'01 Mustang Gt - New ticking noise after last OCI

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Hello all. I've been lurking around on this site and finally created an account so that I may post an issue Im having as of about 2 weeks. My name is Kris
grin.gif
and I have recently developed a ticking noise on my 01 Mustang GT that I first noticed while my car was idling in a drive-thru.

Specs of the car:
- Original 4.6 motor
- 142,563 miles (current)
- Last oil change done - 138,900
- Mobil 1 5W-20 w/MMO (5qts Oil 1qt MMO) w/FRAM Oil Filter (and yes after reading around here FRAM is [censored]!!)

Whether the motor is cold or warm, I hear a ticking (like a lifter) noise coming from under the hood. I didn't need a stethoscope to know that it's coming from the passenger side head (towards the front of the car). The sounds rev matches no matter what RPM, however it does not audibly increase.

So far from what I've gathered, it may be a sticking lifter, or "stretched timing chain". From my mechanical experience, chains break, not stretch.

Just today I have purchased a Motorcraft Oil Filter (thanks to you guys) but I am not sure if this will resolve the issue. I did read that with an inferior oil filter, it may starve the top end of the motor on cold starts. I have experienced a jerk type feel before on cold start that you can feel pretty well through the car.

source of info I have found about the oil filter: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/55

An inferior drain-back valve or the lack of a valve where needed, may promote expensive damage

Overhead cam engines use long chains or belts to drive the camshafts. These drives are usually kept tight by hydraulic tensioners. A tensioner has a hydraulic piston and uses engine oil to push against the chain or belt. Without this pressure there will be a jerk on startup which can break chain guides and cause severe problems.


Any help is very much appreciated.

Thanks!
 
The MMO thinned the thin oil . Run a 5w or 10w-30 untill you meed to start the engine in beloe 0F temps.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Why are you putting MMO in with a quality, properly formulated synthetic oil?

This. What were you trying to accomplish with the MMO?
 
although i always liked MMO and used it a lot in the shop running a 20wt oil with MMO would thin the oil to much in my opinion..If you revved that engine a lot with the MMO there could be a problem..Change the oil to a 5w30 or 10w30 in the summer and hope things get better.. You can use MMO in the gas and if you have a stuck valve that may help.
a motorcraft filter was always my choice for Fords but the fram Ultra is a good filter also.
 
I don't rev my engine past 4-5K so I'm hoping there is no damage? I threw MMO in there to help loosen up any crud or sludge (assuming there was any) just as a preventative maintenance.

From what everyone is saying so far, it seems that MMO may have brought my oil down a weight?

Edit: And I have also confirmed that the injectors are not making the typical noise that the modular motors are renown for.
 
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A good oil (like what you are running) with a good filter at a sane interval is all that is required. It does not need a Wizard in a can, this isn't a neglected engine.

Don't make the mistake of fixing something until it is broken.

The 4.6L and 5.4L for certain years had a manufacturing defect with the timing chain tensioners which caused them to fail. The nylon was not properly finished (it was rough) and it resulted in them wearing out far faster than they should. My buddy's F-150 with the 4.6L had the guide fail and caused the chain to jump. New guides and chain setup and he is golden. I was quite lucky, my old Expedition apparently got good guides, as I've had zero issues at close to 3x the mileage he has.

I would first ascertain the location of the noise you are concerned with. If it is coming from the valve cover, it is just an HLA, and can be safely ignored. It could also be a touch of piston slap, perhaps you've worn the teflon off the skirts at this point?
 
Adding MMO to a thin oil like a 5w20 is not a good idea, you run the risk of damaging the turbo bearings in particular. If you think the engine is starting to accumulate deposits, just reduce the OCI.
If the tick does not stop when the oil and filter are changed, try moving up a grade to an 0 or 5w30.
If you can afford it, stick to OEM oil filters supplied by the dealer. Motorcraft parts are good.
 
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My Mustang is a mid-year production run so I have the Romeo block and not the Windsor. If I remember correctly, the 99 to early 01's had the notorious chain guide failures.

I am hoping that the teflon on the piston skirts have not worn out but I wouldn't be able to ensure that unless the motor was torn down.

I do drive around at around 2500-2900 RPM's a day as I have 4.10 gears. I do not think that this would affect the engine in a negative manner.
 
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1st of all Kris,
welcome2.gif



You said:
Originally Posted By: Twisted1
I don't rev my engine past 4-5K so I'm hoping there is no damage? I threw MMO in there to help loosen up any crud or sludge (assuming there was any) just as a preventative maintenance.


and:
Originally Posted By: Twisted1

- 142,563 miles (current)
- Last oil change done - 138,900


Guessing from those two you are using M1 at only a 4000 mile OCI. If you've been doing this all along:
1) There IS no crud or sludge and
2) You most definitely do NOT need the MMO.
(also true for at least 7500 mi with M1)


Originally Posted By: Twisted1

From what everyone is saying so far, it seems that MMO may have brought my oil down a weight?


It may have. Getting that (*^&#$@ out of there ASAP would be my plan.

The 4.6 was originally factory specified for a 5w30 and that's what I would put in. The Fram filter is fiber end caps but has shown itself to be a reliable low cost filter. The Motorcraft is a better filter and your ultimate choice depends on how long your OCI usually is.

So what's your usual interval?
 
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Exhaust manifold leak. Check the studs. My 2002 F150 had this issue. Minor annoyance, could be expensive fix if the studs break in the cyl head during repair.
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
1st of all Kris,
welcome2.gif



You said:
Originally Posted By: Twisted1
I don't rev my engine past 4-5K so I'm hoping there is no damage? I threw MMO in there to help loosen up any crud or sludge (assuming there was any) just as a preventative maintenance.


and:
Originally Posted By: Twisted1

- 142,563 miles (current)
- Last oil change done - 138,900


Guessing from those two you are using M1 at only a 4000 mile OCI. If you've been doing this all along:
1) There IS no crud or sludge and
2) You most definitely do NOT need the MMO.
(also true for at least 7500 mi with M1)


Originally Posted By: Twisted1

From what everyone is saying so far, it seems that MMO may have brought my oil down a weight?


It may have. Getting that (*^&#$@ out of there ASAP would be my plan.

The 4.6 was originally factory specified for a 5w30 and that's what I would put in. The Fram filter is fiber end caps but has shown itself to be a reliable low cost filter. The Motorcraft is a better filter and your ultimate choice depends on how long your OCI usually is.

So what's your usual interval?





Thank you for the warm welcome!

I keep my intervals in between 4K-6K miles (Full Syn)
 
I had a Sidekick that had a ticking sound.Turned out the PO had cross threaded a sparkplug.I found out when the plug blew out.

Didn't the 4.6 have a problem with shallow threads some years?And plugs blowing out.Grasp a plug wire in the area and see if you feel the vibration thru the wire.Or place a fingertip on the engine near each cylinder in the suspected area.

good luck
 
I have COP and I didn't feel any vibration or spark feedback. I think the plug blowouts were also the Windsor blocks (99 to early 01) because owners weren't torquing them down correctly to the factory specified 11ft lbs. I am one of those owners that buys a Chilton Manual the same day I purchase a used vehicle. I love to keep the car to factory specifications less aftermarket parts call for different instances.
 
Check the spark plugs and exhaust manifold studs. Both are a known issue and can cause a ticking noise.

I agree that adding MMO to a 5w-20 is not ideal. Consider it a flush and replace with 5 or 10w-30 and a Motorcraft filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Twisted1
Mobil 1 5W-20 w/MMO (5qts Oil 1qt MMO)


That's all I had to read right there: Mobil 1 0W-20 with 1 quart of MMO.

The 0W-20 was bad enough by itself and then you had to thin it even more with MMO.

Actually, 0W-20 and MMO are probably about the same viscosity anyway.
 
previous experience with 4.6 modular motors 01,02 , and 03 had issues with the tensioners , they sound like a sewing machine . best bet is to pull the front covers off of the motor to inspect , more then likely you will find them worn through and if you do a lab on your oil you will find metal and plastic in your oil if the tensioners are worn

we had this issues in a lot of squad cars from that era in our villages fleet .
 
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