Went to drop the trans pan......Uh NO WAY BABY!!

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2008 Rav4 kids high school "share" car....since new. 110,000 teenager miles.......new brakes 2x, new tires, new battery, tune up air filters 5000 OCI with QSUD 5w20.....dents & scratches ALL THE WAY around. I have done WS drain fils through the dipstick tube with my fluid extractor every 15,000 miles (4qts come out)so the ATF has always been clean....well finally got a factory filter (screen) and gasket to drop the pan and replace the screen. (I didn't know it was a screen). Dropped the plastic underbody cover to find 1/2 of the pan bolts are completely corroded. (Ohio road salt)...put the underbody cover back on....NO WAY am I snapping bolts off. The whole drive train and engine on the 2.4L is 100% bone dry at 110k.....no way....did the D/F and it shifts fine

Anyone want to buy a filter & gasket & o-ring really cheap?
 
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Same story here with my toyotas. I do DIY ATF flushes with maxlife and added an inline magnefine filter. There is no freaking way I'm going to try to break the rusty bolts and drop the trans pan. The ATF is clean and that is all it needs.

I hope the magnefine keeps it clean. You can easily add a magnefine atf filter. It has a magnet and filter in it, so it might help.
 
You bought your high school kids a new car in 2008 to drive? Impressive as I would not be able to stomach the kids scratching and denting a new car lol!
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I fail to understand this logic. Its too rusty so I won't touch it? If its too rusty now then imagine what will happen in a couple years. The corrosion is not going to magically stop or go away. I would fix it before it gets to the point of the pan falling out.
 
will the parts fit an '09 Camry? To OP. Give the bolts A face on tap or 2 with a hammer then try to tighten just a bit
 
Do the bolts screw into the inside? Or do they pass through and both ends are exposed?
If they screw inside, it shouldn't be corroded inside and the bolts should turn out fine. Make sure you get good fitment on the bolts. They surely aren't torqued all that tight.

If the bolts are exposed on both ends, I'd be spraying rust spray on there for a couple days and take them out carefully.

Of course, I really wouldn't be super concerned at only 110,000 miles. But like another poster said, you gotta do it sooner or later. Now is better then later.
Jmo
 
When I dropped the pan on my 2010, which was a former NY car, one of the bolts broke off, and left half of it in the case.

I was so mad.

Hasn't leaked in the past couple years, so I'm just going to leave it be, and never drop the pan again. The pan has a drain in it, but I was bent on replacing that filter. Turned out to not be necessary the pan was fairly clean and so was the filter.
 
Originally Posted By: volk06
You bought your high school kids a new car in 2008 to drive? Impressive as I would not be able to stomach the kids scratching and denting a new car lol!
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Yeah it was a 2008 lease special right after the stock market crash......they were giving cars away.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
If the OP doesn't know how to remove broken screws, it might be a good idea to leave well enough alone.


The don't use screws in oil pans. DUH?
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Originally Posted By: Srt20
Do the bolts screw into the inside?


No they go all the way into the case....plus, there are 18 of them and 11 are really rusted. My youngest is leaving for college in 6 weeks so, I am good for a few more years then it will get sold off.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Doog
The don't use screws in oil pans. DUH?
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What ? No comprende`
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They use bolts, not screws.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
They use bolts, not screws.


They use hex head cap screws. Usually M6X1.0mm



Well when you look them up in parts book...they are listed under "Oil Pan Bolts"
 
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Well when you look them up in parts book...they are listed under "Oil Pan Bolts"


You gotta get up to a fairly large fastener for it to be called a "bolt."

LINK
 
I use a ratchet and socket to remove bolts. I use a screwdriver to remove screws.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
I use a ratchet and socket to remove bolts. I use a screwdriver to remove screws.


I use a hex head screwdriver (nut driver) to remove hex head cap screws.
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Well when you look them up in parts book...they are listed under "Oil Pan Bolts"


You gotta get up to a fairly large fastener for it to be called a "bolt."

LINK


I go by what the people that make them call them. And they call them pan bolts. Same with timing covers, intake and exhaust manifolds. In the automotive world in the USA, they are all labeled bolts.

http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=2202
 
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