Grease for farm equipment?

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Would there be a good choice for one grease for all around use on the farm? PTO u-joints, hay baler bearings and tractors with loaders on them. Would prefer something that can be bought easily locally.
 
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Chevron EP-2 is used by fleets that probably cost more than than your farm.
 
Sta-Lube EP is also a good grease. But, if you have a Chevron jobber within reasonable distance, they can have you a case in no time
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I agree totegoat on the Chevron EP-2. Been using it on semi-trucks for at least 25 years. U-joints, slip yokes, chassis, brake cams and adjusters live longer with this grease. Only problem is cold pumpability with the no.2 grade. We use the no.1 grade in winter so you don't have to be Superman to run the grease gun.
 
Cheap and lots of it. Seriously- the best thing you can do is simply keep running grease through the joints to keep dirt and water flushed out. My buddy has lots of farm equipment that he maintains- he has never had a lube failure, except where something has never been greased. The grease? Cheapest stuff he can buy. Right now it's some high temp, EP stuff from U.S. Autoforce, one of our tire/parts suppliers.
 
Tom,

Welcome to the forum; great timing on the question, as this has been my little pet research project of late. First, a few responses...

Originally Posted By: totegoat
Chevron EP-2 is used by fleets that probably cost more than than your farm.

Specifically, what fleets are you referring to (large operation that's solely concerned with minimizing expenditure and making it to trade in time)? Is their greasing usage the same as what's mentioned above?

Originally Posted By: 12V71
I agree totegoat on the Chevron EP-2. Been using it on semi-trucks for at least 25 years.

Have you tried anything different recently? Greases have come a long way since the Berlin Wall fell...
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Originally Posted By: The_Eric
My buddy has lots of farm equipment that he maintains- he has never had a lube failure, except where something has never been greased.

I believe you Eric, but don't believe him for a second. Define "lube failure"; how's he determining that when a bearing seizes, a u-joint comes apart, or when loader pins are wore out that it wasn't because of grease?
 
Originally Posted By: tomky
Any thoughts on Valvoline Crimson? Readily available here.


That would be a fine choice. If you have a Tractor Supply in the area, I would go there for Mystik JT-6 as my first choice.

I grew up in the 1980's maintaining lots of farm machinery and we used Shell (don't remember the name) because that's what our little NAPA store carried. We greased both farm machinery and heavy dump trucks with it. We greased very regularly and never had failures. Lots of good greases available but for easily obtained, inexpensive grease, my vote goes to the Mystik with Crimson close behind.

Edit- I've used both Crimson and Mystik in my class 8 trucks and liked both. They are both well suited for heavy trucks and farm machinery. Again, with good grease and regular use of it, I've never had to replace a greased part.
 
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FYI - Valvoline Crimson has a dropping point of 360°F, and is only recommended by Valvoline for usage with non-disc brake wheel bearings.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
FYI - Valvoline Crimson has a dropping point of 360°F, and is only recommended by Valvoline for usage with non-disc brake wheel bearings.

I was just looking at the Mystik JT-6 specs and it is 325. I would not be using in any wheel bearings on disc brakes. Mainly lubing tractors, loaders, pto u-joints and bearings on a hay baler.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
FYI - Valvoline Crimson has a dropping point of 360°F, and is only recommended by Valvoline for usage with non-disc brake wheel bearings.


Yup I did see that recently. What's the difference between Crimson and Cerulean? I suspect you have checked them both (?)
 
Originally Posted By: tomky
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
FYI - Valvoline Crimson has a dropping point of 360°F, and is only recommended by Valvoline for usage with non-disc brake wheel bearings.

I was just looking at the Mystik JT-6 specs and it is 325. I would not be using in any wheel bearings on disc brakes. Mainly lubing tractors, loaders, pto u-joints and bearings on a hay baler.


Was that the JT-6 Hi-Temp? That's what I used and purchased at TSC but not sure if there is maybe a "non hi temp" version. The stuff I used is good for disc brake bearings. Sorry I left out "Hi-Temp".
 
Originally Posted By: dustyroads
Originally Posted By: tomky
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
FYI - Valvoline Crimson has a dropping point of 360°F, and is only recommended by Valvoline for usage with non-disc brake wheel bearings.

I was just looking at the Mystik JT-6 specs and it is 325. I would not be using in any wheel bearings on disc brakes. Mainly lubing tractors, loaders, pto u-joints and bearings on a hay baler.


Was that the JT-6 Hi-Temp? That's what I used and purchased at TSC but not sure if there is maybe a "non hi temp" version. The stuff I used is good for disc brake bearings. Sorry I left out "Hi-Temp".


It does say recommended for disc brakes, 325 degree operating and a 550 degree dropout. I looked at it wrong.
 
Originally Posted By: tomky
Originally Posted By: dustyroads
Originally Posted By: tomky
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
FYI - Valvoline Crimson has a dropping point of 360°F, and is only recommended by Valvoline for usage with non-disc brake wheel bearings.

I was just looking at the Mystik JT-6 specs and it is 325. I would not be using in any wheel bearings on disc brakes. Mainly lubing tractors, loaders, pto u-joints and bearings on a hay baler.


Was that the JT-6 Hi-Temp? That's what I used and purchased at TSC but not sure if there is maybe a "non hi temp" version. The stuff I used is good for disc brake bearings. Sorry I left out "Hi-Temp".


It does say recommended for disc brakes, 325 degree operating and a 550 degree dropout. I looked at it wrong.


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Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: dustyroads
What's the difference between Crimson and Cerulean? I suspect you have checked them both (?)

For starters...

Crimson = Lithium
Cerulean = Lithium Complex

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28381/grease-lithium-production-resistance

Originally Posted By: dustyroads
Was that the JT-6 Hi-Temp?

JT-6 Hi-Temp drops at 550°F


Ok got it. I just purchased a case of Crimson for my 5th wheel. I saw Cerulean on the shelf but wasn't sure what the difference was between them.
 
I see that the Valvoline Cerulean is definitely best compared to the Mystik. I stand by Crimson for farm machinery, especially if it's the easiest to get a hold of, but if Cerulean is sitting next to it on the store shelf I guess I'd grab that first.

I've been using Delvac Xtreme for awhile now and love it, but since my NAPA store stocks Cerulean I could see myself trying it.
 
Delo EP 2 is around $27 for 10 cartridge box from a distributor here. Delo EP comes in other consistency grades. Delo ESI (Extended Service Interval) comes only in grade 2. You can also look at Mobilgrease XHP 222 and Mobilgrease XHP 222 Special (0.75% Moly) both are ISO 220 with marine design pedigree, i.e. tacky like you cannot imagine. Those can be delivered from Zoro to your door for slightly more. Delo HD also has quite a few consistency grades and viscosity grades with Moly from 0 to 5%, including true synthetics. There is a lot of good grease around. Lubrication Engineers is a superb product with a premium price.
For light duty it doesn't really matter, for real heavy duty application watch the requirements closely, e.g. VG ISO grade, additives, missibility and compatibility, contamination, etc.

Examples: oil component of Mobilgrease XHP 222 Special is double VG ISO of Valvoline Synthetic, yet 1/3 in Moly content.

Driveshaft sliders on my Landcruiser prefer a moly fortified grease, but will do fine on a regular Delo EP as long as you do that by the book. Why? Because it's a light duty application.
 
I have been using some of the Valvoline Moly grease but was told it was a bad choice for bearings. Would you continue using it or switch to say the Mystik JT 0? If I switch will there be any problems caused by mixing?
 
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