Have been using GC or M1 15W50 in my mowers for years but I don't see the temp chart in my Toro TimeMaster's manual. It has a B&S 190cc engine and it looks like they only want the 30W, can I get away with one of my many multi weights syns in the the hot weather? Is there a synthetic 30W that is locally available, I can't find one, if not what is the best 30W to use?
Toro TimeMaster Push Mower 30W Only??
- Thread starter Quadrasteer
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0w-30
5w-30
10w-30
SAE30
5w-40
10w-40
15w-40
Use whatever's in your garage. Change it annually. It'll be fine.
Edit: My push mower has the same engine. With ~300 hours on it now, it's running just fine on mostly Rotella T6.
5w-30
10w-30
SAE30
5w-40
10w-40
15w-40
Use whatever's in your garage. Change it annually. It'll be fine.
Edit: My push mower has the same engine. With ~300 hours on it now, it's running just fine on mostly Rotella T6.
My briggs is 25 years old and runs on mostly automotive leftovers and gets changed every 2 seasons . I don't think it sees more than 5 hours a year.
Now the Snowblower and generator are MORE pickey. I run 10w30 ValvolineVSP VR works well. with a tiny bit-O moly powder.
Snow blower Im still trying to figure out. Doesn't like 10w30 Rotella T5, Seems to like pennzoil bronze bottle HM 5w30. Was just ho-hum on Defy.
Now the Snowblower and generator are MORE pickey. I run 10w30 ValvolineVSP VR works well. with a tiny bit-O moly powder.
Snow blower Im still trying to figure out. Doesn't like 10w30 Rotella T5, Seems to like pennzoil bronze bottle HM 5w30. Was just ho-hum on Defy.
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Did you mean 15W-50 or 15W-40? I'd use any reasonable quality 10W-30 PCMO or HDEO, or any HDEO 15W-40, whatever is easiest for you to get.
Another excellent choice is Amsoil Formula 4-stroke.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo.../?code=ASEQT-EA
AFAIR it contains no VII's. It's an SAE 30 weight that qualifies as a 10W-30. It's got an insanely low NOACK of 4.0 so should consume nothing unless your engine's worn.
Another excellent choice is Amsoil Formula 4-stroke.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo.../?code=ASEQT-EA
AFAIR it contains no VII's. It's an SAE 30 weight that qualifies as a 10W-30. It's got an insanely low NOACK of 4.0 so should consume nothing unless your engine's worn.
It's M1 15W-50, got a lot on clearance. Ran it in my 26HP Kohler for many years/hours. Older posts seem to say that ANY multi weights break down much faster than the 30, usually they offer a temp use chart. Didn't want to have to go out and buy oil when I have so much already, thanks.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1857084
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1857084
Multi-weights will break down faster if they have VII's so the less the better. That's why I mentioned Amsoil's Formula 4-stroke. Amsoil also has a 10W-30 diesel oil that contains no VII's.
If you've got a big stash of M1 15W-50 I'd go ahead and use it. It's M1 and synthetic, so way better than straight 30 wt dino oil.
If you've got a big stash of M1 15W-50 I'd go ahead and use it. It's M1 and synthetic, so way better than straight 30 wt dino oil.
I'd use Rotella T6 5w40 or 15w40.
Went to Tractor Supply, the B&S 5-30 Syn says good for ALL air cooled 4 stroke engines. Just wondering why Toro doesn't recommend anything but the 30 in the owners manual.
B&S recommendations are #1.is 5w30 synthetic followed by 10w30 & 30.
Originally Posted By: Quadrasteer
It's M1 15W-50, got a lot on clearance. Ran it in my 26HP Kohler for many years/hours. Older posts seem to say that ANY multi weights break down much faster than the 30, usually they offer a temp use chart. Didn't want to have to go out and buy oil when I have so much already, thanks.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1857084
If that is what you have. You would have no problem using it. As vitez said, way better than Dino SAE 30 and for that matter most synthetic oils are. I say, use it up.
It's M1 15W-50, got a lot on clearance. Ran it in my 26HP Kohler for many years/hours. Older posts seem to say that ANY multi weights break down much faster than the 30, usually they offer a temp use chart. Didn't want to have to go out and buy oil when I have so much already, thanks.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1857084
If that is what you have. You would have no problem using it. As vitez said, way better than Dino SAE 30 and for that matter most synthetic oils are. I say, use it up.
I run 15w40 HDEO in my Briggs 190cc. It's got a little spin-on filter even.
Like others have said, I too have been using 15w40 in place of SAE30 or 10w30 for small air cooled engines since the early 2000s.
Like others have said, I too have been using 15w40 in place of SAE30 or 10w30 for small air cooled engines since the early 2000s.
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John Deere recommends 10W30, but Kawasaki recommends a sliding scale from 10W40 to 20W50 and others. The engine manufacturer and the equipment manufacturers are not on the same pages sometimes.
Briggs recommends synthetic 5W30, followed by SAE30, or conventional 10W30 which will consume a bit more oil over 80 degrees.
So basically, any synthetic 5W30/10W30 will be fine. Or SAE30. 15W40 works great as well.
You are not stuck using just SAE30.
Briggs recommends synthetic 5W30, followed by SAE30, or conventional 10W30 which will consume a bit more oil over 80 degrees.
So basically, any synthetic 5W30/10W30 will be fine. Or SAE30. 15W40 works great as well.
You are not stuck using just SAE30.
All my ope's get what is open and close/on hand.
Thousands of hours and not one oil failure. That includes 5w-20/30 in summer.
the main thing is clean oil at the full level.
Harvey
Thousands of hours and not one oil failure. That includes 5w-20/30 in summer.
the main thing is clean oil at the full level.
Harvey
Just noticed that Toro specs SAE30 for my self-propelled mower, when I stopped at the hardware to grab oil they had two different 10W30s and I just randomly picked one. Then I remembered that I bought a quart of M1 10W30 by accident a few years ago and never bothered to return it...I'm sure any one of them would be fine.
The oil from last season (oops, forgot to drain it in the fall) looked pretty darned clean, maybe I'll just put the decision off until next year.
The oil from last season (oops, forgot to drain it in the fall) looked pretty darned clean, maybe I'll just put the decision off until next year.
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