Transmission fluid change gone wrong!! Help

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Yes I hooked up the sensor and made sure the o ring is in place. I read the manual and it states that the AT light is from an "electrical problem" in the transmission. I disconnected the battery and hooked it back up and it's still messed up it thumps from park to reverse.
 
I've owned 3 Mazda 3's and now a Mazda 6 I've had since new. I've always used the Mazda Type M5 fluid. Maybe you should try Mazda fluid if your doing another drain and fill. The fluid type should be stamped right on the dipstick.
 
Since you dropped the pan (I generally try to avoid this), I would pay close attention to the o-ring on the inlet tube. Make sure the old o-ring is not stuck in the transmission (I've had this happen before) and make sure you use the correct filter. If in doubt, get a filter from the dealer.
 
If the check engine light came on as soon (immediately?) as you started it, then I really doubt it's a fluid/filter issue. No, I think you've managed to disturb some wiring/sensor(s). Look over EVERYTHING you've touch or even been near. If you don't see anything get it scanned for any codes. Not by a parts store either... Go to the dealer or an indy with advanced code reading equipment.
 
On many vehicles the valve body is near the fluid fill hole. Just adding fluid can cause something to get lodged where it shouldnt be.
 
Originally Posted By: stower17
On many vehicles the valve body is near the fluid fill hole. Just adding fluid can cause something to get lodged where it shouldnt be.


I didn't think of this, but upon the first fill I added fluid quickly and it built up in the funnel and burped it's way out. I wonder if that was enough pressure to force detritus somewhere it shouldn't be.

I called and spoke with 3 local mechanics. All agreed that it is odd for a flush fill to cause an issue like this. One said only use Mazda fluid(that may be ignorance speaking) the other 2 said that they are just as surprised and said Mobil 1 and castrol imv should work fine on this vehicle.


My game plan tonight is to drain fill again and drop the pan. I will inspect everything very well while underneath to make sure I didn't miss a gasket or connection (loose wire underneath somehow?)
 
A cheap obdii dongle and forscan can read your exact code.

Worth getting not just for this issue.
 
Originally Posted By: CharlieBauer
A cheap obdii dongle and forscan can read your exact code.

Worth getting not just for this issue.


Autozone does it for free as well if you're not interested in the purchase.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
If the check engine light came on as soon (immediately?) as you started it, then I really doubt it's a fluid/filter issue. No, I think you've managed to disturb some wiring/sensor(s). Look over EVERYTHING you've touch or even been near. If you don't see anything get it scanned for any codes. Not by a parts store either... Go to the dealer or an indy with advanced code reading equipment.


I agree with this. New fluid or even the wrong fluid definitely would not cause such an immediate reaction with both AT and CEL lit up. Scanning the codes should be the top priority.


On my 06 Mazda 3 I successfully used Castrol import MV ATF and Petro Canada MV ATF. I never dropped the pan though, I only did drain and fills or cooler line exchanges. The tranny always shifted the same each time I changed the ATF.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
If the check engine light came on as soon (immediately?) as you started it, then I really doubt it's a fluid/filter issue. No, I think you've managed to disturb some wiring/sensor(s). Look over EVERYTHING you've touch or even been near. If you don't see anything get it scanned for any codes. Not by a parts store either... Go to the dealer or an indy with advanced code reading equipment.

^This^
 
This is not a fluid issue - this is a mechanical issue - re check your gaskets and seals - sounds like tons of air is getting in.

Grab an OBD2 code scanner - check for codes - - this will answer your questions indefinitely.

Fluid incompatibility issues take much longer than this to show.
Good luck
 
Originally Posted By: nicholas
Grab an OBD2 code scanner - check for codes - - this will answer your questions indefinitely.

Agreed. No point beating around the bush second guessing when a CEL comes into play and the information you need can be literally at your fingetips.
 
It doesn't sound fluid related, but I believe mazda 3 atf is Mazda type M5 (used to be called Mazda M-V, which is NOT Mercon V or equivalent) and I don't think there are many that are M5 rated. Some were listed as Mazda M-V rated early on but then later that Mazda spec was not listed.

I used Mazda M5 and never had any trouble. My first change around 50k the fluid was almost black but actually tested fine. Color doesn't mean anything, unless the ATF also smells burnt (you'd know, burnt ATF smells bad). I've since changed again around 80k. Transmission shifts as it did right off the lot at 21 miles.

I hope you find out what happened, hopefully a gasket or ring didn't get loose in there.
 
I think OP has abandoned us. Or he's mourning the loss of his transmission. Or both. I don't know why, but I'm still curious...
 
FYI - His last post was May of last year, and his last post before this particular topic was August of the year before that.

He might be back, but I wouldn't hold your breath.
 
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