I’ve email the firm but haven’t heard back. I assume that when you’re putting it in a new engine, you should wait till at least 5000 miles? Nothing on the directions about this.
Thanks!
Thanks!
For those of you who use Liqui Moly Cera Tec
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Originally Posted By: KingCake
Just the burn your money it will do the same amount of good for your engine.
Thanks for the advice. I take it you must be a liqui Moly user since I asked for their advice.
Just the burn your money it will do the same amount of good for your engine.
Thanks for the advice. I take it you must be a liqui Moly user since I asked for their advice.
Break in the vehicle. Seat the rings, etc.
I asked this question to the Export Manager about two years ago. His answer was, if the new engine is in a new vehicle, you can use it straight away. If you have rebuilt the engine, I personally would wait 1,000 miles (1,600 km) before using additives.
I would second the no additive for the first few thousand miles post. There must be friction during the break-in process. I am a licensed aircraft and power plant mechanic, among other things. A rebuilt airplane engine has about 25 hours, at the most, to break in. The procedure used for years was to use non-detergent oil for the first 25 hours or so. In addition, the best break-in procedure that I have had success with was prescribed by Chrome Plate Inc., a noted engine rebuilder of great engines. It was as follows:
*Start the newly rebuilt engine and only run it on the ground to allow a visual inspection for leaks and insure it is ready to be flown.
*When ready to test fly, start the engine and, minimizing taxi time, take off ASAP at full power.
*Climb to a safe altitude remaining low as prudent to keep air density as high as possible and reduce power to 75% for 30 minutes.
*Then "WHIP" the engine with 5 minutes at full power, followed by 5 minutes at 75% power. *Repeat 3 whippings and land.
When I did the above break-in procedure on my rebuilt engines, the temperatures dropped during the whippings. The oil then stayed clean and the engine was broken in.
The secret here is the top ring seal depends on high pressure to push it hard against the cylinder wall and, per Chrome Plate Inc., wear in the rings and bores by making tiny sparks! This must occur before the varnish sets in.
One of the engines I was able to track for over a thousand hours never used oil and would beat like type airplanes in full throttle friendly competition. BTW, an aircraft engine must be able to operate in a test cell at 100% power and, when torn down and measured, be within manufacturing tolerances.
*Start the newly rebuilt engine and only run it on the ground to allow a visual inspection for leaks and insure it is ready to be flown.
*When ready to test fly, start the engine and, minimizing taxi time, take off ASAP at full power.
*Climb to a safe altitude remaining low as prudent to keep air density as high as possible and reduce power to 75% for 30 minutes.
*Then "WHIP" the engine with 5 minutes at full power, followed by 5 minutes at 75% power. *Repeat 3 whippings and land.
When I did the above break-in procedure on my rebuilt engines, the temperatures dropped during the whippings. The oil then stayed clean and the engine was broken in.
The secret here is the top ring seal depends on high pressure to push it hard against the cylinder wall and, per Chrome Plate Inc., wear in the rings and bores by making tiny sparks! This must occur before the varnish sets in.
One of the engines I was able to track for over a thousand hours never used oil and would beat like type airplanes in full throttle friendly competition. BTW, an aircraft engine must be able to operate in a test cell at 100% power and, when torn down and measured, be within manufacturing tolerances.
An extra tidbit.
Diesel engines are a robust lot. To get them into service ASAP the industry sells and uses a break-in powder that is introduced into the combustion chamber via the intake!!, (like maybe BON AMI).
WOW
Diesel engines are a robust lot. To get them into service ASAP the industry sells and uses a break-in powder that is introduced into the combustion chamber via the intake!!, (like maybe BON AMI).
WOW
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Originally Posted By: plane_car_nut_80
An extra tidbit.
Diesel engines are a robust lot. To get them into service ASAP the industry sells and uses a break-in powder that is introduced into the combustion chamber via the intake!!, (like maybe BON AMI).
WOW
I asked a buddy of mine who works at Cummins about this...he asked around there and was told that this was NOT recommended and could easily void a warranty.
An extra tidbit.
Diesel engines are a robust lot. To get them into service ASAP the industry sells and uses a break-in powder that is introduced into the combustion chamber via the intake!!, (like maybe BON AMI).
WOW
I asked a buddy of mine who works at Cummins about this...he asked around there and was told that this was NOT recommended and could easily void a warranty.
PCN-80 I don't doubt your break-in experiences, but I've had equally good luck --on the ground-- breaking in new engines at no more than brief (like 3 to 4 seconds) ventures to 60% of max rpm for the first 700 miles or so. Last car I broke in was completed in 3 days and only 8 'starts'
Conclusion-? there is no bad way to break in a new production engine
Steve
Conclusion-? there is no bad way to break in a new production engine
Steve
Quality of the surface or roughness would be better with ceratec.
use an oil filter with the best filtration abilities. Amsoil; royal purple; fram ultra.
first oil change at max few hundred km. on the second change use ceratec. 50K km - effect are marketing thing. it should always present in the oil, without, the effect diminished completely after the second oil change. even half dose - better then nothing.
use an oil filter with the best filtration abilities. Amsoil; royal purple; fram ultra.
first oil change at max few hundred km. on the second change use ceratec. 50K km - effect are marketing thing. it should always present in the oil, without, the effect diminished completely after the second oil change. even half dose - better then nothing.
Originally Posted By: plane_car_nut_80
...I am a licensed aircraft and power plant mechanic, among other things. A rebuilt airplane engine has about 25 hours, at the most, to break in. The procedure used for years was to use non-detergent oil for the first 25 hours or so ....
I don't meant to be picky, but people will read this thread. Aircraft piston engine oils don't use detergents, for the ash content, like Ca, Bo, Mg, Na. They leave too much residoes in an oil thirsty engine as aero reciprocating engines are ... Maybe you meant dispersant (ashless dispersant oils). Break in were made with non Ashless Dispersant oils. Isn't it?
...I am a licensed aircraft and power plant mechanic, among other things. A rebuilt airplane engine has about 25 hours, at the most, to break in. The procedure used for years was to use non-detergent oil for the first 25 hours or so ....
I don't meant to be picky, but people will read this thread. Aircraft piston engine oils don't use detergents, for the ash content, like Ca, Bo, Mg, Na. They leave too much residoes in an oil thirsty engine as aero reciprocating engines are ... Maybe you meant dispersant (ashless dispersant oils). Break in were made with non Ashless Dispersant oils. Isn't it?
MolaKule
Staff member
Originally Posted By: powayroger
I’ve email the firm but haven’t heard back. I assume that when you’re putting it in a new engine, you should wait till at least 5000 miles? Nothing on the directions about this.
Thanks!
LQMC contains a boost of friction modifiers, something you do not want during the run-in period.
Follow the engine manf. recommendations for the run-in period using the recommended oil.
I’ve email the firm but haven’t heard back. I assume that when you’re putting it in a new engine, you should wait till at least 5000 miles? Nothing on the directions about this.
Thanks!
LQMC contains a boost of friction modifiers, something you do not want during the run-in period.
Follow the engine manf. recommendations for the run-in period using the recommended oil.
Originally Posted By: Nebroch
I wouldn't use these additives in a new engine even after break-in period, there's simply no upside. After 100 000 miles maybe, as there's some wear..
I agree it does not make sense to use Ceratec during either the initial or extended break in period, although it's difficult to put a figure on that distance. Most diesel engines seem to need at least 50K km before they are fully run in, although the figure for a petrol engine is rather less.
Using an oil additive that was not designed for breaking in an engine might not produce any real benefit and I doubt if Liqui Moly have ever tested Ceratec for such use.
If you do use Ceratec, I would point out that part of the LM info about it is a bit misleading, as they say it's good for 50K km, BUT that is only if you don't change the oil. It needs to be used every oil change to be effective. I use a full can in my petrol town car because the cam phaser bearing is rather worn, but only half a can in my 1.9 TDI as the block is still in good condition.
I wouldn't use these additives in a new engine even after break-in period, there's simply no upside. After 100 000 miles maybe, as there's some wear..
I agree it does not make sense to use Ceratec during either the initial or extended break in period, although it's difficult to put a figure on that distance. Most diesel engines seem to need at least 50K km before they are fully run in, although the figure for a petrol engine is rather less.
Using an oil additive that was not designed for breaking in an engine might not produce any real benefit and I doubt if Liqui Moly have ever tested Ceratec for such use.
If you do use Ceratec, I would point out that part of the LM info about it is a bit misleading, as they say it's good for 50K km, BUT that is only if you don't change the oil. It needs to be used every oil change to be effective. I use a full can in my petrol town car because the cam phaser bearing is rather worn, but only half a can in my 1.9 TDI as the block is still in good condition.
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