2002 Buick Century, M1 0w40 LL01, 5,522 miles

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This is Mobil 1 0W40 SN European LL01 Formula. 2002 Buick Century with GM 3.1L V6. 5,522 miles on oil with a Fram Ultra XG3377A + filter mag.

Now monitoring possible coolant leak into oil. No uoa was done on the last fill between October and now we racked up a lot of miles so I dumped it pretty quick.
I'm not 100% sure if sodium is from oil or not because sometimes I dump random oil into the sump while I'm doing an oil change and the plug is out/empty to flush extra junk out of the pan.

I am losing some coolant though, I had to top off the overflow tank twice in a year iirc. Coolant is Zerex G05, so I'm not sure if sodium would be from that or not.

The shorter changes are because of monitoring previous high wear and known coolant loss. Current fill is the same Fram Ultra filter with a brew of synthetic I had lying around, 1 quart Mobil 1 TDT 5w40, 1 quart Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 and 2 quarts edge 10w30 gold bottle.
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A large % of these engines will have to have the lower intake manifold replaced at some point. Sometimes the coolant doesn't reach the oil sump.
 
Unfortunately the lower intake manifold gaskets have been replaced once already but it was right before I took ownership so I don't think they used the problem solver gaskets.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Looks pretty good, I remember voting for the Mobil 1 0w40 lol.


The Frankenbrew I have in there is pretty thick too. I might pick another 0w40 before winter or Rotella T6 5w40.
 
12.58 visc seems pretty strong for an oil known to shear down a ways during an OCI. I'd have expected 10.8-11.5 similar to the other 3 (assuming those were a 40 grade too). It may have been thickening up. Some of the VOA's show the new M1 0w-40 FS starting off at 12.4-12.8.

The only oils I know with significant sodium are Valvoline, Napa, and some of the boutique oils (Lukoil, RP, Lucas, Schaeffer, etc.).
 
All of the previous oils were 5w30

Oldest uoa was PP, then PU, then Defy SL

I really don't think it was anywhere near oxidation thickening especially with 3.0 TBN
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
All of the previous oils were 5w30
Oldest uoa was PP, then PU, then Defy SL
I really don't think it was anywhere near oxidation thickening especially with 3.0 TBN

I too would think so ...
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Normally what we attribute to shear is actually fuel dilution, and since this isn't a hi-po engine, that's likely not a problem here, so viscosity loss didn't happen.
 
Might be a little off the topic. I don't know if shearing is a characteristic of all M1 oils. The last UOA with M1 0w30 sheared to 8.55. At least all the metals looked excellent with it in.
 
I'm always surprised by my high Flashpoints, even when I was doing extreme idling with lots of short trips and took a sample without warming up I've never had low Flashpoints. These engines run warm, at least mine does almost always above 210 coolant temp and in traffic it will hit 230 before the second fan kicks on
 
Originally Posted By: Toaster_Jer
Might be a little off the topic. I don't know if shearing is a characteristic of all M1 oils. The last UOA with M1 0w30 sheared to 8.55. At least all the metals looked excellent with it in.

What was the flash?
 
Engine is in rough shape...for a top-grade, long drain syn oil, these results aren't great...engine is beating up the oil.

With no Potassium, there is not likely any coolant...?

I'd go with a cheap 15W-40 HDEO, and change it every 3k to try and keep the engine clean and wear down.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Engine is in rough shape...for a top-grade, long drain syn oil, these results aren't great...engine is beating up the oil.

With no Potassium, there is not likely any coolant...?

I'd go with a cheap 15W-40 HDEO, and change it every 3k to try and keep the engine clean and wear down.


If you compare it to the previous uoas the wear is much less now.

Also I'm using Zerex G05 coolant so I'm not sure if potassium is in that type of coolant.
 
None of your results are great...lead probably dropped b/c you have worn off the bearing face and are into the copper more.

None of this is your 'fault' - once these engines start wearing 'badly', it is all downhill and they just wear out. I've seen it first-hand in a reasonably well-maintained 1987 Century 2.8...engine just got worse and worse until it could not hold oil pressure much at about 120k miles..

Go thicker, it will help cushion more miles out of the engine.
 
I don't think I've worn out all the lead yet because copper is within normal limits. Most gm engines throw lots more copper than this in healthy condition.

I also noted my silicon dropped because the air filter has been in for over two years now undisturbed. I am thinking this helped wear too.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Unfortunately the lower intake manifold gaskets have been replaced once already but it was right before I took ownership so I don't think they used the problem solver gaskets.


Bar's Leaks liquid copper LIM gasket sealer has fixed a couple of those stupid things for me. Worth a shot.
 
Flash was 400 with a TBN of 3.0 after 5,600 mi. Could be all the runnin between 4.0 and 4.5 RPM. I've read a timing chain can shear the oil, but I don't know. Insolubies were 0.2 with an Ultra filter also.

Thanks
 
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