Lubegard Bio/Tech cut my oil consumption in half

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On the 5th of March, I changed the oil on my CVPI and used Maxlife 5W20 with Lubeguard at the recommended 3oz/quart dose.

Prior to that I was using straight Maxlife 5W20 and in the course of 14k miles I had to add 5 quarts of oil. Every 2500-2750 miles it would be due for a quart very reliably.

The first quart after the March change I had to add at 3500 miles. I didnt have to add a second one before I changed it May 9th with 7k miles on the oil. It was about 3/4 quart down when I changed it.

Since May 9th Ive put another 4k miles on the car and right now its down about 2/3 of a quart. Im thinking it will get to 6k and still not need oil at which point Ill do a sump drain and fill, leaving my Ultra on the engine.

What say you? I think I have a pretty good case since all I did was add Lubegard to the same oil I was running before. Obviously I am driving it a lot more. Before the March change, that 14k took 2 years to complete, and in the 3 months since I put 11k on it.
But, the car doesn't leak on the ground. So its not losing oil just sitting there. My biggest external leak is the valve covers, which I would think would mostly leak while the engine was running.
 
I don't know if Lubegard Bio-Tech did slow down your oil consumption. May be Maxlife started to do its job after the second or third change.

My daughter 2006 Volvo V70 is still consume some oil even after the complex PCV system had been replaced. I tried Lubegard Oil Saver twice and it didn't seem to work, I may try Lubegard Bio-Tech with Maxlife 10W30 next time.
 
Hi Colt
I use both (not in the same vehicle) LG Bio Tech (tri-nuclear moly almost colorless solution) & LG MSO2 (the black stuff-mononuclear moly suspension) and both of these products have reduced oil consumption in every older engine I've tried--even the 6.75 B&S Toro Recycler lawnmower--totally eliminated the puff of smoke on startup on an almost new engine---all the other test engines had > 75K miles on them.
My butt-dyno notices an increase in part throttle responsiveness in the vehicles I've used it in.
I think you will find the black moly is much less expensive.
Steve
 
Run 10w30 or even 15w40 oil and you would cut you oil consumption even more. I don't get it. 5w20 would be the most suspected oil to be used. All you probably did was thicken the oil. Go thicker.
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
Run 10w30 or even 15w40 oil and you would cut you oil consumption even more. I don't get it. 5w20 would be the most suspected oil to be used. All you probably did was thicken the oil. Go thicker.

Nooope. The Bio/tech is thin. Thinner than a typical 20 grade. My UOA Visc went from 9.2cSt to 9.1cSt.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
Run 10w30 or even 15w40 oil and you would cut you oil consumption even more. I don't get it. 5w20 would be the most suspected oil to be used. All you probably did was thicken the oil. Go thicker.

Nooope. The Bio/tech is thin. Thinner than a typical 20 grade. My UOA Visc went from 9.2cSt to 9.1cSt.


I agree with it being thinner, but I would try an OCI with Maxlife 5W30 without the Biotech. I have a few large bottles of Biotech and use it but I really think Maxlife 5W30 would do the job...
 
Finally gave in and topped up at the 5k mile mark. It was maybe 2oz shy of a full quart to fill up. Ill push it out to 7.5 and change the sump.
 
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