Hi everyone new here with a couple questions. Has anyone ever used Marvel mystery oil in with their premixed fuel on a 2 stroke? It says it can be used but I wanted others thoughts on this. Also has anyone tried it in there transmission with wet clutches? I would like to add just maybe 1 oz to each the gas and transmission. But want to know if it will help anything. Thnx
Marvel Mystery Oil, in a 2 stroke..
- Thread starter Oneshot660
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I have used it in a 2 stroke 50cc scooter with no noticeable effect. I haven't used it in a tranny or wet clutch application.
Are you having a problem that you are are trying to fix?
Are you having a problem that you are are trying to fix?
What do you want to achive with that experiment?
Originally Posted By: Oneshot660
Hi everyone new here with a couple questions. Has anyone ever used Marvel mystery oil in with their premixed fuel on a 2 stroke? It says it can be used but I wanted others thoughts on this. Also has anyone tried it in there transmission with wet clutches? I would like to add just maybe 1 oz to each the gas and transmission. But want to know if it will help anything. Thnx
If you adjust the ratios so that your premix is still correct and the MMO goes in as an addition it could be ok, but if not you'll displace either fuel or oil which will affect power and protection and/or smoke levels
Hi everyone new here with a couple questions. Has anyone ever used Marvel mystery oil in with their premixed fuel on a 2 stroke? It says it can be used but I wanted others thoughts on this. Also has anyone tried it in there transmission with wet clutches? I would like to add just maybe 1 oz to each the gas and transmission. But want to know if it will help anything. Thnx
If you adjust the ratios so that your premix is still correct and the MMO goes in as an addition it could be ok, but if not you'll displace either fuel or oil which will affect power and protection and/or smoke levels
I have been using MMO for the last twenty five years in all my
four and two cycle engines,plus use it 365 days a year. I only
use 25 gallons of gas a year,and what i do is put 2 and a half
oz.of MMO in a 5 gallon can then fill with gas w/ ethanol, that
is all we have here.So far i have never had problems with fuel
lines or sticky valves like i hear so many people on the net talk
about.
Last week is was warm here and i started 4 2 cycle engines and 4
4 cycle engines without any problems. I do put the correct ratio
of oil in the 2 cycles even with the MMO. Gordon
four and two cycle engines,plus use it 365 days a year. I only
use 25 gallons of gas a year,and what i do is put 2 and a half
oz.of MMO in a 5 gallon can then fill with gas w/ ethanol, that
is all we have here.So far i have never had problems with fuel
lines or sticky valves like i hear so many people on the net talk
about.
Last week is was warm here and i started 4 2 cycle engines and 4
4 cycle engines without any problems. I do put the correct ratio
of oil in the 2 cycles even with the MMO. Gordon
Well all I am looking to do is clean the engine and transmission out a little.I bought an 06 blaster and did leakdown test and changed crankshaft seals. Put new transmission oil in and ran it for about 1 hour till I realized I put a little to much in. When I drained it ,it was dirty already so I was wondering if I could use MMO in to help clean it.And while I am at it might as well run through the tank a time or 2.Thnx everyone for the info.
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On the transmission, I'd just change it again on a fairly short cycle until it came clean. With the engine, I might get the piston on top dead center and pour in a bit of one of the 'carbon disolvers' to free up any stuck rings-good luck.
MMO in the gas of a two stroke really does not accomplish anything positive. Today's 2t oils FD and EG-D are very well engineered to keep things clean, reduce carbon and prevent piston ring sticking, while lubricating well under high temps and high stresses.
Most people are unaware that the area of significant wear on two stroke engines is directly above the exhaust port. The cylinder, rings and piston all wear the fastest in this location.
The trick to prevent wear in this area is significantly robust (that includes the need for high viscosity) oil that will not create excess carbon and cause ring sticking. MMO does not meet these requirements. It's a very thin oil that can dilute the capability of a good oil. And significant use of MMO absolutely will clog up exhaust ports, power valves and carbon up piston rings on the exhaust side in two stroke engines. Not to mention the risk of additional wear.
Most people are unaware that the area of significant wear on two stroke engines is directly above the exhaust port. The cylinder, rings and piston all wear the fastest in this location.
The trick to prevent wear in this area is significantly robust (that includes the need for high viscosity) oil that will not create excess carbon and cause ring sticking. MMO does not meet these requirements. It's a very thin oil that can dilute the capability of a good oil. And significant use of MMO absolutely will clog up exhaust ports, power valves and carbon up piston rings on the exhaust side in two stroke engines. Not to mention the risk of additional wear.
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There are times where a fuel lubricity additive is required on gasoline and diesel engines. Testing shows that MMO is a very poor lubricity additive in either fuel. In fact, some tests show negative results with MMO. HFRR (high frequency reciprocating rig) testing has demonstrated that MMO makes lubricity worse!
Two stroke oil, on the other hand, is an excellent lubricity additive. A 200 to 1 mix in a fuel with an HFRR of 650 will reduce the number to just over 470, a nice improvement. (lower is better)
Here is a quote from the test:
17)Marvel Mystery Oil
Gas, oil and Diesel fuel additive (NOT ULSD compliant, may damage 2007 and newer systems)
HFRR 678, 42 microns worse than baseline fuel.
Two stroke oil, on the other hand, is an excellent lubricity additive. A 200 to 1 mix in a fuel with an HFRR of 650 will reduce the number to just over 470, a nice improvement. (lower is better)
Here is a quote from the test:
17)Marvel Mystery Oil
Gas, oil and Diesel fuel additive (NOT ULSD compliant, may damage 2007 and newer systems)
HFRR 678, 42 microns worse than baseline fuel.
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I have been running Opti 2 in two cycle with MMO and have no smoke
and no carbon in a Homelite blower and a Echo string trimmer for
over 25 years with out even putting fuel lines on them. Had trouble
with the trimmer, pulled the muffler and piston being viewed from
exhaust port had no varnish,just bright aluminum. Can't say it was
from oil or Opti 2. The trouble with the trimmer was no fire, called
dealer and gave hime the model and s/n and he just laughed, and said
it was so old they don't make that part anymore. Gordon
and no carbon in a Homelite blower and a Echo string trimmer for
over 25 years with out even putting fuel lines on them. Had trouble
with the trimmer, pulled the muffler and piston being viewed from
exhaust port had no varnish,just bright aluminum. Can't say it was
from oil or Opti 2. The trouble with the trimmer was no fire, called
dealer and gave hime the model and s/n and he just laughed, and said
it was so old they don't make that part anymore. Gordon
Thnx everyone. I am new to 2 strokes aswell, I always ran 4 stroke atv's. So I am trying to get opinions on what oils to run and how good they are verses other brands. I am currently running 32:1 ratio with bel ray. Also the blaster seems to have a little tick noise. So thought it might be a sticking valve.
"Sticking valve"? Not sure I follow? Are you referring to YPVS because I didn't those engines were so equipped... Correct me if I'm wrong.
John.
John.
Originally Posted By: Reg# 43897
"Sticking valve"? Not sure I follow? Are you referring to YPVS because I didn't those engines were so equipped... Correct me if I'm wrong.
John.
Haha, see I told you I was new to 2 strokes. Just looked it up and your right, no valves. Well not sure what is making the noise.
"Sticking valve"? Not sure I follow? Are you referring to YPVS because I didn't those engines were so equipped... Correct me if I'm wrong.
John.
Haha, see I told you I was new to 2 strokes. Just looked it up and your right, no valves. Well not sure what is making the noise.
Without being able to diagnose the noise, I can't say for sure. However, that is an air cooled, small bore 2 stroke, without power valves. With a stock piston and rings, any wear will lead to audible piston rattle, amplified by the fins. It's quite normal. They are only silent and rattle free for the first few hours.
Aftermarket pistons such as a Wiseco often use more generous piston to wall clearance and tend to always rattle at idle and lower RPM's.
Just a guess though.
A broken or extremely worn piston ring will catch in the ports and make a loud ticking sound. Generally, by that time, it's running quite poorly.
Aftermarket pistons such as a Wiseco often use more generous piston to wall clearance and tend to always rattle at idle and lower RPM's.
Just a guess though.
A broken or extremely worn piston ring will catch in the ports and make a loud ticking sound. Generally, by that time, it's running quite poorly.
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Well I did a compression test just middle of last week and it showed around 125 psi, I looked it up and from what I found that is still pretty good. Maybe I am just to paranoid. And it is normal.
Originally Posted By: Oneshot660
Well I did a compression test just middle of last week and it showed around 125 psi, I looked it up and from what I found that is still pretty good. Maybe I am just to paranoid. And it is normal.
It's my guess it's 100% normal, and yes, that's normal compression for a blaster.
If you are really concerned, post a youtube video of the noise and I'll listen.
Well I did a compression test just middle of last week and it showed around 125 psi, I looked it up and from what I found that is still pretty good. Maybe I am just to paranoid. And it is normal.
It's my guess it's 100% normal, and yes, that's normal compression for a blaster.
If you are really concerned, post a youtube video of the noise and I'll listen.
I had one of these when I was younger, they are a noisy rattly motor but they hold up really well and are pretty bulletproof. Normal sounds for these are a bit like a rod knock at higher RPM, and they vibrate pretty good. The biggest failure point is the oil injection pump, I marked the oil bottle and checked it each ride to make sure it was still pumping oil. They were set rather loose and pumped quite a bit, something in the 20-30:1 range.
The motor itself is dead simple to rebuild, an air cooled two stroke is about as easy as they get to replace the piston and rings, motor can stay in the frame. There are a lot of aftermarket parts out there to make more power as well.
The motor itself is dead simple to rebuild, an air cooled two stroke is about as easy as they get to replace the piston and rings, motor can stay in the frame. There are a lot of aftermarket parts out there to make more power as well.
Originally Posted By: ironman_gq
I had one of these when I was younger, they are a noisy rattly motor but they hold up really well and are pretty bulletproof. Normal sounds for these are a bit like a rod knock at higher RPM, and they vibrate pretty good. The biggest failure point is the oil injection pump, I marked the oil bottle and checked it each ride to make sure it was still pumping oil. They were set rather loose and pumped quite a bit, something in the 20-30:1 range.
The motor itself is dead simple to rebuild, an air cooled two stroke is about as easy as they get to replace the piston and rings, motor can stay in the frame. There are a lot of aftermarket parts out there to make more power as well.
Thnx, I deleted oil injection as I heard some bad stories about them. Mixing 32:1 with bel ray now.
I had one of these when I was younger, they are a noisy rattly motor but they hold up really well and are pretty bulletproof. Normal sounds for these are a bit like a rod knock at higher RPM, and they vibrate pretty good. The biggest failure point is the oil injection pump, I marked the oil bottle and checked it each ride to make sure it was still pumping oil. They were set rather loose and pumped quite a bit, something in the 20-30:1 range.
The motor itself is dead simple to rebuild, an air cooled two stroke is about as easy as they get to replace the piston and rings, motor can stay in the frame. There are a lot of aftermarket parts out there to make more power as well.
Thnx, I deleted oil injection as I heard some bad stories about them. Mixing 32:1 with bel ray now.
Originally Posted By: Oneshot660
Well I did a compression test just middle of last week and it showed around 125 psi, I looked it up and from what I found that is still pretty good. Maybe I am just to paranoid. And it is normal.
Maybe its CVT produce that "thick" sound at idle....just CVT parts rattling
Well I did a compression test just middle of last week and it showed around 125 psi, I looked it up and from what I found that is still pretty good. Maybe I am just to paranoid. And it is normal.
Maybe its CVT produce that "thick" sound at idle....just CVT parts rattling
The blaster uses a motorcycle style engine with clutch and left foot shifter, manual transmission.
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