Looking for a HM additive (1/2 qt)

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Originally Posted By: Dale_Knight
Originally Posted By: badtlc
I just don't want the RMS leak coming back.


What product was used to stop the main seal leak ?


Auto-RX.

I did not use MMO after the 2nd application.
 
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No idea why some of you are posting about Marvel and AutoRex to this thread. The worst thing to do with a high mileage block is to use a drive around oil scourer, as it can easily cause one of two serios problems, as follows:
1/ An increase in the leak rate from a gasket or oil seals (Google "False oil seal effect")
2/ If the block is an oil sludge moster (Black death victim), using a solvent will shift the sludge and varnish into the oil stream, where is can block the oil filter, oil pump intake filter or turbo feed line. That's not an issue if the engine oil in use contains enough Moly AND the RPM is kept to the OEM hot idle figure, BUT if you are driving around and booting it, then all bets and sales Doc's promises are off.
An idle only oil flush additive, like the one Amsoil make, is far safer.
3/ It's a waste of time and money.

PS: Liqui Moly and Castrol also make idle use only engine oil flush additives. The time at hot idle does vary, so I would read the instructions first AND keep an eye on the oil pressure warning light. If it starts to flicker, switch off, drain the oil, drop the sump pan and clean the oil pump intake filter.
 
Originally Posted By: John_Conrad
Looking at pqia analysis(for a 5w-30), there really doesn't appear to be anything that would throw the formulation off, but take that with a grain of salt and hope that mola(and others) can add to this as he studied the rislone engine treatment.

http://www.pqiadata.org/TropArtic5W30.html


I consider the Rislone engine treatment as a temporary cleaner only.

By temporary, I mean put it in and run it for around 100 miles and then change the oil.

As for any cleaner ot flush, long term use can upset the chemical balance in the host oil and thin the oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: John_Conrad
Looking at pqia analysis(for a 5w-30), there really doesn't appear to be anything that would throw the formulation off, but take that with a grain of salt and hope that mola(and others) can add to this as he studied the rislone engine treatment.

http://www.pqiadata.org/TropArtic5W30.html


I consider the Rislone engine treatment as a temporary cleaner only.
By temporary, I mean put it in and run it for around 100 miles and then change the oil.
As for any cleaner ot flush, long term use can upset the chemical balance in the host oil and thin the oil.


Perfect post!
 
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Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
No idea why some of you are posting about Marvel and AutoRex to this thread. The worst thing to do with a high mileage block is to use a drive around oil scourer, as it can easily cause one of two serios problems, as follows:
1/ An increase in the leak rate from a gasket or oil seals (Google "False oil seal effect")
2/ If the block is an oil sludge moster (Black death victim), using a solvent will shift the sludge and varnish into the oil stream, where is can block the oil filter, oil pump intake filter or turbo feed line. That's not an issue if the engine oil in use contains enough Moly AND the RPM is kept to the OEM hot idle figure, BUT if you are driving around and booting it, then all bets and sales Doc's promises are off.
An idle only oil flush additive, like the one Amsoil make, is far safer.
3/ It's a waste of time and money.

PS: Liqui Moly and Castrol also make idle use only engine oil flush additives. The time at hot idle does vary, so I would read the instructions first AND keep an eye on the oil pressure warning light. If it starts to flicker, switch off, drain the oil, drop the sump pan and clean the oil pump intake filter.


You can take this subject to another thread but Auto-RX fixed my RMS leak and also a RMS leak in a coworkers CRV. I didn't expect it to work for me since I had always used good oil and changed it every 5k when using blend/conventional and 7.5k when using synthetic. I expected I had a torn RMS that needed replaced but it didn't hurt to try. Low and behold the marketing does match the performance.

I'm not interested in flushes. Thanks though.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
any recommendations? Gumout has one but I think it has swellers. I'd like to find one that just cleans and conditions but does not swell and preferably working off of esters.

I will be adding it to 5W30 havoline.


If you really need an HM additive because of worn oil seals that are too expensive to repair or you have worn bearings, then why not use a high mileage oil.
Valvoline Maxlife 10w40 is not expensive, but if you don't have a high oil consumption and are just trying to figure out how protect the bearings and rings, then I would try adding Liqui Moly Ceratec, which contains both Moly (Mo) and Boron Nitride. The latter is in the form of a ceramic particle suspension.

The best way to safely clean a block is to use an idle use only flush additive just before an oil filter change, BUT don't do that if you have any oil leaks, just use a real good cleaner oil AND a few short OCI's. Shell Ultra 0w40 or Mobil 1 0w40 are both ace cleaners.

The valve cover off picture looks normal for an engine run on conventional base stock oils.
 
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Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK


If you really need an HM additive because of worn oil seals that are too expensive to repair or you have worn bearings, then why not use a high mileage oil.


I don't need it. I want to clean up an old engine with free oil. I'm not buying HM oil.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK


If you really need an HM additive because of worn oil seals that are too expensive to repair or you have worn bearings, then why not use a high mileage oil.


I don't need it. I want to clean up an old engine with free oil. I'm not buying HM oil.


OK, so you don't want to use an HM, or do an idle flush, but still want to clean an engine block up.
Firstly I would drop the sump and clean it and the all important oil pump intake screen.
That might not be easy with some modern engines, but is often very simple with older ones. Just depends on cross beams and exhaust downpipe locations.

Simply changing the oil more often than normal will help clean up a block. IF you don't have a turbo then oil scourer additives like MMO do work, BUT if the block is a real sludge monster it can be risky if you do not clear the sump and oil pump intake screen.
Liqui Moly in their PDS for their oil scourer additive also say that you should avoid high RPM for the few hundred km the scourer is in use.

http://www.liqui-moly.lt/uploads/Products/product_62/18bbce1c625e8e5ba34e94c1b7afd928.pdf
 
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Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK


Simply changing the oil more often than normal will help clean up a block.


No. It won't. There is no evidence to support that claim.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK


Simply changing the oil more often than normal will help clean up a block.


No. It won't. There is no evidence to support that claim.


thumbsup2.gif
I say maybe to that. Changing it more often might keep a clean engine clean. Cleaning a dirty engine, maybe.
 
Buy Maxlife life oil... Adding a supplement is fine but not any different then using a good quality HM oil. Even try PYB HM, its a really good oil that cleans well.
 
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Buy Maxlife life oil... Adding a supplement is fine but not any different then using a good quality HM oil. Even try PYB HM, its a really good oil that cleans well.


Please read the OP. I'm not looking to buy oil. I have free oil I'm trying to use up but was looking for something to boost the additive package a bit that was oriented towards higher mileage without swellers.

I am not soliciting advice for a HM oil.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
any recommendations? Gumout has one but I think it has swellers. I'd like to find one that just cleans and conditions but does not swell and preferably working off of esters.

I will be adding it to 5W30 havoline.


The ester based additive I use in all of our gas/diesel engine crankcase is Archoil AR9100. I think I started with a quart and now ready to order the third gallon. Most of our stuff is old. The cost of about $2 per quart makes it a personal choice. I like the way it cleans up a crankcase over time. I do not see an increase in MPG. I still change autos at 5K miles but it states it doubles the OCI capacity. If it stops dry start ups for our engines that stay off most of the time that makes me happy.

In a real world using good oil I am not sure additives have any functional value. Around the farm we have equipment that would be scrapped out if we lost the engine if we wanted to be practical so I find the cost of AR9100 just some protection of mind.
smile.gif


http://www.archoil.com/ar9100-nanoborate-friction-modifier/
 
What may work for you is the GM EOS ( engine oil supplement). It has zinc, calcium and moly in it. It's main use is for engine break-in or valve train noise. Check out your nearest GM dealer to see if they have it.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK


Simply changing the oil more often than normal will help clean up a block.


No. It won't. There is no evidence to support that claim.


thumbsup2.gif
I say maybe to that. Changing it more often might keep a clean engine clean. Cleaning a dirty engine, maybe.


It will sure will clean up a dirty block, BUT it helps to use an oil that cleans well. Shell Ultra and Mobil 1 will both do a good job in that respect, as will some of the HM oils. Frequent oil changes will shift sludge fairly easily, but if an engine has a lot of top end varnish then it does help if you can use an idle only oil flush additive just before an OCI. Unfortunately they can make existing leaks worse for a while, due to the false oil seal effect.
I've cleaned up quite a number of dirty blocks over the years and although dropping the pan is a real good idea in a bad case, short OCI's with a good cleaner oil do work very well if using a flush additive is problematic.
 
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