Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
We are aware of that generation SBC having cam failure issues, but you did not say what cam is in it, or more importantly, what lifters are in it? And which valve springs?
The number one check is to pull the valve covers (one at a time) after the motor is warmed up and idling and check to make sure all the push rods are spinning, and at the same rate.
If all the push rods are spinning at the same rate, you are likely good to go for many, many thousands of miles.
If any are slow or not turning, you either have a lifter bore off-center or a tight lifter. Your cam is already gone for all intents and purposes. You could then pop the intake and swap a few including that slow one, to make sure they are not tight. But it is going down hill.
For Oil, I'd just run VR-1 10W-30. It ranks well in race motors and street motors and has no critics that I know of. It has plenty of zinc and a good stout add-pak overall.
Another option is Maxlife 10W-40 (red bottle). It also has a good add- pak, so a lot of less than ground-pounder engine guys are starting to use it as a readily available street oil they can get most anywhere. I call it VR-1 jr
Personally, I have always had good luck with 15W-40 HDEO's in warmed over engines. I have a few well over 200K running on Delo400.
If the push rods are spinning, it's not a flat tappet cam, but a hydraulic cam. They have a convex face and the cam lobe is ground at an angle to cause the spin. But, this is likely a mild hydraulic cam engine even though the OP said flat tappet.
Im also wondering what Edelbrock heads he is using that have 58cc and not 64cc or larger chambers?
I agree with you on the oil. Its too bad the VR-1 is usually so expensive. But that engine should be safe on any quality oil.
