the EP properties to protect the transmission.

That goes for any MODERN car oil,not just GTX. Hey,if you've got a 40 year old quart of GTX,or Quaker State,or whatever car oil laying around,go ahead and pour it in.Not the best oil,for sure,but it won't actually hurt anything.

If you are running it in an H-D or some other bike that runs separate trans/engine oil,you can get away with it for a while,but seriously,why? I've never understood some of my clients resistance to parting with 50 bucks to fill the crankcase on their 30 thousand dollar motorcycle. If you insist on using cheap oil,at least use Rotella,or Delvac,or Delo,or something like that.You can find sales on it for 12-13 bucks all the time,and while it's not motorcycle oil,it's a lot better than car oil for your bike.
 
I mixed 2 quarts of their conventional 10w-40 oil with some leftover Havoline conventional 10w-40 car oil to use in my 2 bikes ('06 Honda Shadow Aero 750 & '09 Suzuki GZ250) for winter storage, late autumn riding, and early spring riding; put a few hundred miles on each bike prior to hibernation and I'll use the oil for between 1000-1500 miles before changing oil (Spectro conventional 10w-40) for the regular riding season; not much of a test on the homemade blend but haven't had any clutch slippage and the shifting is good...
 
Originally Posted By: BluesRider
Originally Posted By: BigCahuna
Sunruh, is it because you had a bad experience with GTX, that your don't recommend it? Alot of people use that oil and I haven't seen any posts about motor damage by anyone that uses it. I used it 30+ years ago in my bikes and never had an issue.,,


You've been lucky.Or,you don't do a lot of city miles,or canyon carving.I'll bet you do most of your riding on the open road,right? Plus,it's not really the motor you should worry about.Highway miles are pretty easy on the clutch and trans,and the clutch and trans are where modern car oils will actually damage your machine.

GTX is not m/c oil. In fact,it ain't the same stuff it was a few years ago.They've had to take a lot of the good stuff out of it to make it pass the API certs,and not ruin the cat converters.On the newer oils,I think,SJ on up,they've put in "fuel economy enhancers" that will make your clutch slip.Also car oil doesn't have the EP properties to protect the transmission.

That goes for any MODERN car oil,not just GTX. Hey,if you've got a 40 year old quart of GTX,or Quaker State,or whatever car oil laying around,go ahead and pour it in.Not the best oil,for sure,but it won't actually hurt anything.

If you are running it in an H-D or some other bike that runs separate trans/engine oil,you can get away with it for a while,but seriously,why? I've never understood some of my clients resistance to parting with 50 bucks to fill the crankcase on their 30 thousand dollar motorcycle. If you insist on using cheap oil,at least use Rotella,or Delvac,or Delo,or something like that.You can find sales on it for 12-13 bucks all the time,and while it's not motorcycle oil,it's a lot better than car oil for your bike.
Can you provide any PROOF of damage that has occurred, or that spending $50 for oil makes your motor last any longer then using car oil in a Harley? .,,
 
Originally Posted By: BluesRider
On the newer oils,I think,SJ on up,they've put in "fuel economy enhancers" that will make your clutch slip.Also car oil doesn't have the EP properties to protect the transmission.


Negative... Advance Fuel Economy (AFE) or Energy Conserving (EC) are not additives... its an
API test that this "oil MAY result is an overall saving of fuel in the
vehicle fleet as a whole"
there is nothing new in the oil to defeat a wet clutch... mercy!!!
 
I have Bel Ray EXS in my Goldwing now, has almost 8k on this run, still shifts like the day I put it in.
 
Honda dealerships are now using Belray; surprising since Honda makes their own powersport oils. I just picked up my F6B Goldwing with Belray 10w-40 in it. WOW it's smooth. These bikes have a shared tranny sump, and I've never felt the bike shift so smoothly. I usually run the Mobil 4T 10w-40.
 
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