2006 Ranger/B2300 alignment/ball joints?

[simple_gifts]

Said vehicle is in my sig. 2wd.

A few years ago (30K miles maybe) i have bad tire wear on the inside; got a computerized alignment and the shop owner said it was 'borderline' not able to be aligned.
This was done @ a 'real garage'

I now have the same issue and the front end has started to groan and squeak; Quick web search seems to indicate ball joints.

My questions are

Is this the correct diagnosis
Should I have both sides replaced? Are there other things to replace 'while in there?'
Should I request a particular brand, OEM probably in this case obviously not 'best'

Not dumping the vehicle in the next decade if I can help it; it is about a 10-12K miles/year and my wood hauler/backup ride.

Any other tips would be appreciated.

-Thomas.

 

[exranger06]

To replace the upper ball joints, you have to replace the whole upper control arm. The ball joint is not removable from the arm. However, if you buy aftermarket arms, you can buy them with removable ball joints. So if you have to do this job again in the future, you can replace just the joint. Or you can buy aftermarket control arms with non-removable joints like the OEM ones.

 

[andyd]

Sounds like you need to do some car crawling and eye balling. The general rule with ball joints is that any play observed means the ball joint is NG. Torn boot, same thing. Check for tie rod end play too. Replace what is worn out and get it aligned before replacing the tires.

 

[eljefino]

Jack it by the frame/ crossmember so the tires are an inch off the ground, then stick a pry bar under the tire and try lifting it. You'll feel slop in the joints this way.

 

[Nick1994]

I'd just replace the control arms. $50 each for uppers and $70 each for lowers on Amazon for Moog.

+1 on checking tie rods.

 

[Kruse]

I've got a '98 Ranger that uses the same parts as yours. My vehicle was basically given to me last year when my cousin (the original owner) died. About a year ago, my front end was squeaking and I replaced both the upper and the lower control arms, on both sides. In my case, yes, the ball joints were making noise. The factory pieces are not known to last that long. Normally the boot tears and when dirt and water get inside, they have a short life afterwards. If you do have bad ball joints, you don't want to ignore them for very long as they can separate and then bad things can happen when you're going down the road at 60 mph.
I replaced mine with the good Moog parts. (Stay away from their economy "R" line) I'm sure there are possibly better parts available, but they've been good so far and I had no problem getting it into alignment specs. I have seen some cheap aftermarket parts that were impossible to get into alignment, so I would avoid them at all costs.
Of course, check all related parts while you're there.

 

[Toaster_Jer]

On my 98' I needed to replace 3 of the 4 ball joints. I would get the ones that can be replaceable. Think it's just better down the road. IMO

 

[DoubleWasp]

Go for the control arms.

 

[01rangerxl]

It certainly sounds like ball joints.

I would do both sides at the same time. You can do ball joints as needed, but you'll need an alignment each time, and the joints will be in various states of wear instead of all being about the same. I think knocking out as much as possible at once is best.

My truck didn't make noise and still aligned good, but had four cracked boots back in 2011 with around 125K miles. I decided to do upper arms and lower joints just to be done with it. No bushings though as those appeared okay and still seem to be okay. I decided on Raybestos Pro parts, which seemed to be very high quality, probably better than OE. So far so good about 60K mi later, but I think this line of chassis parts is discontinued. The higher grade of Moog is the lowest grade of part I'd consider due to the labor involved. Right now without doing more research, I'd probably say I would go with Deeza.

The labor is the worst part of ball joints, so I'd go for the highest quality option you can find. It's just not worth it to cheap out on the parts if you wind up doing it again in a year.

 

[barkingspider]

Replace all upper control arms and lower ball joints and call it a day. When I did mine, I used Moog. Good luck

 

[Merkava_4]

Moog CK80052

Moog CK80054

Moog RK620498

Moog RK620499

Moog ES800290

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Moog CK80052

Moog CK80054

Moog RK620498

Moog RK620499

Moog ES800290
+1, just had new Moog Problem Solver ball joints put in on my Camry and put their tie rods on my previous VW

 

[Kruse]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

Moog RK620498

Moog RK620499



You are recommending the Moog "R" line? The Moog "R" line parts are the cheapie parts that will most likely be made in China and are not Problem Solvers. If I'm reading the warranty for the "R" line, it says 36 months. The OP says he wants to keep his vehicle for a decade, not a year. You may as well recommend the cheapest junk sold from a local auto parts store that has a lifetime warranty and also recommend having the OP save the receipt. He'll need it.

 

[simple_gifts]

I appreciate everyone's input; the local autobody place which fixed my echo alignment issue no longer does suspension work unless it is part of an accident. I'm looking into 2 other places; got a few trips i need to go on, so a 6 week learning exercise is not in the cards.

Quote:

You are recommending the Moog "R" line? The Moog "R" line parts are the cheapie parts that will most likely be made in China and are not Problem Solvers.


I'll place Merk's recommendation up on the high shelf next to the 10w-40; Use only if other avenues are exhausted.