PD CAMSHAFT Break-in
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More important than the oil is the break in process.
From my days of rebuilding engines, cam shafts required an immediate 2,000'- 2,500 RPM run in for 20 minutes or the lifters wouldn't mate well to the lobes and you could flat spot the cam. ( As an aside, would pre-lube the engine with a big drill and a distrubotr drive shaft so that the 2,000 RPM after start wouldn't be dry, but that's not really possible with your engine...)
I don't know if any of that's true on your car, but be certain of the correct procedure by referencing factory (or cam manufacturer) information before the first start
From my days of rebuilding engines, cam shafts required an immediate 2,000'- 2,500 RPM run in for 20 minutes or the lifters wouldn't mate well to the lobes and you could flat spot the cam. ( As an aside, would pre-lube the engine with a big drill and a distrubotr drive shaft so that the 2,000 RPM after start wouldn't be dry, but that's not really possible with your engine...)
I don't know if any of that's true on your car, but be certain of the correct procedure by referencing factory (or cam manufacturer) information before the first start
Agree with Astro.
And usually there's some type of moly paste on them which IMO is absolutely necessary.
Something out of the box is that used oil contains a lot of partially reacted ZDDP and Mo compounds (the MoDTC actually breaks down to MoS2 in the tribofilm), and used oil reacts and forms a tribofilm a lot quicker than new oil does.
(The new oil has to got through heat and friction cycles to get the reaction products to occur).
Maybe it's better to grease up your cam with a proprietary cam additive, change the cam, run it for the 20-30mins at 2500 RPM, and THEN change the oil.
http://web.ornl.gov/~webworks/cppr/y2005/pres/117987.pdf
And usually there's some type of moly paste on them which IMO is absolutely necessary.
Something out of the box is that used oil contains a lot of partially reacted ZDDP and Mo compounds (the MoDTC actually breaks down to MoS2 in the tribofilm), and used oil reacts and forms a tribofilm a lot quicker than new oil does.
(The new oil has to got through heat and friction cycles to get the reaction products to occur).
Maybe it's better to grease up your cam with a proprietary cam additive, change the cam, run it for the 20-30mins at 2500 RPM, and THEN change the oil.
http://web.ornl.gov/~webworks/cppr/y2005/pres/117987.pdf
Joe Gibbs break in oil:
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/products/engine-break-in-and-assembly-oilshtml
Do it right the first time, use the assembly paste, pre-fill the filter if you can, and follow the break in instructions for the cam/engine. Some will say change the oil right away. On my last engine the builder said to change the filter after break in and run the oil to 500 miles.
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/products/engine-break-in-and-assembly-oilshtml
Do it right the first time, use the assembly paste, pre-fill the filter if you can, and follow the break in instructions for the cam/engine. Some will say change the oil right away. On my last engine the builder said to change the filter after break in and run the oil to 500 miles.
Don't forget to slather it with assembly lube. I recommend Sealed Power #55-400.
Originally Posted By: Astro14
More important than the oil is the break in process.
From my days of rebuilding engines, cam shafts required an immediate 2,000'- 2,500 RPM run in for 20 minutes or the lifters wouldn't mate well to the lobes and you could flat spot the cam. ( As an aside, would pre-lube the engine with a big drill and a distrubotr drive shaft so that the 2,000 RPM after start wouldn't be dry, but that's not really possible with your engine...)
I don't know if any of that's true on your car, but be certain of the correct procedure by referencing factory (or cam manufacturer) information before the first start
Spot on advice especially for new cams with flat tappets. I don't know if the same applies to roller lifters, but i would research it.
More important than the oil is the break in process.
From my days of rebuilding engines, cam shafts required an immediate 2,000'- 2,500 RPM run in for 20 minutes or the lifters wouldn't mate well to the lobes and you could flat spot the cam. ( As an aside, would pre-lube the engine with a big drill and a distrubotr drive shaft so that the 2,000 RPM after start wouldn't be dry, but that's not really possible with your engine...)
I don't know if any of that's true on your car, but be certain of the correct procedure by referencing factory (or cam manufacturer) information before the first start
Spot on advice especially for new cams with flat tappets. I don't know if the same applies to roller lifters, but i would research it.
I'm just installing a set of custom camshafts on my Grand Marquis. It's no diesel engine, but for the first 20-25 minutes of operation, I'm going to be using API SL/CG-4 rated Fuchs Titan Formel 15W-40 with 4 oz. of Howards Cams Max ZPM break-in lube that came with it. Adding another bottle to the fill after the initial 2,500 rpm run.
The cams themselves are lubed up with Redline Assembly Lube prior to installation.
The cams themselves are lubed up with Redline Assembly Lube prior to installation.
Yes this is the one recommended by Frank Irving who makes one of the top quality re-profiled/improved PD cams (better than the OEM from VW dealers in my view). Contact him for further information on the proper break-in procedure:
Frank's VW TDI's, LLC
1007 Olive St.
Lockwood, MO 65682
417-232-4634
[email protected]
Frank's VW TDI's, LLC
Originally Posted By: Sunnyinhollister
Joe Gibbs break in oil:
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/products/engine-break-in-and-assembly-oilshtml
Do it right the first time, use the assembly paste, pre-fill the filter if you can, and follow the break in instructions for the cam/engine. Some will say change the oil right away. On my last engine the builder said to change the filter after break in and run the oil to 500 miles.
Frank's VW TDI's, LLC
1007 Olive St.
Lockwood, MO 65682
417-232-4634
[email protected]
Frank's VW TDI's, LLC
Originally Posted By: Sunnyinhollister
Joe Gibbs break in oil:
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/products/engine-break-in-and-assembly-oilshtml
Do it right the first time, use the assembly paste, pre-fill the filter if you can, and follow the break in instructions for the cam/engine. Some will say change the oil right away. On my last engine the builder said to change the filter after break in and run the oil to 500 miles.
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