Considering a differential swap

[buck91]

Picked up a NIB Eaton Posi for my F150 with the Ford 9.75 rear end. Its now a d/c part, but it is definitely the correct part for the truck and is definitely an Eaton Posi. Did my homework, clutch packs are common to other applications so future rebuilds shouldnt be a problem.

Anyways, REALLY tempted to do this myself. Not really to save money but just for the "fun" and pride. Pretty familiar with the process, and aware of the measurements and such. But a couple questions I'd like to discuss.

1. I've heard that the carrier bearings "should" be replaced with this job which makes sense since you'd have to remove the old ones from the old carrier before reinstalling. Any recommendations on quality bearings that won't break the bank? Timken vs. FoMoCo vs. SKF... and the best place to buy?

2. Have spoke with multiple people online who have done Eaton Truetrac installs reusing the original shims and everything ended up within spec. This is the goal but I want to be prepared. What is the best adjustable shim sets? I don't see pinion depth being a factor here.

3. Truck has 80k miles right now with no rear end issues. Is there any reason to worry about replacing the wheel bearings and seals while its all apart?

4. Ring gear bolts. Many sources claim they are supposed to be single use only. Many other sources say "yeah, but..." Thoughts on reusing? I've reused them on 8.8 rebuilds in the past.

 

[oldhp]

1. New bearings. Any of those you listed would be ok....I would go with Timken.
2. Factory shims are good, Eaton should also have shim pack if needed. Pinion depth should not matter in this case.
3. Check bearings install new seals, why not?
4. Use one time. They don't cost that much.

Have FUN!!!! It's not that hard to do.

 

[punisher]

Ditto on everything oldhp said, plus new races if they are not included with the bearings. I messed up once, assuming the race and bearing were a pair, and not all are. All you have to do is set ring-pinion clearance/backlash. I looked at some diagrams to make sure the shims go under the races unlike a Dana 60. Much easier to set up the FoMoCo diff.

Have fun.