Best blend??

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Hey Guys,

I'm new here. I've been doing some extensive research and can't seem to find exactly what I am looking for. I've found some good answers on this site for years just by searching and reading. I'm not coming across the exact situation I am looking for right now.

So, my wife has a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.7L with 156K. It burns (maybe leaks but no dripping, still under investigation) oil...but it seems to get down to about 2 qts low and then it doesn't use any more oil, so it's kind of weird.

Anyway, I just changed the oil in it and while I want to move into MaxLife to help with the seals and such to help slow or eliminate burning, but I had a bunch of 5w20 conventional from a previous vehicle, so I decided to use it up on this oil change even though it calls for 5w30. I poured a bottle of STP in to thicken it up a bit. I still need to pour about 1.5-2 qts in as I didn't have enough on hand.

So, after a lengthy explanation, my question is What should I use for the remaining oil to wean into using a MaxLife formula. I found Valvoline now has a full synthetic MaxLife which I was considering to help create a syn blend since I have the conventional in there, but then the cost of the full syn and the rate it burns, I'm unsure.

Any help on which I should use, or any other advice on products to add, will be greatly appreciated.

Thank You in Advance,

Eric
 
First off
welcome2.gif
Eric


I would try the "red jug" MaxLife which is a synblend in 5w30
 
Welcome, Eric. I'll give specific, easy to follow, step-by-step directions here.

#1 - Verify PCV operation. Replace if necessary.
pcv_wj.jpg


#2 - Order 1 quart Kreen. http://www.kanolabs.com/engCle.html

Half a can in your gas, half a can in the oil. Run for 500-1000 miles, then drain.

#3 - Go with a dexos1 rated, high-mileage 5w-30. MaxLife is $15 for 5 quarts at Walmart right now.
 
Originally Posted By: car51
First off
welcome2.gif
Eric


I would try the "red jug" MaxLife which is a synblend in 5w30


Thank You.

That's what I planned for the next oil change, but for now, would there be benefits that offset the cost to topping off with the full syn MaxLife vs the blended MaxLife?
 
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Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Welcome, Eric. I'll give specific, easy to follow, step-by-step directions here.

#1 - Verify PCV operation. Replace if necessary.
pcv_wj.jpg


#2 - Order 1 quart Kreen. http://www.kanolabs.com/engCle.html

Half a can in your gas, half a can in the oil. Run for 500-1000 miles, then drain.

#3 - Go with a dexos1 rated, high-mileage 5w-30. MaxLife is $15 for 5 quarts at Walmart right now.



Thanks for the reply, I forgot to mention I changed the PCV when I changed the oil last night. Also, I am running Star Tron in my fuel since I've bought the Jeep. Would the Kreen still be recommended?
 
Yes. Kreen is an entirely different, extraordinarily potent product. Additionally, it's one-time usage/expenditure.

P.S. - Don't get caught up on "synthetic", especially when what can be classified as such depends on the country you're in. Look at approvals/certifications.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Yes. Kreen is an entirely different, extraordinarily potent product. Additionally, it's one-time usage/expenditure.

P.S. - Don't get caught up on "synthetic", especially when what can be classified as such depends on the country you're in. Look at approvals/certifications.

I agree, I've never been caught in th synthetic hype. I bought my truck new, and the dealer called for conventional, so for 146K I've been putting in the Mopar bulk conventional 5w20 oil...Next oil change I was considering MaxLife (changing anyway, either Valvoline conventional or MaxLife, as I found out Mopar switched from Valvoline to Penzoil, and I've just never been a fan of Penz), depending on results I see in Jeep, just to prevent leaky valve seals...though it's never used a drop of oil.
 
I own the same Jeep. When I first bought it I ran some PP 5w30. It used a quart in the first 2000 miles. I switched over to PHM 10w30 and it did much better. I swapped in a new PCV and now run PYB 10w30 with good results. I top off with about a half quart for every 5,000 mile OCI.
 
I'd just finish it off with what you plan to put in it in the end - MaxLife 5w30. Most any non-high-perf. pushrod engine is more than adequately lubricated with a synthetic blend such as that, so I really see no benefit to trying to make your own syn blend - besides, I'm not sure if it works that way. Kudos on switching to MaxLife, though - good stuff.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys. I love finding new forums with knowledgeable people. So it is settled, MaxLife is topping off.

Next question is, Should I put in the (approx) 2 qts to top off a 20w50 to thicken the 5W20 I put in, when the engine calls for 5w30??? Or should I just put in the 5w30 and wait until it burns out the 5w20 and keep topping off with the right stuff?

Also, would I benefit from switching to MaxLife for my truck (06 Dodge 5.7 Hemi 146K) even though she's never used a drop of oil?
 
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Originally Posted By: HemiMoparGuy1981
I love finding new forums with knowledgeable people.


Then why are you ignoring it, and going off on some half-cocked tangent?

Don't buy an additive to thicken it up.
Don't use an absurdly thick oil.
Don't use a wrong oil out of convenience.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: HemiMoparGuy1981
I love finding new forums with knowledgeable people.


Then why are you ignoring it, and going off on some half-cocked tangent?

Don't buy an additive to thicken it up.
Don't use an absurdly thick oil.
Don't use a wrong oil out of convenience.



I didn't go off on a half cocked tangent, I was asking about MaxLife, so I added another question once just about everything else was answered.

The additive was already added before I inquired here, and I didn't share EVERY detail, the additive was also to help with a bit of a knock that I hear on start up and on revving, it seems to be right at the exact RPM, around 1500 or so, when the VAHroooom happens at startup then settles into idle

I'm not putting in absurdly thick oil, I just want to make the best of the "mistake" I made using the improper oil, and I asked before I acted, still waiting on an answer to that specific question.

I didn't use the wrong oil sheerly out of convenience, I had it, wanted to use it, and go through so much oil in this vehicle right now, I didn't think it'd matter much, before I started thinking it through more, and then found a place to get more useful information.

I'm sorry that I didn't give ALL the details that I didn't think were too relevant to my specific questions in this thread, I know I get a bit irritated when people give their life story to ask about one little problem, and since I know I have a tendency to ramble myself, I try to cut back in details a little. Thank you for your replies and advice.
 
Hey OP,

Welcome !!

Many people in Australia top up an oil burner with 20W-50 in all sorts of cars. It's a common practice here and I have never seen it cause problems. But we don't have real cold starts here, rarely below freezing where I live.

Take the standard Buick V6 engine, over there you probably use an ILSAC 5W-30, while over here we probably use 15W-40 in the same engine.

Some may argue it's not ideal, pro's & con's both ways, but it's certainly not crazy.
 
So, here's an update. The vehicle seemed to have been well cared for from previous owner, which is why I bought it. I don't know what he was using for oil, but I had this steady oil loss issue since I bought the vehicle in December 2015. My first oil change was with the aforementioned 5W20 conventional (calls for 5W30) and I think I put STP in to help make up for using the improper oil. But this standard bulk Mopar oil from the dealership is only slightly ambered more after 2000 miles, and the vehicle has not lost any oil.
 
I have a worn out high mileage Crown Vic at work that is flogged constantly and they insist on running 5w20 dino bulk in it at 5k OCI's. It normally uses about 2 quarts over that time. Last time they changed it I put a single bottle of blue STP in it on the sly just for kicks. Sure enough it is about ready for another change and it has only used a half quart.
 
Good old STP is Poly-Iso-Butalene if I remember correctly ... It has been working in some form or another for about 50 years now. It is the common agent in early multi-vis oils. There is nothing wrong with adding a can, we've mostly all done it to an oil burner
beer3.gif


But I'd also add a can of BG109. Kreen is better, but may be harder to come by... The BG can stay for the whole oil change interval. It's not quite as a aggressive (or effective), but will certainly start to loosen anything stuck or with a tendency to stick including portions of the PCV system. It will slowly dissolve some ring gum too.

After this OCI, I'd switch to a higher Maxlife red bottle as suggested. It's good oil and may help with any weeps or seeps ... But if there are no spots on the ground from sitting over night, it's not leaking. It's either going by the rings (less likely) or going through the PCV system (more likely).

Run the Maxlife and a few hundred miles before the change due then, add that can of Kreen that you mail ordered in the interim. Then see what you have by say the fourth oil change
smile.gif


Doing these chemical treatments is relatively easy, ofttimes effective, and allows you normal driving situations. Anything else involves either shop time, or you taking the car out of commission while you do the work yourself...
 
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Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Good old STP is Poly-Iso-Butalene if I remember correctly ... It has been working in some form or another for about 50 years now. It is the common agent in early multi-vis oils. There is nothing wrong with adding a can, we've mostly all done it to an oil burner
beer3.gif


But I'd also add a can of BG109. Kreen is better, but may be harder to come by... The BG can stay for the whole oil change interval. It's not quite as a aggressive (or effective), but will certainly start to loosen anything stuck or with a tendency to stick including portions of the PCV system. It will slowly dissolve some ring gum too.

After this OCI, I'd switch to a higher Maxlife red bottle as suggested. It's good oil and may help with any weeps or seeps ... But if there are no spots on the ground from sitting over night, it's not leaking. It's either going by the rings (less likely) or going through the PCV system (more likely).

Run the Maxlife and a few hundred miles before the change due then, add that can of Kreen that you mail ordered in the interim. Then see what you have by say the fourth oil change
smile.gif


Doing these chemical treatments is relatively easy, ofttimes effective, and allows you normal driving situations. Anything else involves either shop time, or you taking the car out of commission while you do the work yourself...


I considered the Kreen since I bought this vehicle used, just to kind of know what I have, knowing it's cleaned out quite well internally, as best as possible without teardown, like you mentioned. There seems to be A LOT of love-hate about it around here. I'm pretty much right in the middle, knowing the BEST way is a full rebuild, but the Kreen cleanse is better than the sludge build up. I caught a lot of flack for asking about the stuff, some even said, how do you know the previous owner didn't run Kreen JUST before you bought the vehicle, etc. So I just don't know what to actually think about it at this point. I was going to run the BG109, because I have the lifter tick that this engine is notorious for, and I saw a few youtube videos that show that it eliminates that tick. Then, yes, I planned to switch to MaxLife oil after this OCI.
 
If you have an oil burning/loss issue then I wouldn't bother with synthetic. IMO I would go right for Pennzoil High Mileage 5w20 or 5w30, whichever your flavor.

Deep down I wish I had the 4.7 but the 4.0 does me well in my WJ. Keeps my youthfulness at bay since there is no way I can race anyone in 4k lb jeep with an inline 6 LOLOLOL!

My f150 5.4 uses a little oil towards the end of it's oci. I just checked today and it was a teeny bit low. I didn't have any 5w20 but the 5w20 pyb in it had a little Pennzoil HighMileage 5w30 added to it. Should be roses til I need to change it out in 500 miles.
 
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