My check engine light come on the other day for the mass air flow sensor. No driveability issues. I went to Autozone and they had a new Duralast one for 90 bucks. I slapped it on in the parking lot and tried to leave. The engine would start and shut right off. I took it back in and got another one. That one seemed fine until I got to the mountain. When It downshifted into 3rd, the torque converter acted like It couldnt make up its mind if it wanted to lock or unlock. So It surged all the way up the mountain. There is a TSB from GM about that exact issue being linked to the MAF sensor. I again took it back and told them my car didnt like duralast lol. I went down the street to Advance Auto Parts and tried the Cardone Reman, then the Spectra Premium. Both would cause the torque converter to act confused on a hill in 3rd. The spectra premium was the worst. It would idle rough, the shifts were too soft, and it confused the torque converter lock up. The original one runs like a top, other than the CEL and sucky gas mileage. Autozone has a Delphi for 100 bucks. Do you think the Delphi will work right? Its an OE part. I also got a coupon in the mail yesterday for Autozone 20% off one item. What do you guys think? Thanks in advance!
Difference in MAF Sensor Brands
- Thread starter ChevyGuy3100
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Some cars have to relearn when a new part is installed. I'm looking to buy the scanner that is capable of this. Did you remove the battery cable to clear it out?
Just curious, what year/make/model is the MAF sensor for?
I ask because sometimes Rock Auto gives one a good idea of popular choices.
I ask because sometimes Rock Auto gives one a good idea of popular choices.
I did reset the ECM each time I replaced it. I drove around plenty of miles and start/stops on each one to give It time to relearn. 1999 Chevy Malibu. 3100 V6
Buy the OEM one. Lost count of how many times cars have come into my work and we throw out new aftermarket parts, put on OEM, and the car runs like new again.
The OEM MAF sensor for my Buick is Hitachi. I got one at Amazon for the same price as a fake Duralast.
Originally Posted By: ChevyGuy3100
....Do you think the Delphi will work right? Its an OE part.....
It's a heart/popular choice on Rock Auto. And not even the most expensive. I'd look at it closely.
....Do you think the Delphi will work right? Its an OE part.....
It's a heart/popular choice on Rock Auto. And not even the most expensive. I'd look at it closely.
what vehicle? Sometime oem is the best with engine controls..All the years i had the shop i had issues with most anything cardone. Shop around online for an oem maf sensor you can find great prices sometimes online.
Just checked RockA and they have the Delphi unit for $85 plus shipping. So autozone sounds like a good deal. Plus you can return it easily if any issues.
Originally Posted By: mclasser
Just buy the OE part and call it a day. A lot of aftermarket sensors are junk.
MAKE SURE IT IS OE, not "OE fit" or "improved OEM design", "OEM quality" or other politician phrases designed to deceive buyers.
Just buy the OE part and call it a day. A lot of aftermarket sensors are junk.
MAKE SURE IT IS OE, not "OE fit" or "improved OEM design", "OEM quality" or other politician phrases designed to deceive buyers.
Yeah the 3100 needs an oem part. Surprised you got the code with no issues, usually there's lots of symptoms before the code like long cranking times
Here's the info on the Delphi MAF at RA.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1830220&cc=1367074&jsn=571
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1830220&cc=1367074&jsn=571
It says "Actual OE Part". I just got off the phone with Autozone and they said I had to pay for it before they could even order it. I live close to 30 miles away for Autozone, or any civilization for that matter, so Im not running all the way over there tonight to order it. I will try to go earlier tomorrow morning to order it. He said it will be Tuesday before they get it. And come to think of it, it does have an intermittent long crank time sometimes. Especially after a heat soak.
I'll tell you something, my sister's Cruze threw a CEL. I cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body. Decided to put a new MAP sensor on for good measure. This was an OEM ACDelco GM part (manufactured by Bosch). Put that sensor on and the thing would barely run. It was backfiring and doing all sorts of awful things. I thought I had broken the car. However, threw the old sensor back on and all was well. I've never been so mad. I honestly thought I had broken the car. I hated to hear backfiring in a PLASTIC intake manifold. Try cleaning the MAF sensor and the throttle body and putting the old sensor back on. I think a ton of stuff is junk now right out of the box.
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Yes, that's a good idea to try and clean the MAF sensor first. CRC MAF cleaner works very well and you can get it at Autozone or AA. That may very well solve your issue.
My jeep takes any brand you throw at it, however my bmw MUST have oem. Some vehicles are like that unfortunately(price adds up for bmw lol)
Often non-OEM sensors are either inaccurate or don't last.
A few years ago I had to get a rebuilt Cardone MAF for my dad's Pontiac G6. It was the only sensor I could find that day. It is practically an automotive miracle that the sensor still works after 5 years and 40,000 miles of driving.
A few years ago I had to get a rebuilt Cardone MAF for my dad's Pontiac G6. It was the only sensor I could find that day. It is practically an automotive miracle that the sensor still works after 5 years and 40,000 miles of driving.
In my Nissan, Bosch was the OE supplier, so buying Bosch was OK. Beck/Arnley is still the reboxed OE part in this case, too.
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